pureboiracer

um small and meduim i believe. probably one of the most common ratios so not too expensive either. you shouldnt need to change your driveshaft or axles to change from small to medium.

if the vibration was from air in the system it would only vibrate when you turn the wheel.. if that is the case then i suspect thats what it would be. if not, have you checked that the motor or exhaust isnot touching the steering rack or collum or anything?

youve confused yourself a little there mate, longer is what your after. the diff you have currently got is a short ratio, because its all accel and no top end, a long ratio is lots of top end. from reading your post i am unsure on weather you put your 2l motor into a 2.5 shell or other way around... if its a 2.0l i would say run something near a 3.9 or a 4.1 if its the 2.5 motor you want something near a 3.64

my man.

not a bad lil wagon you got there..

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....o+brake+upgrade make me an offer.. im still on the fence about selling...

long but cool...

"its lush"?? now i feel like im back in england again.... cant say i have used mothers before, but have heard good things.

il take em...

the front is 90mm already... i have some springs that are 20mm shorter than whats in it at the moment. they will be going in when i get a chance.... racecar is keeping me on my toes at the moment.

it basically acts much like a lever. if you think of a lever and then imagine the pivot point to be the inner ball joint then the further out from that ball joint the swaybars connected to the more leverage it will have and the smaller the swaybar has to be.

yyyyuuummmmmm.. my fav bmws are sideways ones.

you are well within your rights to supply your own parts, but by the sounds of it they are getting genuine parts, just keep in mind that if you supply your own parts and the the part fails there is no comeback on the garage, also aftermarket parts dont usually hold up as well as genuine or have the kind of warranty that genuine stuff does... not always but quite often. so if i were you i would check to see what kind of parts they are pricing and check the warrantys of the aftermarket parts that you want to supply.

well if your pcv valve has come off and you are leaking oil out the hole then it is safe to assume that your rough idle/ hard starting is the airleak from the pcv valve hose.

look closely.. even the caps toast.

1987 austin mini, 1l manual accuired when i was 12, rebuilt it with my dad. lives in england waiting for a piant job and a shipping container... (centimental.) and technically its still mine.. 1996 toyota levin... 4afe boring peice of .... that i learnt in. 1985 320i silver m20b20 manual... 1987 honda crx... (dont worry, purely buisness deal.) 1989 holden barina 1.3 suzuki swift motor, that car was awsome. it flew got thrashed, put through paddocks, pushed my friends car along the motorway, and got sold for more than i payed. 1986 mitsi cordia... still have a soft spot for that car... 1987 e30 325i (current racecar) 2002 320i that was i nice car... ohwell 1990 325i (aka drte30) that is all..

i forget her name... i met her down at turners a few years back... ... hold on.. was it kym???

i forget her name... i met her down at turners a few years back...

really? i would imagen the e34 to be a bit like drifting a bus.... just going by how they look... never driven one.

^+1. very common to find broken wires or moisture in the plugs there.

yeah i can see how you could have done that..... i love that corner..... esp at about 80 in 3rd

it looks alright imo. im not mad at it.

^you kept that quiet.... yes totally agree with the lsd= safe comment.. found this out with a e30 m52...

^true but when you get an lsd going then your up for serious sideways.

gotta love these cars