pureboiracer

could be a few things... igniter module sitting on the firewall about 5cm by 5cm with 2 plugs in it, slightly to the left of the center. check that. check for power to the coil as said above when ign is on... check to see if spark is coming out of the coil and check the coil to dizzy lead is ok.. if there is no spark at all then it will be something to do with the low current side of the circuit or something around the coil.. it wont be the dizzy. but just check the leads anyway. check to see if you have fuel also. if not then mabey a faulty ecu. could be many more things but thats the 1st things to try... have you done any work on the car since it last ran?

+1 for race series.... in a couple of years i will.... lol nath atleast your bonnets still intact...

they regs are very grey about exhaust noise. most wof places wont have a meter and if they do they wont be able to test it in the correct way. there are a couple of certified places around that can test it. check on the ltsa website http://www.nzta.govt.nz/search/index.html put in exhaust noise in the search bar. should give you some info. as for the ticket, im not sure about the green sticker but i believe it is up to the cops discretion on weather or not he thinks it too loud. from my experience the normal procedure is he will give you a ticket for having an ineffective exhaust that can be waived if you get it tested and its ok.. but i dont know if any of that is concrete

^yes and no.... theres abit more to it than that. but still its not hard to become qualled... whats the problem apex? pm me if you have electrical problems with ur e30 i may be able to help... done enough of them...

if you have another box to compare it to then you will see that the 260s are a bit bigger and heavier...

sorry sold....

is it me or when a bemer is lowerd to say 70 or 80mm off the ground it doesnt look that conspicuous???

now that is just stupid.... some people....

how do they sit and feel in the car? do you know the drop?

looks alot better now mate..... let me know how those springs feel when you drive it so i know if i should use the fronts or not.

just get andrew to reflash the rear ride height part of ur ecu man... thatl fix it.

we will try those other springs tonight. i got spring pads too incase.... and i have more bad e30 luck to tell you about.... lol....

anyone had experience with an e30 running on either 98oct with 10%ethanol or straight av gas???

now thats a cool 1st car.

^na its just like a mutual understandind between owner and car, the car knows it will break. you know it will break. you just take fixing it as a part of everyday e30 life.

looks better with those wheels man. gl with sale..

yeap same plug...

that is the plug that has to be changed when going from ljet to motronic. the round one (or square if pfl) by the fuse box for the engine loom. if you can, use a loom that came out of a car with the same motor and engine management system as what you are going to put it, ie pfl motor i with motronic 1.1 then get the loom that suits a pfl 325i you catch the drift? as long as that plug matches up the rest will be easy.

^have updated list

star of the show wants to see his role on the big screen.. can you blame him?

my black car, blown 3 tyres, all on the same wheel. many times of getting stuck with flat battery thanks to current draw, managed to knock the car off the jack without a rear wheel on when i got a flat all 3 flats occured on the motorway have rust coming through my doors someone stole my carbon boot badge smashed the front valance into a parking stop and scratched it up had both front wheel bearings crap out had a rear window motor crap out and fried the loom inside the door race car put rod out side of block blew up clutch blew up g.box left wheels loose smashed windscreen (for no good reason) had a few occurances where for one reason or another the car hasnt been runing due to wiring problems or something. blew rad hose on the motorway had stone go through the radiatior. had a problem with my altinator which caused my bat to go flat in the middle of makra at about 3am now have completely rooted rear shocks sticky brake calliper destroyed my front pads (expensive pads) took about 2 months to establish what rotors went on the front, only to find out they are custom. had rust in the sills, had rust in the firewall has rust in the door got it impounded and lost my liscence. blew out all my coolant just before i got on the track ran it out of brake fluid in the middle of welly thanks to a split hose blew several diffs blew a cv destroyed driveshaft hanger bearing smashed wingmirror on fence the other day when backing out of where it lives. hit the pole part of the fence when driving it into where it lives on the left front panel. car currently runs like crap and wouldnot go above 4000rpm the other day. several waterleaks into cabbin had no indicators or wipers working for a while, took a while to find that problem destroyed all rear suspension bushes (still havent fixed) had to buy 4 new tyres when i got the car as they were fffffaaaaarrrrddddd snapped off exhaust stud in manifold and had to get it drilled out on the day of scruit have destroyed a relatively new control arm bush got rear ended on the motorway at melling lights, has pushed in all the rear of the car... still not fixed because of crash the boot doesnot seal so leaks water split fuel line several instances of airleaks grinding something (cant remember what and dropped angle grinder on my leg) when mounting my fire exstiguisher, didnt look and drilled into brake line. Not including any maintanence stuff umm thats all i can think of off the top of my head... no doubt theres more

^if my memory serves my right the shell he has picked up has no current loom in it..

yeah they are the only things that could cause an issue... should be pretty straight forward once you get stuck into it..

you will probs have to do something with either the fuel pump, or the wiring, as the facelifts have an intank pump instead of inline. head and tail light plugs may or may not be different. suspension will all go in ok, motor and box will all bolt up ok. there may also be extra wiring for the rear doors that are in the pfl loom. mabey not though. depends on elec windows etc... yes diff will bolt in. may be worth putting in the 325i axels though. may need to change front subframe... i am unsure about that. dash and dash wiring will go in the new shell all ok. thats about all i can think of. apart from that it will be pretty much a straight swap.

judging by the amount of crap that has blocked it up i would recomment a new thermostat, also putting a hosepipe through your radiator and through your motor. to get that part (thermostat housing off you will need to undo the 2 13mm bolts holding it to the block, you will also need to loosen your fuel rail and remove any sensors in it as they will hit on the fuel rail when trying to remove. once removed replace with a good unit. new thermostat, and just check the condition of the hoses while your at it. flush it all out as well as you can with the garden hose, refit all parts, seal between the thermostat housing and the block with a gasket, or liquid rtv. and bleed cooling system with good coolant.