Ninjaspartan

Hi all, I'm just toying with the idea of selling my 335i and was wanting some input on what it is worth. Any input on a ball park figure would be much appreciated as I don't know, thanks! Short history, took the car for some fun to Hampton downs, spun a rod bearing, crank could not be saved so I put a built bottom end with brand new crank at 158k kms in early 2018. Some of the mods below, along with the usual things, coils, plugs, water pump etc. 2009 e92 N54 with 203k kms DCT 7 speed Bilstein B8 shocks and Eibach springs JE 9.5CR Forged Pistons @ 158k kms FCP Engineering Forged Rods @ 158k kms New Crank @ 158k kms King main and rod bearings @ 158k kms 5" intercooler 17t turbos and Wedge tune @ 173k kms (July 2020) 500+ hp Walbro 400 LPF New HPFP @ 182k kms (March 2021) M3 front control arms 184k kms (April 2021) Cheers!

Not sure how primary/secondary cats play into the legislaion, but these cars have secondary catalytic converters as well. So if you have thoses then should be good as a catalytic converter is still present? From experence never had an issue getting a wof with catless downpipes.

Correct, LPFP looks good form the parts of the logs I looked over, it hangs around 70psi and sits there when under load. Your HPFP will see lower pressures if the LPFP was bad as well. Thats a shame about VRSF, I have only had good experiences with them but do hear about stock issues from time to time. It could be high intake temps, I would expect high temps to cause more issues up top rather than down low. However if you where getting pre ignition to due to hot spots it should throw a misfire code and/or have a code if minor knock was dected. Recomendation would be to start changing items related to combustion and intake, just to rule them out. Spark plugs (1 step cooler) Not a must but recommend. I used OEM Bosch for a bit with MHD stage 2+ with no isssues (however I did not track it). Only swapped to cooler plugs with a turbo upgrade. Coils (if not recently replace) Eldor coils are highly rated. Delphi is also very good. Check for carbon build up on the intake ports. Check if air filter is dirty. As others have mentioned it is a bit of a guessing game, best thing is to start elimiating options and go from there.

Your HPFP looks good (really good), stays above 2000psi up top which is more than enough. Once you start dipping below 1500 I would start to question it, but not even then. Your low pressure, (fuel tank pump) will generally go/need upgrading before the HPFP. When the HPFP is failing it starts to tapper off fast in the higher RPM. Example: (It picked up again because boost dropped to 10psi) Intake temps are high, so you definately want to fit that intercooler when it arrives. It would be interesting to see how MHD Stage 1/1+ performs as a comparison. If you haven't already could ask eurosurgeon about the tune. was it intended for track use? Also just checking do you have DTC turned on? Pushing DTC button to enable DTC and disable DSC.

Yes, I agree it would be rather tricky just using pressure alone. Once warm (100c) I read about 1.5 bar at 700rpm. under load it goes to about 6bar above 2500rpm Not too sure for the 12v around the engine bay sorry. I already had a boost gauge which I wired into the 12v cigarette lighter. So when installing the oil pressure gauge I could just connect off the existing gauge and run the lead through firewall to the sensor. It is very easy to run a wire through the firewall though.

Not bad. I do wish I went with a more reputable seller for down pipes. The Allexpress special had fitment issues with the exhaust.

I have experienced this exact issue, low oil pressure when tracking the car caused a spun rod bearing. I did not have any warning that it was sufferrng from low oil pressure. Kind of silly how it is just a switch rather than a proper gauge to read pressure at all times. What I ended up doing as a solution to that.

Thanks, I purchased them years ago from albut only got round to fitting the oil pressure the other day. They just display a digital read of the gauge and the voltage too.

Good to know thanks! I thought it was temp as I remember seeing something about timing was reduced after 50c. Do you know if it is linear based, so higher temps more timing reduction or once X temp is reached it reduces timing based on the load/rpm?

