Allanw

I had read on the interwebnet that the Vanos seals on the M54 are practically guaranteed to be poked if they haven't been replaced with the correct type (Beisan Vanos Seal Kits). This is where I got my seal kit from. I thought because our car has only 117K on it, thay ours wouldn't be too bad. Wrong. We had issues with the engine (M54B25) nearly stalling when riding the clutch to reverse, or trying to manouvre in carparks etc. It also would bunny hop on our drive if you touched the gas pedal at low speed when cold - you either had to go fast or let it idle. The cold idle hunted just a touch, and there was a slight hesitation when tapping the throttle. I'm not sure how different the symptoms would appear on an auto. The Vanos works by using oil pressure to alter the cam timing. The M54 has Vanos on both cams, and it's infintely variable (between two points).The cams are connected to the cam sprockets by a piston with a set of helical gears and a spline. The piston in the Vanos pushes on the cam piston which alters the position of the sprocket on the camshaft through a range of about 40 crankshaft degrees for the intake, and 25 degrees for the exhaust. The engine measures the cam angle and adjusts a pulse width modulation signal to the Vanos solenoids to push the Vanos pistons in or out. The Vanos pistons have two grooves, which have an O ring installed, covered by a teflon sealing ring. The O ring BMW uses is not suitable for the environment it's in - They get a flat spot on them, and go hard. Very hard! I removed mine this morning, expecting them to be not too bad considereing the car has only 117kms on it. I was quite surprised by how rooted they were! The first clue as to how poked they were, was that the intake piston moved of it own accord when I tilted the Vanos unit (The exhaust piston is spring loaded). Once I removed the covers that hold the pistons in, the pistons fell out without any force! Totally poked! With the covers off, I could move the pistons laterally and SEE the movement, as well as hear them tapping each side. When the old seals and O rings were removed, the O ring (behind the teflon seal) was so flat, it was about half as thick as it was wide - it would have started off round! They were also hard enough that I could fold them over and break the O ring rubber, and they no longer stretch. The outer teflon seal seems to show no signs of wear etc - just the O ring behind no longer provided the pressure and support required to keep a good seal. The same pistons with the new seals installed were actually VERY difficult to move by pushing them, once the new seals were on and resized in the bores. I spent about 4 hours doing it, but had to borrow a couple of tools during the procedure. The whole thing is quite easy, following the instructions from the Beisan website (I think he is a bit OCD too!). If you have an M54 (or probably anything with Vanos!) you probably need to do the seals. On other forums, people speak of Vanos seal failures at anything from about 30,000 kms up to whatever! After doing them, I've only driven about 10 kms. I'll take it for more driving over the weekend. Already, it's clearly smoother at idle, the bogging is almost disappeared and the hesitation when tapping the throttle is gone. I replaced nothing else during the procedure, so can't put it down to anything else. The paperwork with the seals suggests 300kms+ are required for the seals to bed in. I took a few pictures while doing it, but the Beisan website has super detailed procedures with all the pictures you need!

Yes. Thats where I got mine.

I have a very good excel version at home - does tyre size, diff ratio, gear ratios etc. You can set a shift point too, and it gives you a graph with the speed at every 1000 rpms, and the rpm drop at each gear change. It's been very handy for sorting ratios for the Subaru box to put in my VW If you want it emailed, PM your email address... I just realised it's locked though, so you can't mod it... but it's very handy :-)

Cheers! I'm hoping it will make a huge difference - the car is pretty quick for a "poxy" 2.5, but i ONLY wanted manual, so was limited for choices! My wife still stalls it sometimes, because it sort of bogs a bit as the load comes on. I think she only ever stalled her old Impreza once, the BMW has happened probably 15 or 20 times - it varies depending on engine temp etc. I've already done the Clutch Delay Valve delete, which smoothed out takeoffs and changes a bit. I just have to get a fan clutch spanner, but I think dad has one (we certainly had one for his E30 anyway). Thanks.

Dad still has the 325i, yes, a manual - He sold his run around car, so it's the shopping trolley now (well for the last 8 or ten years anyway!) - has nearly 220k on now, but looks far lower. He looking for a Ford Model A as a toy, now. Dunno what he'll do if the E30 dies though - probably fix it! I've got an E39 525i manual for the Mrs - sensible family car for our boy and another bubba coming in August. Might have to start looking for a loser mover after the third one eventually comes along and they're all a bit bigger... Even your avatar pic looks awesome, so the big ones will be MEAN! Was just looking at Z4 Coups for a guy at work today too! Cheers, Allan.

