CamB

The reason its currently a threshold of $60 of GST / duty is that someone has done a cost benefit exercise and worked out that the cost of collection isn't worth it. This is pretty dire as if you factor in the $30 import fee (ie, it costs them towards $90 to process a package). Since I mostly buy stuff overseas for availability rather than cost reasons, I would be fine paying GST if: it was efficient; and they didn't charge the documentation fee and biosecurity fee. So, would need the Govt to implement an effective and cheap collection system ... eg, I should be able to register a credit card with them and be charged GST on something that comes in, no waiting - all electronic (confirm package and # online). If you don't register, then you go through the current system and get stung the documentation fee, which should be enough to encourage people to comply.

I agree - the speed that goes with 350hp and a bit of weight takes some stopping. You can get Skyline GTS-T brakes on (both ends) with only a medium amount of stuffing around. I used to have it written down but don't now, but wanna say s2000 front discs and one of the E46 rears (whatever is the right diameter) ... hang on - I searched for myself and this is what I wrote last time: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/37180-rx7-calipers-and-vw-rotors-on-an-e30/#entry423715 The car that was on stopped really well.

That list is for LVV - modifications, not certifying repair. Which do you need? I think these might be the guys, although to be honest I can't for the life of me work out whether you need a "repair certifier" or "specialist repair certifier". http://nzta.govt.nz/resources/specialist-repair-certifiers/index.html

The way I understand it is that if the car didn't have a cat, it doesn't need one. It shouldn't matter if you have room. Although the I agree you should confirm with the certifier. Also, I had a look at the standard and it's quite ambiguous if first reg was prior to 2010 (regardless of whether it had cats). Looking at your original post, you are also worried about an exhaust gas test - I think you need that anyway, although should pass easily (assuming the engine is hooked up right). Perhaps some scope for debate if the new engine and its ECU are expecting 2 oxygen sensors and (therefore) a cat. 2.4(1) suggests you need to keep all the electronics, although requiring a 2nd o2 sensor and getting an engine check light (for no cat) would be entirely inconsistent with permitting the removal of a cat for the same engine.

He should read the VIRM more closely (bottom of page): http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/steering-and-suspension/steering-and-suspension-systems

It'll totally depend on condition and completeness as well. While parts are generally available (not always in NZ), some trim is getting scarce (ie $$). On top of that, they are quite good at rusting too so not rusty = good, rusty = expensive to fix.

Imagine what's going through his head - "I need something to break in, a spanner or something, where will I find one of them in the sea".

Welcome from another tii owner. Yours looks nice! I hope getting it running well goes smoothly. If you find your engine needs attention, don't rush into rebuilding it. As I have upgraded, I have the one from my car (complete with injection, running well, low mileage top end and rebuilt bottom end) that would be cheaper to buy than any rebuild.

Looking at the sequence (Sat afternoon) it looks like a very civilised detour.

I'm not sure this is Grant Clegg's fastest run:

You probably don't need rods, in particular if you can find some 2002 or e21 ones (which are even stronger). Assuming you are looking to turbo a 318i, I reckon you have 2 options: 1) Turbo it, see what happens (might be ok, if you are sensible on boost). 2) Specifically build an engine for boost, and assuming you're getting pistons made: 2 litre crank (forged, counterweighted, longer stroke) http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/engines/auction-840438431.htm Then you can use the E21 rods, get them reconditioned / prepped. I'd say the combo of the above is cheaper than forged rods and gets you a forged crank and 13% more displacement. Then pistons to match whatever height the block measures to (and your combustion volume). I bought JE pistons to my custom specification a while ago through Glendene Engine Reconditioners (who did the other engine prep). My recollection is that they were only about 20% more than buying them from overseas. What cam (and rockers) are you thinking?

I've now done this. He essentially talked me round to a G 260, on the basis it will be the most cost effective vs strength option. First post modified accordingly, and now looking for a Getrag 260 from an M30 (preferably ex 535i), including shift cradle, clutch arm (release fork). Cam

I don't think you can put newer boxes on an M10/M30/S14/S38 (happy to be corrected). Those are all valid points - I had been approaching this on the basis a 265/5 is expensive but has better ratios and works with the diff I have. If I avoid changing diff ratio, that's cost I can put towards the price difference to the expensive box. Given Geoff's indicated availability on a diff ratio, I think I need to put some more effort into googling a size comparison. It's not like I have a lot of room to start with... And ability to fit might have to trump ideal ratios.

Thanks Brent - will do. Jon - I will need a bell housing although interested in whatever is available (ie won't necessarily turn away one without a bell housing...). It's for an M10 in a 2002, so I think I am ok with a 265 or 260 from behind either an S14 or M30. I don't need sensor holes, will need to figure out starter / flywheel (am hoping my 228mm tii ones will work), etc. Main concern is physical size - it's bigger than what I have, so will be tight. I should probably try and work out what the smallest option is out of 265s and 260. And to answer the obvious question, the M10 will have a turbo, so a stronger gearbox is a good idea.

Does anyone have a 265/5 dogleg box (E30 M3, some 6 and maybe 5series) available in good condition? Or any ideas on who I could talk to. Failing that I could probably do a 265/6 or 260 (for M30) but would need to find a 4.27:1 medium case ratio at the same time, which is probably only marginally easier. (Edit) based on Geoff's reply below I am now happy to more actively consider this option, although would still prefer a dogleg 265/5. Looking for a Getrag 260 for M30 (prefer 535i), with release fork, m/c (maybe), shift cradle too. Reply here, PM or cameron.baudinet@gmail.com Am in Auckland.

Cool thanks - good to know as I need to do something in mine. It is a long time no see, but the car has seen no progress (other than shifting house)... really, really need to find some time. And stop having children.

Hi Steve - car looks mint! Where did the heater core come from?

Well done! I went and had a quick look (not drive, unfortunately, I had no time) when driving past, and it was awesome.

I can't help thinking that's a concern you leave behind, along with pretty much everything else, every time you mash the throttle.

Interesting - same car (I assume - has to be) pops up at a dealer for $10k less: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/...n-603847998.htm Do want... I wonder if he wants to trade a Golf R... I wonder how reliable it would be...

Pretty sure this will be the same as on a 2002tii (I checked the online catalogue - same part number by the looks). Theoretically I have it. Somewhere. I'll look, but don't hold your breath (sorry!).

Yeah - 997 for 996 money. Nice. Still wouldn't fit down my drive, even though it was cheap.

Wow... What did the GT3 go for? I harbour desires for one, although it'd have to be older, I'd have to sell all the other cars and drive a 90s Honda to work ... and worse I don't think I could get a GT3 into my garage given the 60mm ground clearance.

Sure - I don't mind. They're just sitting on the garage floor. Will send you my details. You should go check out the pick-a-part one - if its a 5spd they are rare and have an odometer gear to work with a 2002. Ideal really. Cam

Am in Auckland, unfortunately. You can have the gearbox for free if you want it - was just going to scrap it as last time I tried to sell it (2 of them actually), I didn't attract any bids at $50 for the pair... Cam