Added an oil pressure gauge to go with the boost gauge. MOV_1017.mp4

Hot intake temps will absolutely pull timing. This is based on the Tune. Here are the stock timing reductions based on Temp for the 335is (IJEOS) DME verson. I would imagine its the same as the 335i. So above 50c its pulling 5.5 to 8 degrees. Also as John mentioned the two throttle readings are a bit odd. Generally you have throttle postion IE the postion of pedal, and the postion of the actual throttle body. So you have a requested throtle and actual throttle in a sense. As for getting a larger intercooler, yup that is definately something to look at. Especially since you take it to the track.

Had a little look at the logs and she is running hot and looks to be pulling timing. I see 70c + for IATs (assuming data zap has got everything correct). No boost reduction, looks to be holding 17psi. I do see the throttle does look to close around 4000 rpm which I'mt not sure if is DME or you are just letting off. Also are you left foot braking? Here is the link for Datazapme with your logs. (If you don't want them here I can remove) just easy to see/use data. https://datazap.me/u/ninjaspartan/forum-135i?log=0&data=9-18-20-22-23-24-26&zoom=8598-9091 MHD is pretty good for data logging IMO and checking engine fault codes as well.

+1 for Bimmer Geaks Their support on facebook is incredible. https://www.bimmergeeks.net/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/BimmerGeeksProTool

Yup thats correct at 81. Not sure why but its a normal bmw thing, well on the n54 at least.

Most intercoolers on aliexpress will be an upgrade over stock. The stock intercooler is tiny. For the logging, not so interested in the oil temps, more interested in the IAT's, target boost, Throttle position vs pedal position, timing etc. Re adapters, MHD can work with a D+K can cable or its own wireless adapter.

Hey, I tracked my n54 335i on MHD stage 1+. I did spin a bearing but that was due to oil starvation.... Fan belt inside the engine from previous owner. Anyways, that oil temp is fine at 120c, it does depend on your oil type but if its fresh oil before the track day thats fine. The hotter the oil gets the faster it breaks down, where it becomes too thin. I reached temps of 140c with no hesitation in performance, this was with stock intercooler but catless downpipes. Tranmission is a DCT and I had no over heading issues with the trans during the track day. I believe 149c it throws a warning for the oil temp. Unsure of your mods, but if you are at 370hp (quick google of Eurosurgeon tune) on stock systems I would high recomend you go full bolt on (FBO). As Matthew said, high intake temps will pull timing on these cars. Also +1 for using MHD, super easy and fast to use, also pretty cheap IMO.

Cheers, yeah would be getting a revision of the tune for sure to make the most out of the setup.

Cheers for the Info John. Was just thinking of having something simple to start with. Will check out the Aquamist kits.

Haha, well I do want help with meth.

Hi all, Looking for any recomenations on water/methanol kits. In particular something suited for a 335i n54. Any experiance on what has worked in the past for this platform (or in general) and what kits/brands to avoid would be much appriciated. Cheers Jordan

Have you considered the forced induction route? I wouldn't say there is a lot to gain in the form of tuning from the M54b30. Even with all the mods, the most I would estimate about 265hp maybe a bit more for the higher redline. But if you are wanting to stick with the m54 then go for it! Not sure what the prices are for s54's of s52's these days but that could be a more cost effective way?

In contrast my local dealer has been pretty good over the years. Took the car in for a transmission fault code one time to be checked out (so just diagnostics) and they drove me to work in a b58 340i, guessing that would be the next step from a 335i. (also wass picked up form work when my car was ready). So no complaints there haha. Also I needed a new crank shaft and it was cheaper at the dealer than anywere else. I even tried direct from BMW Germany. But I do agree most other parts can be costly when compared to FCP Euro/Pelican parts/ECS Tuning etc.

I believe Gull is 95 gasoline with 10% ethanol.

Isn't Mobil 98 straight gasoline with no ethanol content? I thought it was only Gull 98 that was e10?

I've used Gull 98 for the past 3+ years of owning my n54, no issues other than needing to upgrade the LPFP as the stock one was giving out and could not flow enough, but thats not e10 related.