Mike

Create a new map, and start from the beginning. Read the online manuals if you not sure on how to do this. I had mine idling pretty much immediately when I did this. much more trouble to use someone elses map completely as you dont know what they might have done differently, (however insignificant it might seem) Also, maybe check that you injectors are the size they're supposed to be, take it to a fuel injectionion specialist and get them to do a flow rate on them. Some I brought from TM were half the rate they were supposed to be.

+1, no offence here but could understand if some do. However - how far do we go with PC-ness? As others have said if we ban r aped then we should probably ban murdered or killed, which according to our courts is a worse crime. What about smashed- maybe the woman from the rugby on sat night would be offended if we started using that? Also, "my car was significantly faster than the other car" doesn't quite have the same ring to it as other more creative descriptions

Get yourself a wiring diagram if you haven't already and check to see what triggers the starter, you might find the ecu doesn't have anything to do with it and you've just left a wire off somewhere. Click suggests solenoid is engaging which should trigger the relay, check the main power wire? Only issue I can see TPS causing is if you go into flood clear mode, but it would still be cranking if that was the case. Also, are you planning on changing the plugs? going 1 or 2 colder wouldn't be a bad idea

was easier than flipping the shade up and down all the time, didnt really think about it at the time

+1 For auto helmets, before I had one I once spent the day tacking stuff together so was shutting my eyes the whole time, went home with sunburnt eyelids, not cool at all.

I'll still have to do that obviously, but was still curious about the check engine light, I've heard mention of it on other vehicles too, but haven't driven any vehicles here where I've noticed it.

Nice, good time to put this up, my cars just developed an intermittent mis-fire, driving me nuts. Semi-related question: The info I've read says I can check fault codes by shorting some pins in the diagnostic port, by doing this any codes will flash on the "check engine light". I can't see the check engine light, is this something like a blown bulb or only something for US spec cars (all info from US sources). I think I read the engine must be fault free for there emission testing? (which we dont have, elimating need for check light?)

I've just done both on the olds E36, I'm sure I ddn't pay anywhere near $350 an arm, closer to $130 I think, check with Gavin @ Euro Italian anyway, it wasn't worth the hassle of pressing the ball in and out anyway

springs and shocks first, cars with bigger rims that aren't lowered look a bit funky, well worse than a lowered car with little wheels anyway

I couldn't tick anything - I miss the e30 FWD Ford FTL

damn engineers just showin off when you going to start fabbing up your own suspension arms for optimum geometry huh? amateur. seriously good sh*t, thing will handle like a bloody go-kart, mine was impressive enough with soft-ish springs and standard swaybars

M52B28 is the right choice, its a more modern motor with better everything than the M20

AMI haven't given me any grief, I had the E30 turbo insured with them, that had a sh*t load of modifications

wrong way round. If I was in the market for e36 M3 i'd be going after the sedan version, cooler and more practical. E30's can look good either, but coupes look that little bit better. I reckon 4 door for E46 too, unless we talking M3, dont think they would work as a 4 door.

Nice dude, post up here or PM if you have any issues with getting it to run on the MS, was a while ago since I got mine going but still might be able to help you out

^Jesus, that much? I'm still sure we only did 90Nm. Not gonna argue with TIS though, are bolts torqued higher than nuts for any reason? Obviously the majority of our cars had nuts, Glenn, I'm guessing most of your cars are fitted with bolts? yip, bentley has 100 +/- 10 Nm. where'd you get that info from? I thought 90 ft/lbs was actually higher than 120 Nm, which is why I first questioned it. I'm worried I've been doing wheels too loose now

turbo's really dont like running without them, my setup made a hell of a noise before I plumbed one in. That air charge ha got to go somewhere when it hits the throttle plate, much better to have a skank whistle than have it going backwards out the turbo

IAT is used to work out the mass of air in the cylinder, you will need it. - also worth saying it is used to adjust timing as well though. Who you getting all the MS bits off? I used DIYautotune, they were awesome.

I worked at a tyre shop a while ago and thats how we always did them too. Glenn - you sure you didnt mean 90Nm, 90 ft lbs is a sh*t load?

Post more info, what size tyres also depends on rim width and offset. As a general rule you can't really go wrong with something like a 205/50, though really you can fit anything from a 205/45 to 225/45 and sizes in between.

meaningless dribble removed and thread locked. Experiences with various firms are welcome. However, if you have a real issue with a firm take it up with them before you post it here.

That will be M42 too wont it? Edit: actually only looks like M40, must have only been the states that got M42 in the cabbie

could it be re-programmed if there was a small difference in programming between auto and manual?

I'm on the Telstra plan, $20 a month, which includes $500 phone, 500txts and anytime calling costs 29c/min. I like the flexibility of it - I dont feel like I have to make calls to get my money's worth, and if I do make a few calls 29c/min is pretty affordable. I just got so sick of txting when trying to organise something, still send a few each month though.

loving the question from trademe "know it all's" that are wrong also