musccoo

Sorry to thread jack, but has anyone got one of these master cylinders for sale?

Ok might give them a call see what they can do. On a side note, put poly transmission mounts in last weekend, cabin sounds hella race car

Got any brand recommendations?don't want some heavy as on off thing.. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Stock 3 bar fuel pressure regulator. Took out when I was figuring out fuel issues and put in a brand new one only to find out it was a problem with my pump so this guy is working fine $50

So your using like sachs 618 with standard clutch? You don't even need to upgrade to 6 puck? Where did you source the pressure plate? Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Is that D1 stage 2 a good setup for m20b25 heading for turbo ~300hp?

So I planning to turbo the e30 sometime down the track, looking for somewhere around 300hp mark... But before I get there I want to change the clutch. Does anyone have any good recommendations on a streetable clutch that can take those horses..?

Pmd Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Thanks heaps guys already have it sorted Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Hmm thanks for the offer, probably shoulda been more specific, timeframe more like 1-2weeks

Just thought I'd put this out there, Looking at getting a set of tyres in Wellington, and was wondering if any kind person may be travelling from to Auckland in the near future and may be able to help me with a shipping favor ...

pm'd

I got 3 caps..still hunting for the missing piece

e30 steering rack out of my 1988 325i. Had a few hard spots and made a nice wear sound on hard lock . One tie rod is good one warn. Might be good for parts not to sure $40

Turns out rack was just a bit dud, new one in and all is ok

So after changing my e30 rack to an e46 clubsport I have this loud creak/cracking noise. It only happens when I have it on full lock (turning right) and then I quickly turn to the left. After about half a turn it makes a loud crack. Doesn't seem to affect driving rack feels nice as. I drained the rack today and noticed when it was empty the crack occurred later in the movement after about 2 turns of the wheel. Once i refilled and bled, crack occurred at about half a turn again. Thinking air lock but racks are self bleeding so don't really know. Tried to isolate it by putting a screwdriver everywhere on the rack but I cant tell. Its somewhere on the left but not really sure..could it be inner tie rod? Both outers are brand new. Subframe bolts are tight checked that today. Here is a video..(this is when I've drained the fluid so quite a bit of slushing going on...just ignore that) https://youtu.be/DzMmar3zlp4 Any suggestions appreciated

Righto. Well I wouldn't say the new power supply Is a bodge it's a good thing so it doesn't fluctuate anyway. But yes I agree I need to find out why the voltage was low in the first place. Not overnight no. Firstly I'd like to eliminate my new pump as being sh*t or not. When the car is running and I pull the gas fuel pressure goes up to 42-44 then drops to about 34-35 then back up to 36-38. Should it do this or Is my pump not putting out enough pressure under load? Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Can anyone confirm? I rewired up a fused relay straight to the battery was only getting 10.5v now it's got 13.5v Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Would you say this is a normal/good pressure reading? Bottoms off at 34psi and goes through till about 44/45psi https://youtu.be/yxgpKsUlCNg Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

So the first fuel volume test I did above was straight out of the intank pump into a bottle. So heres what I've now done... Plugged a hose into FPR, started the car, and collected fuel into a bottle for 30s, and got a measly maybe 200-300ml. Evidence.... I then undid the fuel feed line into the fuel rail and jumped the fuel pump relay and got about 950ml. I then pinched the feed line while doing the above test again and watched the pressure gauge and it didn't get above 40psi. What does that say...?

Hi guys, So to make a long story short my car started surging and eventually stopped when I was out the other weekend. Looked on my fuel pressure gauge (in the delivery line before the rail) and pressure was way down at 20psi. So I jumped the fuel pump and to no surprise I didn't hear it go so I swapped it out for a new one this week. Now I've got the new one in when I rev it the pressure drops to low 30's. Thought it was potentially the FPR so put a brand new one of those I had lying around in but no change. It doesn't seem to hold residual pressure for very long after the cars off, I also just quickly did a dead head test by pinching the return line with my fingers (not strong enough?) and my pressure gauge didn't even get to 50psi. I did a fuel volume test too and got more than the specified 875ml in 30s. Heres what it does under load...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aom_cxOIPIc&feature=youtu.be Where should I look to next to figure this one out..?

After the gasket where the exhaust manifold joins the downpipe - part number 18301711969, looks like this

My one topped itself in the weekend so after a facelift in tank pump for my 325i.

Got a pic?..are they ones with a T slot or just standard bar type?

Do the roof racks fit e30 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk