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Mike

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Everything posted by Mike

  1. Mike

    Quad Bikes

    Mobile chicanes...
  2. I was on the motosoc committee last year, I still get the emails and that may have been the last one for a while. You at canterbury uni? They'll be running some pretty good events this year, any one at canterbury uni should join up, not sure on their position for non-students, might be ok though.
  3. Mike

    Rampant Phase III

    nice work man, vids?
  4. I'd figure on at least 35lb or 360cc. Thats good for 300hp @ fly with 90% duty cycle. Assume 10psi boost, with the motor in N/A form making 180hp and thats pretty close to your 300hp. I'd get slightly larger if it were me, just allows for a bit more power gains if you get bored without having to change injectors and retune. Not sure what the stock pump is good for, but you definitely don't need to change FPR, that's what MS is for. Also - if you get the right MS and set it up right you can run high or low impedence injectors, makes finding some that will work much easier.
  5. no worries. if that falls through let me know and you can have them for $50
  6. I have some. not sure what they're worth. how does $60 for the pair sound?
  7. Mike

    1990 318iS Turbo

    mine was still pretty good on gas too if I behaved
  8. Mike

    Rampant Phase III

    other earth strap might go to the head? lots of sensors/grounds on there. Pretty sure that I have one to the head and one to the block
  9. ^ Take his advice. I had one break off in the head. Major PITA
  10. put a nut on a few threads on and weld it - You'll need lots of heat to make sure it really fuses with the stud. The heat also helps to break the seal. I got a very stubborn stud on the turbo out this way.
  11. I can believe that, only on WOT though. surely the AFM or MAF will measure any additional airflow and adjust fuel accordingly (on part-throttle)?
  12. can you explain why that is?
  13. we get posts like this all the time, unless you got a bit of cash to throw at it you're not going to get bugger all from it, even then playing with the 2.0 is just pointless. A nice set of headers and exhaust is about it, worth maybe 10hp tops. Why don't you want to put the 2.5 in? you can probably pick one up cheaper than a performance exhaust system.
  14. 700km at the moment, mostly in one car
  15. He's a member on here, I'm pretty sure he's using a link to control it. Think he just put too much boost through the stock motor and that why the HG popped.
  16. You sure? I could definitely clear 3" on the M10, and wouldn't have thought they (M50) were that much wider?
  17. Very nice I know what you mean, would have said the same thing about my e30. I was looking at e39's too, only decided against it as I probably wont be around long enough to justify buying something decent.
  18. Mike

    WTB:sub-box

    I pulled on out from the e30, can't remember waht size though sorry, can measure it up tomorrow. I had it sealed up against the rear firewall with some foam and coach bolts to hold it there. Might be a bit of a mission to get it up north though. http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=8920
  19. http://www.akgmotorsport.com/e30products.html#bushings or bmw2002.com
  20. Mike

    Best job in the world

    or Top Gear presenter?
  21. http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=20961
  22. pull the head unit apart and cut the wire that flips the head?
  23. I'd try re-wiring it so that the head unit goes straight to the front speakers. if its still not right then I'd say the headunit itself is stuffed, so time for a new one.
  24. There is a minimum post count before you can create a new thread in this forum. You can still reply to other peoples threads if there is something you would like to buy. This is to stop spammers, scammers and retailers from signing up just to sell their crap. Please post a price and photos for any items that you have for sale. "Offers" isn't good enough. If you want to get the best price for your item just start high and work down. Your much more likely to sell something when people know how much you're after. And it saves people making stupid offers cluttering up your thread. As a general rule please post photos of the item for sale. Especially items like wheels and tyres, bodykits, vehicles etc. If its items like shocks, springs or other parts where its difficult to judge condition the photo doesn't have to be the exact item, you can use a similar item just so there is no confusion over what your selling. Its also an idea to provide as many details as possible: Age, distance travelled, condition, any faults, colour, relevant history, transmission, options, etc These rules make it much more transparent for people looking to buy, and you're more likely to sell your item. At a minimum your for sale thread requires: * A clear photo of the item being sold * A price, (''offers'' isn't good enough) however $2000 or near offer is fine * A location of where the item is being sold from EG Wellington All threads that dont adhere to these rules WILL be removed without warning or explanation.
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