CamB

As unlikely a problem as it might seem, you should also check that TDC really is TDC (if the head is still on, carefully stick a screwdriver (etc) down a plug hole and feel for when it reaches TDC - it won't be super precise but will be within a degree). Then check the cam is correctly aligned.

Where's Crockett? I seem to recall he thought the car was worth $6k. He must be quite pleased with himself. Good luck - I think $6.5k is fair/good.

Great write up! Lots of good info there. I recognise a couple of, err "features" of the E36 too. Not sure I'd be doing that often - you'd wear out the clutch pretty quick!

Did they really offer one with a large case? Bizzare. You can't break a medium case with an E30... What ratio is it?

e30-323ti has a 1JZ in his: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....870&hl=1jz* Good luck when the time comes to do the swap (if that's the way you go)!

Sure you won't. You really shouldn't argue with a moderator. If you re-read what he said, he suggesting contacting a member who has done the swap and probably knows how the wiring works. That's pretty helpful. Otherwise, you could try searching using my favourite... google: http://www.google.co.nz/search?q=e30+wirin...lient=firefox-a The VERY FIRST LINK is to a forum with a link to wiring diagrams, including a 1983 e30 (note the last link is 10mb). I mean you really didn't try very hard...

Mean. That must haul ass.

Undo them? Fittings on the LHS.

20mm spacer or 27mm adapter (see 2.5(4))

Would be good for the track, but top speed not much over 210kph (I think, did it quickly). Would be over 3000rpm at 100kph. It might be worth deciding on a ratio if you are pulling the diff apart to put an LSD in anyway.

I suspect that changing to a shorter diff makes any loss of lower end torque from the M50 manifold irrelevant --> you have to rev the engine harder etc but it wants to. My M3 is screaming for a shorter diff. I do not need 2200rpm at 100kph and gearing for a 300kph+ top speed. It also needs a lighter flywheel.

In my humble opinion, this is the best thread: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....92;5+stud\ Click on the link in e30-323ti's signature and check out the pics of what he did at the front end.

The LVVTA rules aren't secret - they are on the website: http://www.lvvta.org.nz/

Decent headers are very expensive... that's my point. The M3's S14, while ridiculously expensive, is superior, and it was the first production 4 valve BMW 4 cylinder. They did a pretty good job of it - it easily formed the base for an impressive race engine. The M42 is a bit crap though - I understand it has a number of weak points.

Is the M30 the same headbolts as an M10? Big beefy, not torque to yield? I am assuming mine will be fine for 15psi plus with o-rings.

Yeah you can cert your way around the 100mm rule. Theoretically* the cert will also require adequate suspension travel and stiffness, and take into account avoiding hitting the bumpstops in use (as well as ensuring handling is good). * I can't see how an E46 this low can meet this, unless you spend heaps on the suspension to correct camber etc as well.

I'm not gonna hate on it either, but 50mm is definitely not for me. It'd scrape too much. I'd hate looking at a driveway or speed bump with fear... If you had it certed with those wheels, and change to 19s, I believe the cert isn't accurate anymore (its a stupid rule).

That's about the going rate for a good but not rare or mint M3. He might be pricing it to sell, rather than pricing it to get people talking on Bimmersport. savant's car also for sale, and mint, for $45k http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=200401849

It's now on bottles though. I want it, but wife says no.

Based on a bit of research (hours, not minutes), it seems that the M50 manifold does exactly what's described - less power down lower and more up higher. I don't think I have ever seen one which compared dyno tuned before and after. I disagree that BMW didn't get 4 cylinders in 1992. The S14 is a pretty awesome, if relatively highly strung, engine. The S38 is also good, and the S50 came out before the M52. For what its worth, my S50 has fairly average torque down low, but that doesn't make it bad. Its a trade off. In any case, while I agree the M3 exhaust was a good mod for your car 3pedals, its essentially unobtainable here (you got lucky) and recommending it as a cheap/comparable alternative is disingenuous.

Surely at that price someone will buy? I like my wheels so not interested, but if I didn't like my wheels I'd be all over it.

Haven't you answered your own question? I believe the VIN decoder gives information too: http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi

You aren't kidding about being hard on them!

And the (single) oil pump sprocket nut on my M10. That came off, and I got to pay for a bottom end rebuild including crank grinding and re-nitriding

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