Mike

thats it, i'm sold on the car now

try making something like that, I reckon it looks badass

might want to update your ad, theres no photos and as far as I can see no year either so no ones knows what they're buying

I assume your talking about the bolts with the internal hex head? if so try an male torx key. cant remember the size though sorry. Theres a few other little bolts that use them on an e30 so buying a set isnt a complete waste of time Note: There is 2 different calipers for the E30, Ate and Girling. I'm not sure if both made it over here. I think what I mentioned up there applies to the Ate caliper, i'm not familar with the Girling ones

gotta divide that figure by the final drive ratio, which should be 3.15, so closer to 570NM, which still seems very high so they might have done the run in 4th gear (1:1.24, 5th is 1:1 in an M3), meaning its closer to 460NM.

I would have just used a broom to prop it up but as long as you got it sorted.

to really make the point how about the f**kwit the made a noise complaint at 6.11pm about the kindy disco? who does that?

wheels kill it for me, too far in and too small. could easily be fixed though. its also missing the piece off the rear windscreen, pretty cool otherwise

I haven't used them but the guys on the US boards love them. I'm due for new rubber soon and looking at either these in a 225/45 or T1R in the same size. Let me know if you get them and what you think of them on an e30

I like the 16's mainly cos they look better unless the car is kitted. There are enough road and race rubber out there for e30's too (225/45/16) but you wont find much wider rubber than 225. Brakes arent such an issue, can still squeeze 308mm rotors under 16's which should be plenty. what sort of price we talking gus? perfect fitment or spacers ok?- that would open up your options to a lot of the jap wheels Works VX-SS look pretty cool

I've run mine on mine on both 15w40 and 20w50, pressure gets a little low with the extra heat so I switched to a 20w50, but as gus said for an old M10 oil is oil, any name brand should do the job fine.

I doubt it, I have standard height shocks for 60mm drop springs and the fronts are ok. rears only dropped 40mm but still captive

*shakes head*

the alloy welding involved is not the sort of thing you can pick up so easily. as Cam said welding alloy is very tricky, but if you have a friend that can weld but doesn't have the gear its an option.

haha I figured you'd have something to say about that post

Agreed, trying to weld a mild steel flange (assuming thats what your doing) to cast iron just isn't going to work. Go for an adapter like myself or 320guy showed you. Or save up and get a proper manifold. There aren't really any cheap ways about this. basically - do it right or do it again. (don't ask how I know)

They should be the right items, 60 will be the piston size. ie mine say 57/25 and have 57mm bore and 25mm rotors. and glenns right with the 540i rotor size too.

If you flip an M10 or M30 manifold they require sersious porting as the ports dont line up anymore. Also, i you turn the turbo around so the exhaust faces the right way then it looks like the turbo will hit the head. IF I were you I'd give up on the 745i one, more trouble than its worth i'd say. Instead have a look and see if an adapter is possible, like this one: http://store.666fabrication.com/m20-turbo-adapt.html or just get one of these: sex Otherwise look at getting a log style one made up, I reckon a very basic one could be done for around the $200 mark for materials (laser cut flanges and steam pipe). Easy to weld up too, if you can't weld you'll need to find mate who can - theres a few other things that will need to be welded (down pipe, exhaust, brackets etc) If those driven performance ones are good quality manifolds then $400 is a bloody steal, would like to know how thick the tube and flanges are tho. The M20B25 runs around 8.8 (need to check this) c/r which is fine for medium boost turbo setup. If your looking at making enough boost to warrant low comp pistons I'd be budgeting much more than $2500. Also, a supercharger generally requires the same supporting mods (ecu, clutch, fuel system, intake piping etc) as a turbo. If I were you I'd be making the choice based on power delivery, as there is not going be much cost difference between low boost setups.

listen to this guy. *SA got a 333i

some of them dont have shoes on- thats just not cricket.

Probably something from Iron Maiden - Powerslave or Rime of the Ancient Mariner. Priest was getting cranked lots - until they cancelled the goddam gig. changes all the time, sabbath, floyd, to rise against have all been played lots

IMO you'll need more tools, time and money to fix that engine than swapping the 2.3L one in. That said, your problem could be a very simple fix, lets hope so.

links down, for those who missed it what happened?

for $100 take that 2.3L motor and swap it in. yours sounds pretty sick. Assuming the2.3 is in good nick you'll probably spend more time and money fixxing yours. I'm trying to think of any differences between the preFL B20 and the B23 and none come to mind, should be a straight swap. can grab any bits you need of your B20. the 323i goes much better than the 320i.

The offset is a bit low but should still work. will probably need a bit of guard work to run much over a 205. Can't really get much better in terms of price/fitment/looks either.