CamB

I think to be fair you have to add: 4) A non-working POS (usually with aspirations to be #3 or #2)

About 8 years ago, I met a guy in Glenfield(ish) with an incredibly mint M325I with red or burgundy leather seats. Given how mint it was then, and that the guy loved it like a child (based on the conversation I had with him), I'd say as long as he still owns it, it would also be on the list of "mintest M325Is".

Hopefully Glenn has another client keen on a mint one - you could get that price based on what he said last time. You should really take some pics with the seat-covers off, although to be fair I'd imagine 100% of serious buyers are going to insist on decent hi-res pics by email (and a pre-purchase inspection, and I guess a test drive) so maybe it doesn't matter.

He's not saying you can't get a cert at 60mm, he's saying if you're certed for one height and found at another, your cert means nothing.

I'll save crunchy the effort of retyping what he's put in other threads ----> beware of cheap chinese turbos, they're not worth it (in his humble, but professional opinion).

Yeah, Ray's price sounds more what I'd expect (funny that, given he sells them). I keep an eye on prices as I have an unnatural and unfounded paranoia that my engine might explode in a $8k+ ball of fire (I guess I wouldn't need all the attachments, so could prolly find one a little cheaper or sell bits to reduce cost, but hey, its all theoretical given my engine is in fine condition). S54s seems to be a tough swap looking around the internets. Easy to get it in, hard to get it to run right... stroked m50? Its a typo of course A moment to look over there <-------- and you'd see I have an E36 M3.

From the trademe auctions I watched not sell for months at $15-18k, I'd say for that money one would expect not only the 3.2 and gearbox, but also the broken car they're attached to... Actually, if anyone wants to spend $18k on an M50B32, they could just about buy my car which is very nice.

There are injector calculators to help you figure out what you'd need - those commodore ones would probably be enough. A remap isn't much cheaper than a tune, I believe, so you're not saving much and making massive compromises with a re-tune. The factory ECU cant tell when you're under boost, so it doesn't know when to retard timing even if the tuning (and any FMU - a type of fuel pressure regulator) bodges its way around the fueling. Don't try and stuff around with an SAFC - it will still require tuning (so cost) and might not work well. On fuel pressure regulator, the factory one is most definitely fine with a Link. I see your biggest problem is the same as the one Luke had when he put his car together - there's not much room for the turbo/manifold/etc. You should also try and do some research on turbo size - having high compression and a really fast spooling turbo could be a recipe for detonation.

My 2c worth - its pretty debateable whether a 6spd is worthwhile on a car with an appropriately sized turbo and wide enough power band.

Like James says in the previous post, you readjust your mind after about a week and stop hitting the foot rest, so I wouldn't necessarily let that hold you back, however, M3's kinda do lack low down torque (I assume you mean under 2500rpm). Tons of power out to 7500rpm makes up for it, I reckon.

Looks fantastic - I like how cleanly the e36 interior has gone in. Yeah, I got them out of the USA so it was much cheaper but still ~$300 for speedo and tach and something else I can't remember. I'd rather have got smart with an e30 speedo, given I'll probably end up with an E30 diff...

I'll offer $1, if you pay the remake fee. Or, you could put up a price. http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=20961

Oh. That's clever - I wish I'd done it that way (I bought a VDO one and matching rev counter, which I am integrating like you have - much more expensive).

And you will need the correct length shocks if you want them to be captive, suitably short bodied shocks if you want to lower it materially and be captive (short body, not just shorter travel on the normal size shocks) and this is when you have to cut and shorten the strut, and some reasonably brain taxing calculations if you want to do the above.

I'd be interested to see what the statistics say for the number of accidents where the major contributing factor was speed, where that speed was between 105kph and 109kph in a 100kph zone. I'd guess its exactly ZERO, as having driven at that speed (who hasn't) the only way you could crash is driver error, inappropriate roading for the speed limit, or unsafe car (and even then the latter two require driver error or poor judgement). I understand why they drop the speed limit on certain roads from (for example) 100kph to 80kph, but I mean really...

You, err, sure its a lady. Pretty sure two dudes live there with their hairy chickens.

Was 100% deliberate, based on previous "no reserve" auctions failing to complete.

Just report him - he was kicked off Trade Me for a reason.

And now, at $10k bid, $20k buy now... http://www.sella.co.nz/motoring/cars/bmw/5t1hf7/

The M3 Evo is his son's.

SR20 is cheap, powerful and light - I think people mostly criticise them for the same reason they criticise Hondas ---> being common (because they're good). We all want to be unique (or should I say "special")...

Crikey. What did his son do to my wheels:

My amateur opinion based on data-mining the excellent spreadsheet at http://www.ebcbrakes.com/catalogues.shtml is that you're not going to find anything from another car in this wide world! Can you get new brackets made to suit a more common rotor option?

Keen for those photos

Yeah - be awesome to see this running properly!