CamB

Ouch, its a lot of $$$ out the door! Makes me worried for the day I need new disks for mine - they're the smaller semi-floaters.

Euro has gone from 55c to 40c. Doesn't sound like a justification for doubling the price to me. I feel bad for you! Actually that's me assuming from Europe. US pricing probably different - what are the brakes/disks going to be?

I hate to tell you but these aren't gonna fit on a V8, lol.

Are those Porsche seats front and rear I see? Certainly the fronts are. Did the rear ones get liberated from a 928?

Rebuild to better than new like the race series guys do, complete with noisy exhaust.

Given Glenn has helped you so far in this thread, how about Botany Motorworx for the transmission fluid. I'll let him tell you if he does wheel alignments, coz I have no idea.

I'm keen on the 3.91 - how much for that?

If I was doing it I'd try a Gt30 or gt35 size - roughly 55mm inducer and 60mm exducer and ~50 trim. It'd be called a 500hp turbo, or there abouts. That's only my opinion though - haven't tried it.

The only thing I would add based on the e30tech / Swedish way is: - big turbo that spools late - free flowing exhaust - Megasquirt or some other full engine management - standard head gasket fine - arp head bolts required - standard pistons and US-spec compression ratio fine The key to the way they do it is that the big turbo isn't producing significant pressure until after the engine's torque peak, so you are less likely to get detonation (and can use a standard head gasket). The free flowing exhaust (and big exhaust side of the turbo) also ensures little backpressure so helps avoid detonation (brought on by exhaust reversion). The tuning is also critical to avoiding detonation - correct fueling, correct ignition advance, etc.

o-rings about $20 a bore for machining. Basically could be from 2k - 10k depending on how much you replace, what you upgrade and how much you can do yourself.

I think he wants to go the other way (longer ratio). How much for the 3.91?

Yeah, check your brakes lines for signs of expanding / spongyness - JiB had two that were buggered. Swap to braided lines and it was pretty awesome (ok, adequate). That's the first thing I would check. If you spent less on the iS lip you'd have more for an LSD

Sensors is the diff from pfl to pf - if you have a pfl 325i you need the sensors. My guess - it might actually be a Getrag 245(?) - its a 3 piece case. I think those came with a speedo drive though?

Was a very hot S14 going to go in the 2002? Would have been a beast!

Its still got an AFM, so I assumed (always dangerous) that it didn't. Its a better deal if it does.

Asking and selling prices are not the same, and the one I bought from you was the expensive one. I bought the other from Trademe, a week earlier, for less $$$ in a normal auction (I was the only bidder).

Speaking of Brent (and the latter auction), shill bidding is not ok, ok. I don't care if its under the reserve, its still dishonest. Oh and first auction is this one I think: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....mp;#entry227186 Based on my experience of buying 2x medium case LSDs in the past month, price range is $600-750.

It'll need more than a new headgasket - without a proper way to control fuel and spark it will just happen again.

It's not the windscreen washer fluid - you need to do more than fill it up. It will need bleeding - a two person job. Since you don't already know this, I am a little hesitant telling you how to do it, since I think there is a problem with either the clutch master or slave, and trying to bleed a faulty hydraulic system is doomed to failure (and its hard enough the first time you do it when everything works well).

That is definitely looking hot! I love the intake and the coils mounted up there. Tidy.

I lol'd - asking $6k, and in the auction is says "these cost me 6-7k". Tell him he's dreaaamin. If I was in the market for $6k wheels, I think I'd want to buy new, with a warranty, etc.

User name crunchy - RB26DETT ones on an M20.

I've got an M3 and at a glance it is visually almost indistinguishable from an E36 with an M kit. I couldn't care less. M-kitted cars have the M on the side mouldings. Why not an M on the back?

And if this is the case, putting more fluid in isn't going to help! It does sound like either the clutch master or slave has failed, or the line.

Did it still disengage (ie, can you still drive)? Still have fluid in the reservoir?