Driftit

You will need to tighten up that sloppy BMW rear end man. And dont even bother drifting on the shitty viscous LSD's. Invest in a mechanical 1.5 or 2 way. It makes it so much more predictable. And with the BMW's being quite snappy in a slide you want them to be more predictable. Dont bother with the over priced 2jz. Go for a 2nd Gen 1jz. Usually alot cheaper. Make sure you look into where you should mount the motor to avoid unbalancing the front end. Last thing you want is an understeering pig. But the toyota motors are a good choice. A stock 1jz will make you enough power. You will also have to get some rear and front camber arms. Can you get them for E36? Brace her up too. Make the rear arms and subframe as hard mounted to the body as possible. Let me know if you want to borrow the gaurd roller.

Just read your txt. But had no credit man. lol. Handbrake.

When building my 180sx I made sure I had a cert. The car gets alot of attention from the police. But once they see the cert they are happy with me. And alot of my mods were done in Japan. So $500 assured me the car is still to a safe standard. That $500 can save you thousands if you get done at one of those full on check points where they have LTSA guys working. I would like to see car crushers. I think it is a good idea. Give the person 2 weeks to apeal. Most will let there car go. A deregd car on the road gets handed out about $1000 worth of instant fines anyway.

Cool. Now to buy some.

Vote me as your dictator. I will make sure nothing is ever PC.

Hey people. Time to convert my drums to discs on my E30 series car. Can someone confirm the parts required to do so. Apparently I need Rear trailing arms, calipers, caliper braket, and the E-Brake cable from a car with rear discs. Is this all? I am replacing all the bushes at the same time. Cheers Dan

I had a read around. And it looks like the only way you can get all the options is by calling up a dealer and giving them you chassis code. Or on some models you can lift up the back seat and read the specs there.

I have replaced everything with new items. New EBC rotors, rebuilt calipers, EBC braided lines, new master cyl. Have two spare rebuilt calipers too. So cheap to rebuild I thought I may aswell.

Yeah thats what I was thinking. The cars are light and slow. Will just keep checking it to be safe.

Yeah will get onto this. Dont really want to waste my nice high temp fluid though. So yeah I am also keen to know when it goes from old to new. It does mention in that guide a brand that makes two different colors. Now that would be handy. And if any seasoned E30 Race series driver who is using hi temp fluid reads this. How often are you changing your fluid. From what I understand it should be after every race weekend.

Cheers. Done it quite a few times just to get rid of air in the lines. But was wondering if there was an easy process to drain it 100%.

How do I go about doing this? Is it an easy task to do on your driveway or is there special tools to do it? This is for my race series car which is not yet going. I am installing my new callipers, rotors, and braided lines. Whats the process to drain it all out?

Yeah thats it. Cheers.

Cant find the link for that site that has all the specs of your car. Thought I had saved it but turns out I saved realoem.com twice. Someone must have it.

A red car suites shiney wheels quite well. Or if you want to keep that 80's look maybe some smaller two piece wheels. 15 or 16X8 weaved wheels. Or maybe a minilite kind of style.

Wow awesome history. I want it. But I would want to drive it every day! Wouldn't be able to stop myself.

THought it would be something like that. Will check it 2moro. Just pulled the one off the spare peddle box I have. Broken. lol

My brake check light came on during the weekend. And found that I have no brake lights. Sometimes I get one though. Checked all the fuses and found a blowen one. Replaced it. Then about 20 mins later it popped again. Changed the two brake light bulbs just in case. Cleaned all the contacts for them. Is there any common faults I can check for?

Beach Road off Mellons Bay road. Towards the bottom. Can't miss it if your BMW radar is turned on.

No I havent been back. The car is in Howick. Reg is still alive though.

235.2hp/tonne but this figure is ATW not flywheel 117.6/litre Say if I loose 25% through the drivetrain that makes 294hp/tonne 147/litre But this is on my Nissan 180SX so I guess it doesn't count. Wonder how many horses got away in my 325 thats done 295,000kms. Will dyno next month. Oh and I just realised that the 180 weighs less than the standard weight now. Was just going by stock weight. No idea what it weighs now though.

Oh they were great until something went wrong. Then they just thought I wouldn't mind. I use to import damaged cars for years before the rule changes. My stories are not the worst of them floating around in NZ about Tau.

Huh what? Your link goes to a vid of the DTM E30 M3. The real one. That isn't drifting.

Yeah I have seen this happen a few times in Queen street. Felt real bad for some young dude driving his Dad's pride and joy Ford Falcon (Real old shape cool looking). Some big islander just opened his door, ripped him out jumped in, beat on the passengers till they ditched then took off. No insurance. Kid was driving it as a reward for passing his exams. All happened so fast nobody got a chance to help. Make sure your doors are always locked. Are Tazers legal in NZ? Might be a good idea to carry one? Or Mase.

Lets just say I purchased about 12 cars from them. The last batch was a disaster. Two 98 Legacy Wagons that were in a "Running and Driving" status. A 00 VR4 and an Evo 6. The Evo was stolen even before it left Japan. Took me months to get money back. 00 Vr4's suspention was meant to be fixed but they just tried welding the steering arms to the hub which of course broke. The two legacy's had snapped cam belts and needed engine rebuilds. They quite often lie about the damage on the cars. Some of the cars you see in the photos are not the cars you are getting.