Mike

haha, I worked with a Wayne King, poor bugger.

standard one will be fine for a 2.7.

Audi A3 1.8T rotors, need 1mm turning and 3 holes drilled. most E28 calipers are the same but 535i is designed for 25mm rotors, M3 and other e28 work with 22mm, i think?

Nice, did you design it or buy it off someone else? How big are those rotors? Any change to master cylinder? I'm pretty close to getting my brake upgrade on the car. I've got all the parts, the rotors are getting machined out at the moment. I've gone for 288x25 rotors, E28 535i calipers (similar to E30M3 but thicker), and a 750i MC (25.4mm). I considered using wilwood calipers but it was going to be a bit of a squeeze to fit them behind my wheels.

your welcome, play nice.

haha calm down, I just checked and you don't have any warnings, if you get one the blocks will red. You should get an explanation why if you get a warning.

f**king cool. 'nuf said.

I suggested changing to motronic as I know the L-jet cant be chipped. I don't know the stock code for plugs off the top of my head but any parts place should have a listing. In the NGK plug code the number represents the heat range, the higher the number the colder the plug. eg your stock plug might be BP5ES so you could try BP7ES. If you go to cold your plugs wont clean themselves, too hot and they can act as a source for preignition. I found going from a 5 to 7 worked for me. As for tuning fuel, how are you going to ensure you have the correct air fuel ratio? with RRFPR and bigger injectors its a bit hit and hope. You want to run much richer under boost, especially as you don't have ignition control, around 12.5:1 should be ok. I see three options here - 1) Invest in a wideband O2 sensor and controller along with appropriate gauge. 2) Do some dyno runs and get it measured then. This could get very expensive if you have to keep making adjustments. 3) Just chuck the bigger injectors and fuel reg in and see what happens. I started with option 3 and AFM after the turbo (wasn't thinking) and I got about 3 months at 10psi before the HG blew. I then went for option 1 and ECU, my A/F ratios are almost spot on. I suggested putting the AFM before the SC as I wouldn't want to speculate as to how the flap would react to extra pressure, it may open more or it could open less as it wont respond to the extra pressure.

LSD if you don't have one already

re-thread the nut on a couple of turns to protect the threads. you want to hit the side of the hole - the actual strut itself, not the tie-rod. use a lever to put some downward pressure on the rod and just whack the thing, I've never had this method fail me yet. Does the new rack come with rack end or do you have to swap those out too? They can be a pain to swap, there are proper rack end removal tools but I did mine with a large plumbers wrench.

I'd be careful when upgrading injectors as you'll be running rich when off boost. Have a look at my project thread for where I put my R32 GTST cooler. I take it from the RRFPR that you're not planning to run aftermarket engine management? Depending on boost levels you can probably get away with stock ignition timing, as your car will be L-jet you can always retard the base timing a few degrees if you start knocking. might pay to go to slightly colder plugs too. How are you planning on tuning the fuel? wideband O2 or just bodge it and go off things like plugs? One idea would be to convert to motronic management and then get a chip written to work with the larger injectors and could also retard the timing where needed. Is a bit of a hassle though, and costs could be getting near aftermarket gear. Are you planning to run the AFM before or after the supercharger- this will have an effect on how much air it measures. Good luck and keep us updated Mike

the offset must be around ET10 then? or spacers for some odd reason? I run 205/50 on a 16x7.5 and theres no rubbing at all, could probably go to a 225/45 with only a slight guard roll if anything. You should easily be able to run 215/40 on those rims without trouble if the offset is right (~ET25). I just don't see the point in running a smaller tyre for looks. If you want the streched look go hard or go home, 7.5" just isn't enough to do it properly. some deep dish 16x9 Your car though so whatever suits you, just my 2c. Everything else looks sweet, similar colour scheme to my car with the black wheels and polished lips, looks really nice with the tec2, I like how you've kept the chrome window trim too. Mike

very cool, only thing i would change is the tyres look too small, are they 205/40?

^ would be almost perfect for those with E30 M3 suspension, shame there's not too many of those around in NZ, I think the offset would be a little low for those with E36 gear. (wheel would sit out too far)

not RS but still look like a pretty good deal.

same reason i switched from 2 12's to a quality 10". The 10" actually has more grunt (power handling) than the 2 12"s combined anyway.

Good idea, would you want do basic rules or an more indepth guide specific to a chassis? Obviously what works on one chassis may not be ideal for another. I notice sometimes even the guys who know there sh*t are in disagreement as to whats ideal, cover different view points or get them to agree?

Hi luke, I thought I PM'd you about this? I made my myself manifold at a place I used to work, called Cycleworks - they mostly do motorbike stuff but are pretty handy general fabricators. No major updates sorry, brake and suspension upgrade is due to happen pretty soon, and I'm planning to switch to full ignition control too. I never seem to have either time or money spare (one if I'm lucky but not both)

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=153175397 chucking this up here on behalf of a mate to give him a bit more exposure. Just contact him through trademe if interested. Cheers Mike

I was impressed with the fusion powerplant series, I've chucked a set in the old mans truck and they go really well for a cheapish set of speakers. Quite large magnets though so you might be pushing it squeezing them into stock e30 locations, that said I squeezed 6.5" in there so you should be ok with 5.25" which is stock size.

theres the warning system and also your post count. only you and the mods can see your warning level.

yeah thats sounds right.

where'd you get that intercooler and kit from? trademe or ebay item? looks like a good size to hide behind the bumper

close, all 325i's use moronic. Other pre-fl cars used jetronic, then went to motronic for FL. Jetronic M20's have the dizzy on the side of the block, while Motronic 20's have it off the head.

nah pretty sure its german, felgen garage one, theres a few pics of it round on different rims, all look awesome.