CamB

Any chance this is of use: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/52966-m54-internals-crank-rods-and-pistons/

How old? I have insurance with Classic Cover and it covers (at least in part) parts etc. I think it's pretty cheap. You could try talking to them.

It has a pretty (extremely) flat torque curve in the dyno video. I suspect it has nothing much below 3000rpm, but the 6000rpm powerband after that is incredible. That's better than BMW (or whomever it is) saying "500nm from 1500-6000rpm", and a hell of a lot better than high power turbo cars with 900hp which tend to have a 2000rpm torque peak (full boost 5k). (Edit - or do you mean it doesn't drive well on part throttle? Can see how that'd be the case)

Wow. That's awesome. Full stop. I'd have thought anyone who is into cars can find at least a little something to love in that car. It's got originality and they've no doubt overcome some serious engineering hurdles.

Steve - without asking for all your secrets, is there an obvious budget way to deal with retarding timing / increasing fuel (rising rate FPR?) under modest levels of boost? To the original poster - you should find a turbo (and wastegate if you are going external, which on an M50 I imagine you are), a manifold flange and take the car to a fabricator who can make you something (probably fairly basic) for your budget. They could make you a downpipe at the same time. Or you could try work out if Otis' (rapidspoolindustries.com) manifolds fit RHD, but they aren't cheap (usd500). Then you just need oil lines (in and out of turbo), intercooler, blowoff valve, sensors, ECU, clutch, blah blah. Not really what you are asking at the moment. You just want a manifold!

Yep - for the 02, although it will likely take me a long time to get anywhere near a dyno so I expect you will be completed before I have made heaps more progress. I am of course happy to answer questions and give my 2p worth on anything, but I have zero experience other than spending time asking questions / playing with settings / testing. It just happens that I spent a lot of time looking into boost control... The Link is pretty straightforward to setup, and of course the magic is in actually tuning it.I have basically set myself the challenge of getting the car running by myself, then will get it tuned properly. Or maybe will try myself - the engine in it for mockup purposes is just an old m10B18, so if I blow it up its not a big loss. (Edit - forgot to say a lot of the driver around research for the ECU was to make sure I only made a loom once and understood all I needed / could / would want to do. I only have a Storm so am limited by number of inputs, but I see enormous value in logging a session or race and then checking afterwards for undesirable things (like high temps or low oil pressure)).

Not getting much love from the peanut gallery are you. You should export an early Porsche 911 to the UK. Prices for them are crazy there.

Was just looking at your FB page again - more good progress! You should definitely think about using the Link for boost control. I can't speak for whether it does a good job on the control part, but I have been fiddling with the potential setup on mine (sadly on the bench - car is nowhere near being fired up) and you can do cool stuff: - two open or closed loop boost maps, change by toggle switch - adjust boost onset by gear - if closed loop (and you have a spare analog input) you can hook up a rotary switch with resistors so it becomes a stepped voltage input, and have different boost targets for each position (as many positions as on the switch - I have decided six) AND different if you like on each of the above maps. It's not just different boost levels either - they are boost target at specified rpm, so you can have more or less aggressive boost mapping (progressive boost onset, rather than a big spike, and on an engine/turbo like yours you can probably programme in a little boost increase at the top end where it might normally fall off) - you can have the boost maps set against anything you like (rpm vs boost target is what I describe above) - I am still thinking this through, but for example can see a benefit in having rpm vs throttle position (although I think this means losing the rotary switch boost control) to possibly make it easier to drive in the wet - the toggle switch for the second map can also switch to a 2nd fuel map and 2nd ignition map. Perfect for 98RON vs more boost, more ignition timing, more fuel, more power E85... -

http://www.jegs.com/v/G-Force-Transmissions/468 For the "world class" version.

Yeah - it looks like once you start cutting the tunnel that a T5 is a pretty cost effective option as you can get all manner of decent gear kits out of the US. I'd like to see +/-300hp (seems achievable for 2000cc turbo), so not sure how long a (reasonably expensive) HD-equipped Type 9 will last. So, as I can't find a G260 in M10/M30 fit (which is easily strong enough), I've resolved to see how I go with the G240. I am hopeful that turbo torque spread will make it less critical to have close ratio.

