Mike

http://www.turbochargingdynamics.com/subca...2-Injectors.php I'm pretty sure BMW are pretty universal through the models, so those should be ok. People have also used Ford ones before as they use bosch injectors too (or same size), so maybe could be worth looking at some from an XR6 turbo. short of the 6 cyl M3's i doubt you'll find any worthwhile from BMW. even the M3 or XR6 ones wont give you much breathing room if you get silly with boost. Google can find you some great calculators to help with this sort of thing

before you buy something you dont need; why do you think you need one? and what sort were you after exactly? also, unless you go wideband an air/fuel gauge is pretty much useless. "rich" on a narrow band gauge is no where near rich enough for most turbo setups

why not call a tyre shop? would imagine around $80

what was the ratio on your fuel pressure regulator? was your static pressure high enough also? 3.5bar is quite high for stock. Most people have reasonable luck with them, chances are you got the wrong one or it wasn't setup properly

standard timing will probably be ok at that sort of boost, the issue is the fuel tuning. Wont hurt to put some colder plugs in though. If the 320i and 325i have the same injectors they probably have the same computer and MAF. The MAF knows how much air is going in, (in stock form) regardless of engine size so can put the right amount of fuel in. I'm not so sure about the M50 but on older engines like the M20/M10 you can use a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to inject more fuel, nowhere near perfect but can work with some experimentation. Problem is by the time you're done mucking around you've often spent a similar amount to what a link would cost, and its just adequate. then you'll find 8psi is pretty boring and want to upgrade. As riley said, get a Link and be done with it.

generally shaving the head or block, or a different thickness gasket will change the camshaft timing in an overhead cam engine, can be corrected with an adjustable cam pulley. not normally a big deal but something to consider anyway if you go that route. BTW I'm not sure how the vanos all ties in with that, and whether it could be set to match the new height?

what part of the front struts do you need. I have 45mm housings only I dont want very much for.

No worries Luke, hopefully it will be alright like that I'd take a look at what other people have done, even 9:1 cr shouldn't cause too many issues on a modern-ish motor like the M50. what is stock c/r? thicker head gaskets etc can muck up cam timing and cause it too be too sluggish off boost. higher cr also requires less boost to make power, just need to make sure you have a good tune as it is easier to cause damage if you get it wrong with high comp and boost. if you wanted to do a nice build with high boost just get new pistons as chances are they'd need replacing anyway once boost got that high that compression was an issue

is the oil/bearing system gonna be ok with the turbo on an angle like that? From memory anything more than 15 degrees is getting a bit suss. manufacturer should have a max spec for that

some dude from iceland posted it up on R3V

greatness... ps: I dont care if its been posted. its repost worthy anyway

Thats what i was thinking of doing, as I'm due for alignment also. lower ride height will also be a better match for most of our cars

the 5 series would use more gas as they are heavier. the 320i is just thirsty, probably due to the fact you have to drive it harder than a 325 to go anywhere. I'd go 325i if you could, good one is hard to find though. otherwise 318i is what you want.

huh? pretty sure they only move it forward, track wont change, not by a noticable amount anyway. Jimmy, quick a google for castor will explain it pretty well, generally you get greater straight line stability at the expense of more steering effort. dynamic camber is also increased (more camber when the wheel is turned). My car is 60mm lower at the front and camber is at 1.6 degrees, not an issue. last wheel alingment my rear camber was 2 degrees and the wear is still too much on the inside, probably due to driving in chch city with no corners to wear evenly. Just go with factory settings for toe. Plenty of options for bushings, you cant go wrong with OEM M3, but other options are powerflex, treehouse racing, or AKG. Good to see someone asking how the modifications will affect their car. edit: wheel alignment specs should all be on their computer, castor will be out of spec with the M3 bushings, just explain to them before why it is. as long as its the same both sides its all good.

this is probably the best option at the moment: http://www.productwiki.com/philips-np2500/ just not sure on how price/availability in NZ yet. If that had a built in hard-drive it would be perfect

Bit out of the price range. They also have everything else setup so seems a bit of a waste. PS3 works ok-ish as a client and I reckon is pretty easy as a music player to use but still has the hassle of needing to turn the telly on. I think if I went that route I might as well run an old PC with the telly as a screen Looking to spend about $1K on the amp and same again on the player, or $2K for a combined system. Could convince to spend a little more if they had to Something like an iPod/MP3 in a dock could work, just be nicer if the screen was a little larger. I like what this does: http://www.easternhifi.co.nz/default,844.sm very nice how it will pull album info off the net, ditch the built-in amp and speakers and its getting closer to what I'm after

On a bit of a mission for the olds to find a decent digital music setup. Bit of interest in the LCD vs Plasma thread so thought might find the answer here. Whatever we go with needs to be easy to use and read (large-ish screen), reliable, neat, and not cost a bundle. Doesn't really need a huge amount of features as chances are they wont get used. ie I dont want to setup a pc down there, its a hassle to turn on each time and just isn't an elegant solution. I've been looking at network audio receivers but they seem pretty expensive for what they are. This means that all the music has to be loaded onto the PC, but IMO is the easiest way to do it to get all the album info and art. Also means that other devices can get music off the home pc, or the receiver can pull music off any other pc on the network Whats out there in terms of standalone players? Ie something with a hard-drive that can either rip music off a CD or load it on via USB? Then it just plugs into the amp. The home theatre receiver will probably also get an upgrade soon so are there any receivers out there with that sort of feature built in? The house is already wired for speakers so dosn't need multi-room or anything like that. Cheers

Those comments weren't directed at anyone in particular, just saying if you aren't capable of soldering up an MS I think you maybe struggling with installing any ECU. My MS gear was all landed for around $800 back in 2006. Unassembled V3.0, LC1, stim, and a few sensors and sockets. Link was still around $1300 but needed LC-1 and a few other bits still. IMO, if you want MS build it yourself and save a few bucks. DIYautotune have awesome customer support. Anyone considering an assembled MS just buy a Link for all the reasons already mentioned. cheap(ish), and plenty of real world local support. I'll take your word on the M42, though still very impressed.

flew over to melbourne to see them last feb when they were in aussie, going to chch this time to see them again. Way younger crowd than you would expect

preF/L 325i is motronic 1.1 preF/L 320i is Ljet. All F/L 320i and 325i are motronic 1.3

along with: seats steering wheels suspension gear knob rims that steering wheel is just the modern day equivalent. still cool though.

just remember you're trying to make power, not boost. lower the c/r was one of the worst things i did with mine. killed off boost performance too much (running 12psi) As for Link vs MS: That MS price includes an LC-1 (you still need one to tune a link) and its all assembled. You dont need the stim if its all assembled. Also, why buy assembled? if you cant solder it up I doubt you have the capabilities to install and tune. just pay the $3.5k and go link. That said, the $NZ vs US has made MS a whole lot less affordable now, a 2nd hand link could easily be the best bang for buck out there. BTW; Conrod's math is not bullshit. 300whp @ 16psi is very impressive from a stock M42. end of story.

so how is this different to the m-tec add-ons that came on the e30's etc?

Modifying cars is not a cheap game. If you simply want a fast car just buy one, not worth building one. I'd say most of the people on here with turbo' or motor swaps do it because they like playing with cars or wanted something different (or just got too far in before they realised what they wanted)

^ Cut the text speak please. You've got a keyboard so use it.