Ben

Ive only driven with the rears on and yea they rubbed a bit but my car was lower in the rear than the one in the pic and I still need to roll the guards a touch more.

the second set are BBS RC's I got 17x8.5 et15's which are the same as the ones in the pic Im going for the stanced/raked/poked/stretched effect

HELP ME DECIDE!! Should I do this or this I already have the RC's and if I put them on Ill be powder coating them satin black. But Ive always liked the Drift R's so yea kinda spoiled for choice. Whats your opinion?

+1

Is that the silver E36 near glen road in stokes valley?

Heres a couple pics of my old one Please resize & repost your pictures

haha sorry mate, didnt mean to cause any offense!! Not asking questions to be a cock, Im genuinely interested, Im just relaying info that I got straight from MAPECU for the OPs benefit In your case maybe it can be used but, from what Ive been told from MAPECU, it would not be suitable for the OPs application if hes using the standard ignition system. Its only fair to inform the OP of this so he doesnt assume it can be used and spend money on something which wont work as planned. How will you scale for such a large increase in injector size? MAPECU only recommend 2x the size of the standard injectors. +1 on dizzy cap conversion pics

MAPECUU2 wont work. You cant control timing on an M50 with it and even if you could, there is no way you could scale the injectors down over 5 times the size of the originals. Ive emailed them about M50 application and this is what they had to say... Power and longevity has alot to do with the state of your tune so with such an epic engine build, why is it you choose to use such a sh*t tuning platform like the MAPECU2? Budget constraints? For the price of a new MAPECU2 you could get a 2nd hand link which would be ten times better in the long run. Also, just out of interest, why have you chosen to use the m50b25 over the m52b28 or s50b30?

1) The ecu will run the engine on boost with standard injectors but you will run out of fuel around 4000rpm. 2) Just get a bigger fuel pump to be safe. You can get a walbro off trademe for about $250 3) No, an upgrade is definitely necessary. 3a) M52B28 injectors (Pink top) are about 240cc and are a direct replacement. S50B30 are also plug in and have slightly more flow than B28 ones. Most Bmw/Bosch Injectors will plug in and there is plenty of flow charts for injectors on the net. Ive also used 270cc jecs/nissan rb20det injectors. They required some modification to fit and did work though I found them much too big to use with the standard ECU as they over fueled to the point where I couldnt rev above idle. 3b) They are high impedance. 4) IMO they are a hassle just use the standard M50 one. 5) Yes they work with BMWs. I have one installed in my car ATM. The only problem tuning with SAFC is the ignition timing will be affected. You can slightly counter this by using a 540i MAF or by modifying the standard MAF by pulling the guts out of it and fitting it to a 4inch pipe though this is still not ideal. (I can go into much more detail regarding the SAFC if need be.) 6) As DRTE30 said, the oil feed tees off the back of the oil light switch behind the oil filter housing and does not require any drilling or tapping. 7) Draining the oil to the sump plug is far from ideal but it does work as long as the drain stays on a downward angle all the way to the sump. The oil does rest in the pipe but will only sit as high as the highest level of oil in the sump which will 9/10 times be much lower than the turbo. The other way around it is to drill the sump and get a fitting welded on which I would recommend as the best option. As for the turbo I used an TO4E with ex .63 A/R and 38mm turbosmart WG. I got 8psi by 2500rpm easy. From my research 8psi should be fine on the standard engine but that would be max. Ill get some pics of my kit uploaded soon Im just having trouble locating my camera at present.

After much procrastination Ive decided to sell my turbo kit. It will not include the turbo, wastegate, FMIC or plumbing but includes the following... # Bottom mount turbo manifold (T3/T4 flange 38mm turbosmart WG flange) # Oil feed line # Oil return line (Drains to the sump plug) # Dump pipe (can include V band flange if you want it) Everything is a straight bolt on besides the dump pipe which needs to be welded to the front section of your exhaust. I also have a set of 240cc replacement injectors which should support 8psi on either M50b20 or b25 with the aid of a fuel controller and 540i MAF. $550ono for everything including injectors Will post pics soon

BMW skiddies link

Coilovers or panels?

