Mike

only bolt on solution is 5 lug conversion using either e36 or e30 M3 parts. other wise its spend $$ on a BBK or make your own.

hear them all the time, particularly the civil build targets one from the mech guys. the arts student one is a favourite of ours tho, they just bite at even the slightest sound of someone mocking their degree.

doesn't sound too bad, though I'd definately ring round a few wreckers. If it is just the long block (ie head, block, and pan) it could get very expensive by the time you've brought intake and exhaust manifolds, alternator, PS pump, cooling system, mounts, ecu and loom to run the thing. That said, given that it a transplant and you want more power half that stuff I listed may end up being custom or from another motor anyway so could save you cash if you dont need it anyway. Are you planning to run stock ecu or something after-market. I'm not sure how the aftermarket ones deal with double vanos, then again the factory one could cause all sorts of dramas with different sensors and EWS etc.

long and short block is how complete the engine is. Short block will probably only be the block, crank, and piston assembly. Long block should have oil pan, head and all the valve train, and the block too. Long block may or may not include the other bits like manifolds and various pumps and alternator. Id just be after the most complete one you can find.

between the info on M20's and Ljet stuff from the early M10 318i there should be enough info in there for you.

missed the end bit off the link, heres the full address for the rep site http://www.bbslmreps.co.uk/index.swf

try these guys- forum sponsors: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=10481 as others have said, buy a new one. not worth f**king round with second hand ones.

the 250 4 strokes from the big 4 jap manufacturers do hold their value really well, chances are if you brought one you wouldn't lose any money if you brought and rode a second hand one while you were on your restricted period. That said I'd also consider some of the chinese ones coming in now or korean like hyosung, nothing wrong with them for learners. 2 stroke will be a lot more fun than 4 stroke, hell I run out of power on the dirt with a 250 4t and our speeds and are much lower than the road. while 2 strokes don't last as long they're much simpler to work on and have pretty much twice the power. The oil isn't a biggy either as most road bikes have seperate tanks for oil and petrol so you don't have to mix it. even if you do mix it they're not particularly picky about how much oil you run. sorry, back on topic

bit of both TBH, e28 is badass, and pretty significant as one of the first sports saloons and the first mainstream M car. I didn't vote for it but reckon it shouldn't get chucked under "Other" either.

where's the E28 M5? and the old M6 for that matter?

my understanding of the M20 oil cooler was that it is a good idea to run one if you've got it. Particularly if you give it sh*t the whole time or live in a warm climate. Not gonna be the end of the world if you don't run one, just make sure you cooling system is up to scratch, especially for the 2.5L. Is it possible your confusing the pressure relief valve for the thermostate, I'm pretty sure that the oil only starts flowing through the cooler when it gets hot enough. That motor looks damn cool, you running it as speed-density or Alpha-N? from the pic it looks like 3 of the vacuum lines are running to a MAP sensor but its hard to tell. You're not going to run into any problems with the injectors that far from the ports?

^ People going 90kph or whatever in the fast lane really gets me too. The worst is when 2 cars are going along side by side at the exact same speed

Have a good one princess

I wouldn't worry about the front TBH, just drive it hard and chances are it will wear evenly anyway

I had a few things sit on trademe with no interest. chuck them on $1 reserve and actually got more than my reserve on the first auctions.

you can run carbs as Blow-through or draw-through when using FI. But I imagine any decent M20 carb setup is going to cost almost as much as a Link, then you've got to tune the things anyway. you still need an ECU for ignition or stuff around with an MSD BTMs or chip the stock ecu depending on what sort it is. Just use a full ECU and be done with it.

IE camber and toe kit antony, pain to install but best solution. or theres eccentric bushings around but have an effect on both camber an toe, which makes alignments a bit tricky. Also known to lose adjustment easily.

pussies, you don't even need one hand on the bars. that can be used for carrying a stubby sorry, back OT

http://www.bbslmreps.co.uk/ sites down atm but was working the other day between 350 and 450 pounds depending on size (16 to 17's and different widths - 7 to 8)

^ yip, lower hutt's gearbox guru, in victoria st, just off wakefeild st from memory

I haven't decided whether to use my early 2.0L block or use 1.8L e30 block. I know the later ones are lighter but I've read different stories on how it affects the strength. The mounts also need modifying if i use the earlier one so i might just use an e30 one.

you can buy 4 door M3's. and a 2jz would go very nicely in an E36

thats a good price cam, I'm sure i paid $350 excluding freight for an MLS and ARP head stud set after loys of hunting around. IMO either go O-ring with stock HG or get standard height MLS, thicker gaskets lower CR too much and upset the cam timing a tad too. TCD sells M20 MLS at a precent decent price from memory. also agree on the head studs, M20 ARP set can be a little tricky to track down. Also have a look in yellow pages for gasket makers, few firms out there in NZ that will fo MLS gasket or copper. costs a little more than importing one when i checked with them

have a look here: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=15593 pretty much same deal as that thread. link should be fine if it can do vanos, some quick numbers suggest you'd be looking at over $6K easy to get it over here, replace the rubbish bits in that kit, get more bits made up (downpipe, exhaust, random mounts) ECU, and labour. if you were brave enough to put 10psi through it you might get 250hp at the crank.

I just went the Z3 1.9 route, bout $100 from the dealer. Plenty of different options for throw length and lever height if you use a factory lever. There's a picture about with 5 levers all lined up to compare the lengths below the fulcrum. Can't remember where I saw the thing though. Edit: easy enough on E30 to install, takes 30min or so, not sure on E36 If your syncs are getting a bit tired going too short isn't the best idea as shifting effort is increased.