Allanw

I'm sure you'd get away with cutting it out, and fitting some generic plastic trim, like a U shaped profile (classic cars used it on exposed spot weld seams on the interior usually). The flap of fabric behind your armrest it only held up with Velcro anyway, so should look factory enough.

Is anyone else interested? Only about 10 days to go, and payment MUST be received Feb 1st. These are Genuine Hella units, from Hella NZ. These are about the same price as crappy knockoff ones, but are OE Hella lights. PM me.

ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGH! Probox is probably the only thing worse than driving a Camry:

The oil needs to drain freely from turbos, or they tend to have issues.

Could be worse. At least it's not a Camry. It would look beter all one normal colour too. Black.

It'll lose ALL the cool things if they even enter production :-(

They can wait... low is cool ;-) Prolly will never get genuine Hellas at this price again! anyone else?

It is a very nice car ;-) Awesome to drive. I've fixed the Dash and MID pixels, just filled it with Castrol edge, done the diff, and have royal purple synchromax coming for the gearbox. Changed the steering whel trim to the satin silver too fitted genuine mudflaps so the road crud doesn't get flicked all over it (we're about 8kms along a country road). III have to keep it nice. We had kid2 on the way, and 3 will just baring fit - it will probably be Odyssey time then :-(

Does one rear corner sag more than the other when parked on the flat?

OK, E36 Celis are $800 a set, but are fugly chrome ones. Loom for fitting facelift lights into prefacelift car is $45 per car (1 required per pair of lights) Xenons are $1800 per pair, with ballasts and bulbs (not bad price really). Anyone who wants to reserve a pair of the E39 lights needs to PM me, it will only go ahead if we order 5 sets or more. I'm ordering one set, so only 4 sets to go. They will also have to be paid for before Feb 1st 2012. Remember that they will not arrive until late April, and the courier cost will need to be paid when I ship them out - I'll charge actual courier charges - I shouldn't think it would be more than $25 unless Rural delivery is required. Cheers,

Shaneg: These are clear indicators (with bulbs) Halogen (I will get a price for xenon though). nastnas: These are oem Hella lights, who don't make E36 angel eyes as far as I'm aware. I may be able to get stock E36 lights, but there would probably have to be 5 sets of them ordered too. I can ask, if there is more interest. mainframe: For the pre-facelift cars, there is an additional loom you'd need (or get creative with the soldering iron). Loom is $45 per car. These are the facelift style lights though - they do bolt in - just the wiring is different (hence the loom) Hella PDF details: 1LL 008 053-591 x1 DE®-H7/FF®-H7 headlight, left, with indicator light (clear lens), with headlight levelling actuator, with bulbs 1LL 008 053-601 x1 DE®-H7/FF®-H7 headlight, right, with indicator light (clear lens), with headlight levelling actuator, with bulbs Cheers

Hi All, just gauging interest in an E39 Facelift angel eye group buy. I can source Hella angel eye Halogen facelift E39 lights for $640 INC GST per set. I'm not making anything on these, and they are for forum members only (NO trademe sales etc!). Seems a very good price to me for genuine Hella, not cheap knockoffs. I'm awaiting a price on Xenons, in case anyone wants them, but they are quite a bit more, by the time you get ballasts etc. I'd have to buy 5 sets minimum, they'd need to be paid for early Feb (1st/2nd), and would arrive late April, to be shipped out (courier at your cost - probably $15 to $25) I wanted new lights, but didn't want to pay $950+gst from BNT! Yes these are for RHD cars too :-) Expressions of interest?

Where did you get them done? Do you know if they can do them still attached to the housing, for the facelift lights?

The "springs" are known to fail, as crud gets caught in them and wears holes etc. They aren't terribly cheap to replace, but they do last a long time.

Dad's E30 325i has cost him about 8K over the 14 odd years he's owned it. I think that's brilliant! He's a stickler for servcing (starter wouldn't go one time he tried, but worked second time, so he brought a new one because it worried him!) His previous Toyota cost him 1/2 that, but in only 4 years, and the Holden before that... Well, lets just say his next car will probably be another BMW!

