CamB

Can you insure as a classic car? (parked in a gge, used as a second car, mileage limit). Will be MUCH cheaper.

And you didn't sell it?

ie, not the usual tapered nut/bolt.

I forgot about that - you need those crazy Pug style nuts (or bolts).

I've got screw-in ones. They seem fine.

I see where you (Ron) are coming from (ok, had to draw some pictures), and while I still think Henry's right (actually, that you're both right), given the length of the strut vs the lower control arm the point at which camber must start increasing is going to be well beyond the arc in which the wheel can actually travel (edit - only if it was possible for the strut to be short than the control arm??). I'm not going to rehash whether camber's good or bad, and whether caster can properly substitute (for a racecar), mostly since I have no idea. Also, please explain:

Well, how then - no need to be deliberately obtuse. Does the E30 have offset mounts or are you using another clever technique. I think this is correct too, FWIW. It becomes a more serious problem more quickly on a 2002 as the angle on the strut is steeper.

Ask about the diff bush too - JiB desperately needs one of them.

Fair call. I too have noticed the Dunlop SP Sports they provide on new Euro cars seem to last forever. My old man bought a Vectra GT back in '92 and the SP Sports on that hung in there for almost 60k km. Ditto more recently (althought I think only low 50k km) on an Audi A4 (approx a 2004 model). The interesting thing is they're not even close to the same tyre ("SP Sport" gets updated).

I just lol'd because you (effectively) complained about tyre wear and then discussed how good they were on the track. Racing pwns street tyres, in my experience.

That's not so good - I wonder why? LOL. Just winding you up. FWIW, I've got them on the M3. They seem to be lasting fine - have had the front ones on for 17k km and they aren't particularly worn, and the rear's are at least 20k (were on the car when I bought it and were "newish") and I'll estimate they'll go to approx 30k. I reckon 30k for a set of rear tyres on a 300hp car is pretty good. They're a bit "soggy" though. (edit) Also FWIW, they are wearing very evenly, possibly because my car is at the standard height with factory alignment settings. Food for thought.

That's not entirely fair - they make some good stuff and some ok stuff. You can't badmouth their entire range.

Awesome!

What's the rack from?

Almost as good as an M3! But for ... the same cost?

Oooops. I would go back and edit it, but maybe not. Go before show. I will go sit in the naughty corner now.

Show before go. That's what I reckon. Of course, you can have both.

They're not in the same price bracket, and neither is that fast on a drag strip for 60-80k Not like this is... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-254377262.htm LOL.

Apparently two factors are important for stock rockers: 1) Having rockers with good castings (people x-ray them) 2) no bouncing off an ignition cut rev limiter. Both of these make sense. OEM x-rayed (you'll need to be registered for the pics I think) http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?p=837426 Ireland Engineering x-rayed: http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.ph...t=x-ray+rockers http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.ph...;highlight=xray

Do they have any caliper clearance?

The Ireland Engineering heavy duty ones are supposed to be ok for 7k and cost about the same as new OEM. I hope they're ok for 7k, since I've got some for the M10. The billet ones from various suppliers are good for more than that. They cost a hell of a lot though...

Kelford will do a regrind - did you ask that?

And most of all, a rack is precise. A box is not, especially as they get older.

No it doesn't matter - David's right. For a rear mounted rack the pinion goes on top of the rack. For a front mounted one it goes under.

And my point is that the heart is driving it. Case in point going the other way - my M3. Must be the least interesting car I've ever owned to cover ground quickly. Haven't had it on the track yet but its giving me the vibe it won't be interesting on the track either. Extremely capable, but once you grow used to the warp factor 9 acceleration, not particularly interesting. An older 911, or my old Peugeot 106 (all 110hp of it) - now there's an exciting ride. A backward exit from a corner is a heartbeat away. Getting a corner "right" in a 911 is fantastic feeling as the considerable weight shifts to the outside wheel... and don't lift off. Plus a well maintained one is a pretty good track car - they go years of abuse without complaining as they are engineered to be driven hard. Fully adjustable suspension settings and brakes up to the task is a bonus too. Agree they are expensive to maintain. $50 filter, 10 litres of oil every 5,000km if you're being nice to it...