Jibs05

So lets get this back into gear... buh dum tss... I've been working on getting this car road legal which meant going to different companies and requiring a LVV certificate for the modifications (engine, coilovers, exhaust). After getting said cert then I had to go to a vehicle testing station where they did an all over check on my car (shocks, tires, ball joints, seatbelts etc). Then only after that i can register it to drive on the road. Doesn't sound like much but it's taken me over a year, mainly because i'm a piece of sh*t and procrastinate alot. So in response to my own dimwitted self on issues that i should have thought about more and not just change things or throw money at it like a moron... things that were not working: 1) Crack in insulation in coil pack #4. just happened to start my car one night for no apparent reason and saw the spark jumping from the coil to the rocker cover. 2) Ecu/tune. Either the ecu or chip tune in my original ecu was kaka. Bought another NV ecu. 3) Vacuum leak at the PCV valve. Although I smoke tested 3-4 times, it wasn't enough to show this leak. The O-ring was brand new but i must've done something weird to cause it to not seat properly. Complementary to this I did install a fuel pressure gauge. The fuel pressure did come up fine, but i feel for the price and ease of installation its worth having that extra thing to help me with this car. It drives really well, but... it idles like sh*t. If i blip the throttle it will bring it right. I'm sure with more perseverance ill find out what it is. But luckily i've been getting seat time in my mate's E36 328i. He's helped me thick and thin with this car and lets me drive his car at the track. Legend. Here's a short video of said seat time, it's of my 3rd skid pan day at Hampton raceway. Its not exciting but its a start! https://youtu.be/J9cFvQp1wp0

price for exhaust manifolds?

I would say 3-4k is good for an m50 conversion. We have a similar starting base (e30 wise). I collected information and parts for about a year before actually embarking on my m50 journey. Dont be a retard like me and buy a m50b25 non vanos. Its nice and all if you have enough coin to run an aftermarket computer and all but for a 4k budget look for a vanos engine, parts are much more abundant. If you are into the whole driving your vehicle at track days etc don't bother with the factory clutch it will be kaka after a few days at the track (edit: we were at a skid pan day). If you are looking for a car that will out pull your mates honda you will need more than 2.5 liters to do it. consider a 2.8+. Or buy a 4.6 diff. The 320i diff will be good if it is really well looked after. So considering it probably isn't, get a medium case. Completed the actual swap in 1-2 months. getting the car road legal was another hurdle. Work involved is really straight forward. Hardest part was probably the exhaust manifold, which is quite simple. there are a few threads on BS that are quite detailed. Just read through and collect parts. Make a list, it helps.

Don't get me wrong its a nice car. The end of year festivities have destroyed my bank account. I would buy it, and drive that sick, old school ass back up to Auckland. Daily that sh*t. Ahhh dreams are free.... New page bump!

what diameter springs are the adjusters for?

I think someone has changed it around(may have been me or PO)! My temp gauge in my cluster reads right. I did the warm up and unplug the sensors test with no signs of change to the way it runs (rich, bouncing idle). But when i jump the o2 sensor wire on under the relay it idles much better (no hunting, and at 13.5 on the wide-band). But i still think it is in open loop, due to how it reacts when i "blip" the throttle. It would be nice to put the multi-meter across the black sensor i have in the car to see weather or not it is the right sensor. I see that the blue sensor for the DME is rated at 20 degrees where as the black(from e36/e34)/brown(from m20) is much much higher(roughly 200 degrees, don't quote me). Ill have to do more reading on the specs of the two sensors and their range of operation. Good thing its the weekend!!

but the question is, is it the black sensor one or blue sensor one? I'm betting my money on swapping the black sensor out for a blue one.

Yes so im going to swap the black (e36/e46 temp gauge) for a blue DME temp gauge if that makes sense?

Crunchy I passed by you once in my e30. You must've been in dreaming about something real special to not chase me in envy haha

so got home and went straight to the e30, and this is what i found i looked under the intake manifold and saw blue, so i thought to myself, well that is a blue temp sensor. Taking polleys advice I decided to venture further... Well f**k. I might be color blind but that looks black to me. I guess this threw me off You can see the E30, single pin, brown temp sensor here (for the cluster) so I'm guessing ill need to swap the black sensor out for a blue one?

Yup I had a feeling it was stuck in open loop because the wideband reads from 10-11. I jumped the heater wire for a short time and the afr changed to 13.5 steady. As polley said I need to check the wires and sensors to make sure I have them correct. Thanks again, ill check my sensors tonight and report back. Hopefully this will help fix my idling/driving issues.

Yup, so the brown temp sensor(from an m20) has a single pin, correct? Doesn't the m50 loom use a 2 pin temp sensor for the e36/e34 dash? Ill double check the wiring when I get home. Cheers!

I actually haven't been driving the car. Just ran it in and trying to start trouble shooting why it runs like sh*t! Haha. Yup the sensors are relatively cheap! Euroitalian doesn't stock it, called them yesterday after work. I have my diagnostic port all wired up just no code reader. Plus being pfl no engine check light. Can anyone confirm that I do have it the right way around? And that the blue sensor is for the engine temperature sensor for the dme?

Hi all, it has come to my attention after a lot of poking and testing that my o2 sensor heater doesn't switch on. (m50 nv). And some reading of various threads have said it relates to the DME engine temperature sensor(to tell it when to switch on). What does this sensor actually do? I've read that in can control timing, cold-start, o2 sensor(s) and diagnostics. Does it really have a part to play in all these things? Is there a way i can test if this sensor is faulty with a multimeter? PS/ I've done the fuel pump relay wire mod suggested on another forum. Cheers!

I dunno, my car failed cert stop test on hawks. Hence the upgrade to pagids.

I wonder if they take paypal? Because I work on an oil rig but my father needs a car asap.

I have pagid rs orange on mine. 299 inc gst from race brakes. Its what the cert man asked for... very expenny.

id say to get a better look to look from under the car. is there a cover under the radiator support? is it easily removable?

oh wow thanks! Probably do that today! Rather than starting a new thread ill update this one 1/11/2014 Hi all, put in some 21lb injector for my m50b30 stroker. Naturally it would hunt for idle because the tune isn't right(haven't been driving it, maybe one pull up the street then parked up). So I purchased a chip from Euro-tuning specifying my modifications, installed the chip, reinstalled the ECU and started it up. Waited until it was near operating temperature, but its still hunts for idle. Although it does run more consistent than before and less smoke out the exhaust. question is could my o2 or AFM be reading wrong(broken)? I honestly don't think the chip is bad, but then again, I don't know enough about chips to make that assumption. Here is a video of what is happening at the moment... you will see at the end of the video i look at some black liquid on the ground, it has the consistency of water but looks black. Is it because it has been parked for a while? (2-3 weeks) thanks for any help!

its a good thing i have solid engine mounts! haha

ohh! yup that's true! I don't think there would be much interest in making m50/260 gbox mounts (solid) would there? I made a set for mine.

Have a cert with a m50/g260 combo no problems

Hi! another e30 to the list of them growing in this forum! Manual conversion isn't too bad unless someone has been in there before and f**ked something up. I had to deal with a stripped top bolt. GL!

E30 FTW!

cool e30! manual? welcome!