At least if it's a singapore import, it's proper Euro spec. Plus it's the Jap ones which seem to have the disintegrating rubbers, seals and insulation padding. I'd worry more about them. NZ new always seems to fare better. From the reviews from UK etc that I read, the E38 is has more issues than the E39, but they may have been model specific issues. E38's seemed to have more gremlins, although I assume most of the componentry is the same anyway. I chose and E39 because of that (plus it was manual!). I think it is ones of those things that is likely to be more related to the actual cars, as opposed to the model in general. If the 740i has been meticulousy maintained, it's probably a reasonably safe bet.

There was a 750iL for sale up here a year or two ago, had 520K on it. Was ex-estate agent. My Bro in law drove it an reckoned you wouldn't know the milage on it without looking - it could have said 180K and you'd believe it. Of course he drives a Terrano, so he might have compared it to that. My Mrs ex-impreza had 320K on it and was in better nick than my E39 with 114K. Only broke down once, when the fuel pump failed - and even then, it only stopped coz I told her to turn it off! People have this hangup about milage, but it's the way it's been looked after that matters.

Yeah? Check this out... ;-)

Look up Wurth in the phone book (based in Hobill Ave manukau). They do bumper dye that panel beaters swear by. (I know a guy who did his shoes with it, lasted 3 years!)

yep, the ZX's we have here at work are wider - quite a lot wider. Nearly has as much space as my '84 VW! The narrow ones feel like you're crammed into a Bambina. There's probably 200mm difference, feels like more though.

From the online user manuals: (which are US based - don't some of their engine have iron blocks or liners or something?) Curb weight (with one person, ready for operation, full tank of fuel, options not included) 2000 e46 328i M52 Sedan manual: 1450Kg 2000 e39 528i M52 Sedan manual: 1585Kg 2001 e46 325i M54 Sedan manual: 1535Kg 2001 e39 525i M54 Sedan manual: 1565Kg I assume they use the same size "person" in the figures. The 2001 figures are interesting!

Yuo probably have a broken wire in the boot loom, where it's inside the gromett from the body to the lid - wire breakages are common-ish.

I just removed the Clutch Delay Valve from my E39. I can't believe the difference it makes! I thought it probably wouldn't be worth the effort, but felt enthused this morning. I have 2 neighbours with hoists at home, but did it in the garage with the factory jack and one axle stand anyway! The car used to to be difficult to reverse out of the garage because when trying to slip the clutch, it would engage more than you wanted, so you'd have to modulate it to keep the engine from stalling, or rev the engine higher like a Nana. The EFI would keep giving the engine a kick to stop it stalling. It sounded stupid! Also, the change from 1st to 2nd was always a bit lurchy and hard to keep smooth. Now, the clutch is perfectly smooth and predictable, it feels better and performs like you'd expect it should have always done. manouvering in tight spots is easy and smooth now, and it doesn't sound like you are continuously almost stalling. It took longer to get the car up and down than it did to remove the valve. There are write ups all over the interweb, but it basically involves (on E39's): Undo clutch hose backet clamp soft hose remove 9mm hard hose nut remove 14mm CDV from slave fit 9mm hard line nut into slave bend hard line slightly to fit bracket back onto stud, tighten. unclamp soft hose open bleeder on slave to let any bubbles out (I got the mrs to pump the pedal twice, to be sure, but NO bubbles anyway) (some models are done differently) If your car has one, I'd HIGHLY recommend removing it! Putting it back in only takes the same effort, but I'd be surprised if anyone ever put one back in! Cheers,

WHAAAAA? This one looks really tidy - has that other one even got a straight panel on it??? the bumpers aren't aligned, both front and rear valances are bent, the right rear 1/4 is ripply, the left side has dent/damage to both rub strips and probably both doors (one for definate), the upholstery is holed, and the dash has LOTS of BIG cracks. Prolly not a bad price though - manual 325i's don't come along every day. Makes this one look like a deal to me - shame it's Auto though :-( Dads got one like the blue one, but looks super tidy (he's had it for 12 or 13 years now). Those late E30's are great - they had all the bugs ironed out - no SI light issues and stuff like that.

Sweet! - no rush though! I got the other "goodies" :-) I suppose I should ask if you can help the OP, since I seem to have hijacked his thread... Oops!