I found this the other day while searching for software to tune DME. Visit My Website In some positions the switch will retard timing and increase fuel delivery so could possibly be used as a base tune for low psi turbo conversions. Has anyone tried fiddling with this switch before? Is this switch in later model DME?

That list is more or less a minimum requirement to turbo an S50/M50 At that boost level you can get away with out an upgraded HG but if your going to do the head bolts you may as well do the HG. If you only need tips ill make a list Handy hints... 1. Oil feed for turbo. Tee off the oil pressure sender at the back of the oil filter housing. 2. Oil Return for turbo Drill the sump there is pretty much no other way around it. You can feed it to the sump plug but don't, cause its gay 3. Injectors Most bosch injectors will fit your rail Failing that you can use RB26 injectors but they do need slight modification and a resistor pack 4. Turbo Manifolds TRADEME MANIFOLDS DO NOT FIT! LHD MANIFOLDS CAN NOT BE FLIPPED AND USED AS RHD TOP MOUNT!! I had to modify mine beyond recognition to get it to fit and is now a two piece bottom mount manifold. When purchasing a top mount manifold make sure the turbo flange sits forward, further than cyl # 1 pipe on the head flange. (Easier to get a custom one made) 5. ENGINE Standard engine can be boosted but dont expect it to live long if your thrashing it. At a minimum upgrade the head studs and use a thicker HG. Repco has a listing for a thicker OEM HG for an M50B25, which lowers the CR to around 9.5:1 Im not sure if theres a similar listing for S50 but its worth giving them a call 6. ECU Don't f**k around GET A LINK or other standalone. USA tuners make straight replacement chips for turbo conversions but they are expensive (read. $300US+) Thats all I can think of atm but Im sure others will add to it if Ive missed anything DISCLAIMER. DONT BLAME ME IF YOUR sh*t BLOWS UP!! Dont take this info as GOSPEL!! This is just my opinions from my own experience with the M50 turbo conversion!!

I dont know what all those acronyms mean, but does any of the software tune DME?

How much do you want to spend? What is your power goal? A good start to the list would be.... A turbo turbo manifold ( CUSTOM!! dont buy any "off the shelf" RHD manifolds cause 9/10 times it wont work) Intercooler + piping BOV Wastegate Exhaust Injectors Standalone ECU Fuel pump Thicker HG Upgraded head bolts The sizes, dimensions and types of everything above will be dictated by power goal vs wallet thickness

I found this while fooling around on the net. Might be helpful for those wanting to change diff ratios or what ever. BMW Gear Ratio List Ratio Calculator Sticky maybe?

Really? I thought 316i, 318i, 320i use the same and 325i, 328i and m3 share the same Owners manual says 325i has different gbox ratios to the smaller engines which share their own set of ratios. Can anyone share the facts?

pedal, master and slave cylinder with hydraulic lines, clutch, flywheel, release bearing, gear box and may also need the cross member and driveshaft. I havent done a manual conv. on a bmw before but if they are similar to a nissan youll need to wire up the inhibitor switch and sort the reverse light switch aswell. If Ive missed anything im sure another member will fill in the blanks

Im so pissed i missed out in those wheels

In my experience the hardest part to turboing a bmw is ... everything! Unlike rice burners nearly everything is either custom or costly, eg. manifolds, ecus, injectors, clutches etc. If I was to start all over with my turbo kit I wouldnt. Id just dump an RB30DET in it Dont get me wrong its not a bad idea to turbo BMW engines as they can be fairly strong, (people in the states are getting 500rwhp+ on standard internals) just down here in NZ we dont have the A/M support for BMWs. If you want a turbo bmw but dont want to put a jap motor in it then I would suggest selling the 318i and buying at least a 325i for the base car. Some people might disagree but from my research into the matter m42/44 engines just dont offer the same performance gains as m50/52 when turboed.

Me being one of them

Thanks heaps for the photos. So I take it theres plenty of thread to give more negative camber then? Does anyone know of a way to calculate how much camber is gained per mm of adjustment?

Yea that would be awesome thanks

I take it they are adjustable? Do you know how many degrees of adjustment they allow for?