e30ftw

Lol

I think he meant driveshaft

Still undecided, Lots of interest shown and it's swinging me close to doing it. But I gave it a clean and left it out front, A view like this out my room window isn't helping me wanna get rid of it ha.

Nothing is 100% just yet, I'm torn on the whole thing as I'm waaaaay to attached to just let it all go. But to answer a few questions, 7,000 without the wheels Only half the conversion, driveshaft, pedals, clutch lines and cylinders. It is royal blue metallic. Yes facelift. And not sure, depends how complete it is. Front 51mm struts shortened 56mm (yes the strut housing shortened) with koni adjustable shocks, 440 pound springs, adjustable perches, camber / caster adjustable top hats. Rear 650 pound 5" springs, adjustable perches, bilstein shortened shocks.

pwned. I can't for the life of me figure out what I would get if I sold my e30. I'd 95% likely buy another e30, which makes me think why bother sell mine when I have some hard to find stuff that I'd probably never get my hands on again ha. Time for my m50b28 build me thinks.

Need money and I can't keep dumping money into my e30 so I am considering selling it, Best way is to strip it because as a whole it probably wouldn't get as much. basically what is up for grabs: Fully adjustable ground control coilovers - $1600 4 door m-tech2 body kit genuine, no spoiler. $2000 3.64 LSD $800 m50 swap, engine, box, everything to do the swap including brand new mounts, modified exhaust and full 2.5" exhaust $2200 e30 manual conversion bits $200 4 door rolling body (can do with the ground controls as it's certified for them) front strut brace battery to boot conversion maplight mirror interior stuff rear disc conversion If theres enough interest in the above then I may be motivated enough to part it out.

Yeah it's top end performance where I got my m20 headstuds from. VAC motorsports do them too possibly.

Pair of brand new OEM E34 M20 65mm (5mm taller than usual) engine mounts. $60 ono for the pair shipped. Good for e34 with m20.. Or e30 m50 swaps.

Ok f*ck that , spent all morning putting the sump and subframe in before work and i couldn't even figure out the belt right at the end haha. Fail.

Is the middle one the tensioner? I can't see anything cos of how close it sits lul .. If so then whoops.

I couldn't get it over the 4 pulleys then across over the middle one and that was with the tensioner off. Maybe the pump isn't on properly or something.. Don't see how though.

Whats the easiest way to get it on? Reset the tensioner position, put the belt on and release the tensioner...not hard to do

Ok, so how do you put it on that way? I can't get it around all 4 pulleys + the middle one, let alone the tensioner too.

How does the front drive belt go on? I have tried it every way I can think of and it's loose as f*ck, tensioner pulley does nothing. I only pulled it off cos It was too tight to fit around the PS pump so took the whole thing off to start from scratch.

Well it's at it's certed height and engine is mounted correctly so I guess it's practical. It's a Rangi mod sump not a race sump.

And A LOT like your new one

It's only lost 1L out of 7L capacity, The pickup has been shortened too obviously. But it's not exactly a race car it's more a cruise around DD so blehhh makes it more practical to drive now anyway.

BIG thanks to Matty104 for doing this.

I wondered were you got to with this. Still the same or made changes? I see the turbos different?

Saw you driving it today, looks good. Haven't seen it around in a long time

Haha. Goodluck with the sale man, not cool that your finally leaving e30 ownership!

Yeah it most likely will. The sensor will have 3 pins, 1 for power, 1 for low speed and other for high speed.

Nah not going there. My mates dad works at Weldwell in napier, hes hooked me up with a couple welder/fabricators to see that should be able to do it. But yeah crack will be welded, then will be raised to where you see the front of pan dip, which is in line with a line around the whole sump and goes just over the sump drain plug.

Yeah I am having it properlly tig welded, have been told $60 to tig the crack. Going to cost abit more to have the bottem cut, flat bit welded up abit higher but the only issue is figuring how to get around the drain plug and raising that or as matt suggested weld in some thicker alumnium to replace the cast so it's alot stronger but I would prefer it raised anyway.

No, Steering rack is way higher than the sump, the m50 sump pokes down another 20-30mm from the front subframe. Look at marks car he cracked a sump too and isn't as low as mine is.