If you can't find an auto, try offering someone with a 4spd on trademe $50 for one. I sold 2x for $100 about 5 years ago I think. They're worthless. Very interested to know what you are planning to put on there. I am not hopeful for the lifespan of the E30 318i Getrag 240 in mine once (if?) I ever start driving it with the turbo. Craig (the poster above me) did a good job getting a Ford box in his, but I am not sure they're strong enough for my aspirations either.

Thanks. I was definitely going to check - will make something sketchy up using a bench grinder i think. Now where are my safety glasses... I am planning on having the bolt I want to trigger several mm higher than the others anyway (so theoretically ok with all steel). Using stainless is belts and braces.

I've never asked him - just assumed what I'd do in his position (which is an M3 block / crank, considering the Evo version to push it out towards 2.5l). To be fair, I have a 2002, an M3 crank, and pistons/block for 2.1 litres. I just can't figure out how to fit the big turbo in the engine bay and also not explode the rest of the drivetrain (or the engine). I probably don't have enough cam (Schrick 292) for the big revs / big power package either. Then there's is a small problem of not being a good driver.... I need to talk to you some time about the right turbo for my goals, but I want to get it running first with what I have (buttplug Silvia turbo on a spare M10B18). And back on topic, based on a suggestion elsewhere I will give a cam trigger (bought one from MSEL) a go on the M10 based on 3x stainless steel cam sprocket bolts (which the hall sensor should ignore) and 1x raised steel one. Hopefully A4-70 stainless is close enough to grade 8.8 to not cause a problem. Just need to find time between job and small kids now.

I'd say Mike has a bit of a capacity advantage

I agree with Westy - sounds like a great excuse to upgrade to a box with a 1:1 top. (edit - too slow, sounds like you are going that way, good call) So do you have a 240 behind the turbo? How does it enjoy that?

Haha - so true. There's a 500hp M10 in Sweden with an unmodified (and unrebuilt) M10B18 bottom end - not bad for a 60s tech 8 valve. Biggish turbo, cam and headwork of course, but if I can trust google translate I think it even still has the standard size valves.

I don't think you ever need to run more octane than the engine needs in a given moment (which isn't necessarily its handbook's minimum octane - it might be higher depending on temperature and load, etc). As long as the ECU isn't pulling timing due to knock, then there's no benefit to higher octane ... although there's no simple way to know this with modern ECUs. Totally agree for performance cars though. "You get what you pay for" - have you ever noticed the small print under "98RON" is "Min 97.5 RON". Grrrr - why is 98 not actually 98. http://mobil.co.nz/New_Zealand-English/PA/products_fuels_auto_s8.aspx

Excellent - thanks. Am going to avert my eyes from all the other nice stuff he has. Do you think I'll get a stable cam sync if I use that sensor through the front cover of an M10 and pick up off a single raised cam sprocket retaining bolt. I am imagining a 5mm+ long bolt, with a spacer underneath so the sensor picks up that but not the other 3 bolt heads. Pic for reference: Mounting the sensor will be easier said than done, but that's another issue. Just looking for what it can trigger off.

Where's a good place to buy these locally?

For that price I'd expect it to be a bit more mint (plenty of signs of minor rust). It seems to be pretty hard to stop them rusting. Its hard to tell though - price for some older / less common cars has gone pretty mental in recent times.

If they were mine, they once upon a time looked like this: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/32666-bbs-lms/ Then I had the lips polished, and the centres machined for reverse mounting then powdercoated a silver-ish colour that is a bit like Nogaro. Last pics I had of them were here before I sold them with the car: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/34886-e36-m3-sedan/ You could probably tell if its them as the powder-coating was a touch thin on the inside of a couple of the spokes. Not suggesting any concern by the way - just that if you get your face right in there you can see it. Would gladly own them again if I had a car that fitted them.

^ LOL Interested to see that wastegate. I have one of them in the cupboard with a spare Holset waiting for me to go all Swedish on an M10. I wondered if it would be able to keep boost down on a big turbo (its an Audi wastegate and has a pretty small valve).

On a still night, when the wind blows just so ... and you can smell the KFC down the road.

Thanks for the response. I am definitely looking forward to seeing how this comes together, especially since you are making such regular and pretty rapid progress.

Awesome work on the plenum (actually in general, but for some reason the plenum excites me extra). Out of curiosity, is there a formula to work out the size / shape of the chambers?