charles28

The one they call "Track limited" is fully catless. Unlikely to be caught tbh.

It is a little silly haha Its funny when a Dodge Hellcat Redeye with massive slicks etc, massive burnout does 11.9 and then I do 11.1 with a tiny burnout and transmission mis shift slowing me down lol

Although I own an N54 car and love it, not sure i'd recommend it to a buyer that wasn't good at DIY and if you're good at DIY the warranty is pointless. Just my 2c.

Yesterday I went back to the Drag strip with the intention of hitting the 10s. My car now has direct port methanol and is sitting around 600whp, I also got some 275/40/R17 Hoosiers. First few runs were OK, but my 60 foot was a bit average. Finally when I started working it out my trans decided it doesn't like this power level haha. So I managed a compromised 11.155 @ 125.6MPH You can see the issue on the 100-200 etc from dragy, transmission miss shift 3rd to 4th gear. I am going to install a sonnax zip kit and go custom tcu tune with Rod Sutphin and try again late January. VID_207160423_071904_851.mp4 VID_20241118_145206_992.mp4.mov

Managed 11.155 @125.6MPH this time, but transmission wouldn't shift from 3rd to 4th, so could have been a 10.

I tuned mine with MHD, you can easily buy this online and buy an MHD WiFi OBD adapter to connect with the phone app. My 116i now does 0-100 6.29 and 1/4 mile low 14 on my dragy. Stock was 0-100 8.7 and low 16 quarter mile.

Also the whole N54 vs N55, thing, both have similar issues regarding valve cover, oil filter housing gasket leaks, sump gasket, etc. N55 has valvetronic issues that can cost big $ to fix, N54 has injector issues that cost big $ to fix.. Both are potential money pits, but getting a newer 2014+ N55 is still more sensible, N54 is getting on.

EWG M135i model has a better electronic wastegate turbo and slightly bigger compressor wheel. If Manufactured late 2013 + they are all this type. The Rod bearings were also revised. Go for an F20 M135i or F22 M235i with the ZF8 as a good reliable option. (All M235i are EWG) Just make sure you upgrade the plastic charge pipe to a metal one, as they constantly break now days even on stock tunes.

F20 M135i is better than the E82 135i, the ZF8 Gearbox is nicer than the DCT overall for daily use, the later version of the N55 has less issues too. (Aim for 2014 or newer with F20 M135i, EWG model). I've driven both, I have an N54 135i as that is better than N55 well not better, just way faster for less money on mods.. sort of... it owes me stupid money now haha.

On his newer video he is B58 swapping that car though

I've worked out a cost effective solution. Along with upgraded pots in my oem calipers I'll use oem M3 CSL 345x28mm rotors.

My 135i has over 600bhp, so the stock Calipers and Discs struggle. I have Ferodo DS2500 pads and good fluid, however I don't think this is enough haha. Is there a more cost effect upgrade for me other than buying SLG adapters, F80/f82 Calipers, Discs and pads?

I went with double sided 3m tape.

130i is pretty reliable, N52 engine is one of BMW's best, but get the newer one with the black beauty cover if you can.

All I do is hold volume down and channel down buttons on steering wheel for a second and then select map with volume up and down, it's instant, rpm needle changes position so you know which map you selected.

Very nice, I think they are about the best M car ever made.

Small update: Went back to the Dyno last week with a new tune. I am now using MHD+ Multi Map, as having just one full send map isn't that useful, especially this time of the year. Map 1: 16psi made 427whp and 577nm (This map is all I need on the street). Map 2: 21psi made 476whp and 663nm Map 3: 26psi Made 565whp and 863nm. You can however see quite a nasty dip up top especially on the high power map. (that map was actually 560whp and 808nm). This is likely a vanos tuning issue, my tuner has sent another revision, but also a result of timing corrections. I flash my old tune, which is the grey line on the dyno sheet, however the power still dropped off and has a dangerous amount of torque down low (Bendy Rod zone). The car pulled a bit of timing up top which robbed power, the ramp rate on the dyno was 2x more than doing a 4th gear street pull and the load was set to heavy on the Dynapack. The timing corrections are a lot better on the street.

Doesn't sound right at all, my 2008 135i modded with 419wkw (double factory power) averages 12-13L/100km in city traffic. You might want to get it checked at the dealer or euro specialist.

Yeah, its a great wee car the 130i Kiwi Car life fella has just sold it and bought an E46 M3 with dodgy SMG that will get manual swap.

He wasn't that interested in power, as he was meant to be comparing a "stock" 135i to his car lol. Was probably around 420whp still though, got an LSD now which has helped it out.

Thanks, the Apex wheels and Le Mans blue help it stand out a bit.

130i vs 135i Comparison vid. My car was de-tuned for this vid, at his request

the new HPFP was a dud. Appears Marelli HPFP is garbage. Although I suspect the one I got was counterfeit as it looks the same as the aliexpress ones other than a Marelli sticker.

My HPFP was getting dodgy, error codes and rough running from cold, rail pressure drops even at idle now and then. It could however maintain rail pressure at high rpm, but.not aswell as it should have. Yesterday I replaced it with a marelli magneti branded hpfp, I now have the opposite issue. My cold start, idle and cruise rail pressure looks good. However at wide open throttle the pressure crashes over 5000rpm. See log: https://datazap.me/u/charlesb/rail-pressure-crash-map-1?log=0&data=3-4-21-22 Has anyone used this brand before?

Bmw dealer, mate got them at trade for me, still 4500 bucks