Driftit

Replacing the viscous fan is always risky. Electric fans need to be wired in with a thermoswitch. The amount of times I have heard people say that they wont forget to turn it on. And then they cook their motors. There is also a bigger risk of the electric fan crapping out and you not knowing till its too late. Stick with the viscous. The gains would be minimal anyway. An airbox is better for giving the motor cold air. If you are going to get a pod filter make sure you get a divider so that the pod is only getting colder air. I am going to make up a nice stainless airbox soon. Will make it in a way that can reproduce them. Will put them up on the site soon. As for the exhaust. My is OMG!! loud at the moment. I am keeping the twin pipes all the way from the motor but ditching the factory mufflers and cat. Will run one high flowing muffler to get a little back pressure and stop the OMG loud at around 2000 - 3000rpm.

Hmmm lucky you brought up this post again. I have the same green box MC sitting ready to go in. Might take it back and get a kit instead. Got mine from BNT.

There is a carbon one on Ebay that is smaller than that man. Just type in E30 Carbon spoiler. Cheap too.

Lol Kind of like marriage from what I hear.

Not cheap any more man. And they are the wheel of choice for the E30 series cars. Hence why you can't find any.

Will give you a yell in the morn. I do need to get this car back on the road asap though.

Is the eta better or worse than the normal Euro spec 325?

Looking for the following parts for my E30 325 Front panel in Platnengrun - Metalic would be preffered but any will do as long as it is mint condition. And the these three supports. Would be bonus if they came as one piece. Oh and my alternator munched on my radiator hose. So one of them too. Also would like a nice looking lower lip too. Must have hole for oil cooler. Cheers Dan 0211 88 77 33 Edit. I want the supports with all brakets to attach back to chassis rails if possible.

Bit far at this stage. I will get in touch if I cant find some.

Hey people. After rear trailing arms from an E30 with 4 wheel disc brakes. Am converting my drums to discs. Need Trailing arms Calipers and brackets Handbrake cable All needs to be from a car with 4 wheel discs. Cheers Call or txt on 0211887733 Or reply or PM Cheers Dan

Very nice cars. And you just scared me away from Kids for life.

You will need to tighten up that sloppy BMW rear end man. And dont even bother drifting on the shitty viscous LSD's. Invest in a mechanical 1.5 or 2 way. It makes it so much more predictable. And with the BMW's being quite snappy in a slide you want them to be more predictable. Dont bother with the over priced 2jz. Go for a 2nd Gen 1jz. Usually alot cheaper. Make sure you look into where you should mount the motor to avoid unbalancing the front end. Last thing you want is an understeering pig. But the toyota motors are a good choice. A stock 1jz will make you enough power. You will also have to get some rear and front camber arms. Can you get them for E36? Brace her up too. Make the rear arms and subframe as hard mounted to the body as possible. Let me know if you want to borrow the gaurd roller.

Just read your txt. But had no credit man. lol. Handbrake.

When building my 180sx I made sure I had a cert. The car gets alot of attention from the police. But once they see the cert they are happy with me. And alot of my mods were done in Japan. So $500 assured me the car is still to a safe standard. That $500 can save you thousands if you get done at one of those full on check points where they have LTSA guys working. I would like to see car crushers. I think it is a good idea. Give the person 2 weeks to apeal. Most will let there car go. A deregd car on the road gets handed out about $1000 worth of instant fines anyway.

Cool. Now to buy some.

Vote me as your dictator. I will make sure nothing is ever PC.

Hey people. Time to convert my drums to discs on my E30 series car. Can someone confirm the parts required to do so. Apparently I need Rear trailing arms, calipers, caliper braket, and the E-Brake cable from a car with rear discs. Is this all? I am replacing all the bushes at the same time. Cheers Dan

I had a read around. And it looks like the only way you can get all the options is by calling up a dealer and giving them you chassis code. Or on some models you can lift up the back seat and read the specs there.

I have replaced everything with new items. New EBC rotors, rebuilt calipers, EBC braided lines, new master cyl. Have two spare rebuilt calipers too. So cheap to rebuild I thought I may aswell.

Yeah thats what I was thinking. The cars are light and slow. Will just keep checking it to be safe.

Yeah will get onto this. Dont really want to waste my nice high temp fluid though. So yeah I am also keen to know when it goes from old to new. It does mention in that guide a brand that makes two different colors. Now that would be handy. And if any seasoned E30 Race series driver who is using hi temp fluid reads this. How often are you changing your fluid. From what I understand it should be after every race weekend.

Cheers. Done it quite a few times just to get rid of air in the lines. But was wondering if there was an easy process to drain it 100%.

How do I go about doing this? Is it an easy task to do on your driveway or is there special tools to do it? This is for my race series car which is not yet going. I am installing my new callipers, rotors, and braided lines. Whats the process to drain it all out?

Yeah thats it. Cheers.

Cant find the link for that site that has all the specs of your car. Thought I had saved it but turns out I saved realoem.com twice. Someone must have it.