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Everything posted by Mike
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^ as jonno has said ideal offset depends very much on the width of the wheel. thats why offsets can cause so much confusion. if the wheels you were comparing are the same width then that is a valid statement, otherwise its a bit meaningless. Can people please give wheel widths when talking any offset info, it could save so many misunderstandings Cheers
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have a look at mine, gimme a PM if you've got any questions http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=8958 I used GM for IAT, but kept the stock BMW one for coolant. No air flow sensor is needed as Megasquirt used manifold pressure. I'm using a LC-1 wideband, makes the majority of fuel tuning very simple. Bigger injectors will also be needed. As for a turbo take a look at a Holset HX35 or even HX40, quite a few on ebay.
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I'm In Disbelief about this rear suspensoion
Mike replied to tibbs.james's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
Sounds like something is loose, either top diff bolts or maybe around the side plates where the subframe mounts to. As you've had all that out it might pay to recheck how tight all that is. -
I was running a 2.25 on my 318i when it was N/A, reasonable improvement over stock from memory, nice noise (for a 4 cyl) too, quiet enough when cruising but louder when you floored. Can't see any reason why 2.25 wouldn't be great for a 320i
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interested in a swap + bit of cash my way for a 3.64 med case, sweet for a M20B25.
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dyno's been on the cards for ages, never got round to it as theres always something else I want to do. I'm guessing its around 170/180hp at the crank, knowing the injector size and that they're pretty much maxed. Ollie, I'm hoping its a hose or clamp too. A pressure test should find it without too much drama. Once I get the coolant leak and exhaust sorted I'll probably just leave the thing alone until the end of the year, Uni's gonna be pretty busy and everything else I want to do is out of my budget until I finish at the end of the year.
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'Nutha Update: Brake upgrade is almost done, brackets and rotors are all ready to go on. just need to get hold of the caliper seal kits. Have also upgraded to bilsteins all round and 51mm front struts. Also put some bigger injectors in, had them cleaned and flow tested only to find that they're not as big as I was told, but they're still a bit bigger than what I head in there. 12psi boost is pretty much maxxing them out now, which is about a safe limit for the nissan turbo anyway so will keep it like this for a while. Pulls quite nicely but I couldn't finish the proper tune becuase of the few problems below. Megasquirt has been running pretty well, had a few issues with logging but using a serial cable instead of USB seems to have solved it. Still need to sort the accell/decell but about from that everything else is going right. Time for bad news, while I was tuning it for the new injectors my exhaust leak came back. I'd gone 5 months without any trouble so I'd hoped i'd fixed it but guess not. And it gets worse, I've also got a leak in the cooling system, only happens when the things gets hot. I've had quick look but can't see where it is yet, chances are its either a hose or (worse) somethings split in the radiator. I've been needing to upgrade the radiator anyway, but this just comes at a bad time. The car wasn't overheated, something just finally gave out.
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WTB E30 320i ABS halfshafts, or ABS 325 diff and halfshafts
Mike replied to tibbs.james's topic in Want to buy
can't help on the halfshafts but I'm pretty sure you wont need a new diff. I swapped a med case in place of a small case and it bolted right in. -
I know of several young drivers that have been caught out in the wet with e30's, you get used to them though. single spinners are a pain as they mostly just spin the inner wheel but every so often the whole rear end will let go. thats a hell of a difference over that distance. I haven't done the aux to ruapheu in a while but how much would the elevation changes affect things? - with wellington to the mountains theres a few steady climbs that eat the gas, obviously can cruise down them on the way back down. as for how I drive the thing- lets just say I didn't exactly go turbo for better economy.
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I can't give you a ball park price on a pro job but DIY would be around $150 for a headset plus a bit more for things like oil and coolant if you replaced those too. (might pay to get the head checked while its off too) M10 is a pretty simple motor and theres nothing that tricky about doing a headgasket on one. Might pay to find out why it blew in the first place? just old age or cooling problems, etc?
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I hear ya. a landline and $10 text does me fine.
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sh*t, might have to send a cv off to the BBC- I'll happily take their jobs
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agreed. i also think that when someone says "its got high km's" its also relative. In the case of e30's id expect most to be around the 200k mark or higher, so one would have to be around the 300K before i'd consider it to be high kms. something like e46's though then it might only be 150k for it to be considered high mileage.
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I had this happen to me, major PITA. does you car have a sunroof? cause of mine turned out to be rusted rear sunroof drain, rusted so bad the hose had come away completely. That seal around it doesn't do sh*t to seal the water out, so when it rained the water came through my headlining and onto the carpet. to fix it I had to remove the headlining and make up a new corner piece with an attachment for the drain tube and weld it all in. Its kind of hard to describe unless you've pulled the headling down and had a look. Theres a bit of info round on here and e30zone with info on where the drains are and how to clear them, I can't remember where they are but a searh should dig them up.
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I already have the e28 ones apart and cleaned up, only need the clip and new seals. As well as that I've already got the pads for them, plus brackets and rotors machined up. changing calipers now is going to be a big waste of time and money, the e28 ones are already much bigger than the e30 jobs
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whats the offset on the mags tim? as glenn said a 225/45 is sweet as well, but not so many manufacturers make that size, and may be a difficult fit depending on the offset, between ET20 and 25 should see you right though. not gonna make a huge amount of difference really whether you go 215 or 225 really
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Hi guys, am after the little metal clip that goes between the caliper and carrier. #7 in this pic: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=34&fg=05 part # matches across most E28 or E24. I'm also after a seal kit for the same caliper (e28 535i). I've tried one shop down here but their kit is nothing like the old seals I pulled out. Its possible I've got a different caliper to what I was told to was but from the numbers I can make out on the caliper they look to match the ETK. I'll phone around some more shops tomorrow but thought I'd ask if anybody had sourced these before? edit- $tealer does have em but at $50+gst a side compared to aftermarket for $10 a side Mike
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I've just been on holidays for a few days, leave me alone. Actually I just re-read bravo's question, yeah tim said ZR but the K102 aren't Z rated tyres?
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where's he mention he wants Z rated tyres? thats just the style of rim he's on. Tim, what about a 215/45? fits in between a 205/45 and 205/50 an gives you a little wider tyre. few tyres made in 215/45 too.
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i did mention it in the post right above yours, but quicksilver is also on the money
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hey, just curious on why you've got it listed as an 86, when its a facelift model, the first of those were in 88? is that an immaculate conversion or just a typo?
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I'd be asking on one of the US forums, much more likely to find people there who've had dealings with them. 40% is about right for 6psi, (ignoring super-charger losses-maybe software makes up a bit of it?). I'd make sure that its going to be fine to run on our petrol, the yanks use a different rating system and I cant remember how the quality compares.
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looks to be a 325i, all of them are motronic.
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haha, gotta love it how everyone assumes it is a V8... newbs