My M54B25 has gobs of torque, from about 1200 up it pulls ok. Theres a distinct increase at 3000 (probably somewhat related to the poked vanos seals). from what i've read, pretty much EVERY M54 has failed Vanos seals (unless they were replaced - and BMW used the old style seals in the replacement units which fail again!). I know mine has knackered ones - easy to stall, lurching when cold, uneven/hunting idle mostly when cold, trouble maintaing idle under laod (riding clutch reversing etc). The M54 vanos is infinitely variable between two points. where earlier versions had only two or three settings I think. The M54 is both cams too. I think it gives a better low end spread to the torque (not based on experience - never driven a comparable model, other than an auto jap 525i, which was dull in comparison). I'm hoping to change he Vanos seals over the weekend

Ha, Funny! I remember you and your Red 325i - It had some 5/6(?) spoke wheels on it - some motorsport option in the day?. Dad got his E30 (about 12 or 13 years ago) and I spoke to you way back then - must have been on some forum, but I think it was an overseas one (BMWE30.net or similar???). We got a Glacier Blue 325i SE - I seem to recal your was an SE, but auto?? Or was it Manual but not an SE? Red though, right? Z4 coupes are very nice! great proportions and not at all hairdresser-ish!

I don't know any specifics, to be honest. One thing I DO know, is make sure they are rated heavy enough for the car. I would assume the E39's would want at least a 95 or close to it. Higher load riatings tend to give less "squishy" ride as they are firmer sidewalled.

Genuine E39 Hella Xenon groupbuy About NZ$700 + shipping (could easily be another $200) I did a Halogen group buy, for $640 a pair, but the xenon were going to be 1800 a pair, including ballasts etc. The link above is a better deal, even once shipping is covered (the boxes are BIG though!) You'll get stung for GST and import duty etc though!

Same key, WAY cheaper: Milland. Mine was under $320 (E39 diamond key). Genuine key, cut to your chassis number. You can get a non-remote one cheaper too - but you can keep your old one as a spare anyway. There's a little procedure to program it to the car, but it's easy (check online, it took me 5 mins to do).

I saw a cast aluminium version of the factory ones..... somewhere... weren't cheap either! At least you'd never have to buy another!

The auto up/down can be programmed to work or not, dependant on which settings are laoded for that key. BMW or someone with the sftware can do it for you.

Whizz

It's what outboards have been doing for years! 175, 200, 225's are usually all the same displacement, just the cards and exhaust used to change. Now it ALL the same, and it's the ECU that does it. Neighbour owns a marine repair shop / dry dock etc. He's the Volvo Penta agent. He can upgrade your 200HP Volvo Penta to a 400HP Volvo Penta using his computer. VOlvo charges his a lot to do it via the software, and he passes it along to the customer. Expect it to be available soon - Service, power upgrade and a new rear badge... $14000

Doesn't really make sense... Maybe it was a beach tractor? I guess being such an early car, the may not have had the processes sorted properly yet... I ALWAYS avoid the first few years of a new model (never buy new either though).

Shame... it's done nearly 20K now. Does that mean it's just a horse?

You can get a key from BMW Germany, they cut and code them to suit your car. Takes a couple of weeks though. I've got a spare key on order from Paul at Milland.co.nz. It was more than $100 cheaper than the dealer, and comes from the same place (BMW Germany). You'll need some ID etc to prove ownership, but Paul will sort that out for you. Sounds like you'll want to order at least 2 keys You can get a full remote, and just a plain key if you want to save some $.

Awesome! I hope new BMW buyers continue to order manuals so we'll have something to buy when they get down to sensible prices. BMW 6's make the best noises ever Very nice looking car - It is quite impressive fuel economy from these things, considereing the weight and performance.

No kidding! It looks hard to get all those requirements in one place. The house prices down there are ridiculous!

MMMMMMMMM.... I tried desperately to get the Mrs keen on an E34 540i/6... She doesn't like them and doesn't "need" a V8. Who NEEDS a V8! It's a WANT! Anyway... had to settle for a E39 525i - at least it's manual though! Awesome car dude! keep it well looks after!

Clearly the "M" badge has been stolen off it's boot too! Bastards!

I see what you did there - got in quick before someone gave you a bollocking for not using a torque wrench Teeheehee.

Hmmm... not all USB to RS232 cables work with the software, it seems. A PCMCIA card adapter is more likely to work from What I hear, but it may be easier to load it onto a desktop which you can move close enough to the car, or borrow a laptop with a serial connector :-(

Just like everyone else

slooking smart!