nath

Black E30 tech2 coupe with trademe "old skool" replica wheels and upward slaning exhaust tips stalling this evening at nelson street.

Hahah looking at his nz websites, he mentions other "very close friends"! Popular guy.

Aside from the fact that yes; I remember when this sort of style/car was de rigueur c.2000, are those stockings on the rear lights?!! Those wheels used to be IT in their day. I can almost remember what they are called.

They weren't awful that long ago, and still nicer than most of the black/coloured centred wheels people are whacking on their cars! Popular 2004-6ish IIRC

Although he may be an exception, I find that there is no one less genuine than someone who uses the terms "good friend of mine" and "very close friend of mine"

An M10 E30 will backfire with moisture in the distributor, long cranking then when it finally fires it backfires. Trust me, I know!

Good idea to cntact head office. Be nice about it, don't come across as being entitled to redress. Grey area really as it was the cars fault, not Pit Stop's and not your own direct. you do however own the car. Mind you, cars can generally backfire fine without damaging mufflers. Unsure of what goes on in different backfire situations mind.

Markets change. More people can afford cars than ever and thus there will be much less people who now buy cars and are at the same time interested in car racing. We nonetheless get whiffs of status or elitism in car racing so any whiff of that in our road car makes us feel as if some of that bona fide race heritage has rubbed off on us. The driving dollar demands a usable car, and that means luxury in these price ranges. Television and the internet encourage us to increase status and visual appeal at all (and usually easiest route) costs, and so BMW makes a car for us.

That looks really nice man, well done you must be stoked with that. Minus stickers (personal I understand)

Hi Guys I have a ZF 4HP22 auto transmission which produces a load- dependent shudder changing from 2nd to third gear (takeoff speed from a standstill). I Think it is those gears and not 1st to 2nd. All other gears are fine, there is no slippage or flare anywhere or reverse. Any thoughts on this? The driveshaft etc is all covered by a heat sheild and under that are 2 large exhausts so I cannot at this stage see the flex disc coupling etc. Any useful info or experience? Cheers. nathan

Over the last couple of years we have seen more and more 'fake' results come up in very specific searches that lead us to sites which masquerade as being helpful to our aim but once there are full of advertising for cheap gym secrets and beauty tips. Some websites show supposed specs or reviews of cars for instance; when they have just stolen the info automatically from the internet and slotted it into their pre- positioned text gaps by robot. Then it will say "click here for best price on Bugatti Royale Typ 41 guaranteed". What a crock. Where is this trend leading to? Will search engines smarten up to it? The days of browsing all of the internet for hidden or independent gems of information seem to be over or very rare with all of the above crap that is apparently just as relevant. Thoughts?

Is dudlee alive again?

Sorry there may be confusion: This is for sale, the whole new timing chain plus link. I say master to differ it from the endless chains available. When I had it done on my old E30 is was .5 hours labour IIRC

It comes and goes with temp and viscosity, but with the car for sale I dont want to put more dead money into it that would only have appeased my OCD tendencies anyhow.

Looking at advertisement criticism objectively; people can say what they like, it's up to the buyer to take it seriously or not. We mustn't lose sleep over the fact that people arent perfect and concentrate their interests elsewhere of cars specification.

I bought this for my car thinking that I would keep it, I am not. Fitting a new chain to my last M10 made it as quiet as a mouse with only injector noise. Forget what people say about how they are just noisy engines. Takes about half an hour to wind on and wind the old one off. paid $170 yours for $100

A good start would be taking the whole intake assembly from the throttle body back apart, purchase the appropriate crc/ carb cleaners/ contact cleaners and deal to each component and also test them for correct resistances and voltages etc. Further than that would be willy nilly replacement of parts such as ECU. This is assuming that there isnt a gaping whole in the replaced gasket.

Firstly, is the idly control valve buzzing when the car is turned on? It should. Also it will need to be clean and free of crap that may jam it. The thermo time switch or coolant temp sensor (cant remember what it is called on motronic) needs to run open circuit when cold, and increasing resistance to closed when hot. The original sensors were blue top, I think they are black now. The ECU can blow one of the circuits also which controls the ICV operation. Both the sensor and the ECU went on an m20 I had once at the same time, causing a lot of confusion as no one test for failure worked.

Bump for post cleanup, Apologies for playing around with the price so much, different factors such as new parts come into it but this is the price now. $2000

Removed faulty heater valve, drilled out rivets, took valve apart, cleaned it all up etc etc(long process) back together refitted and heater now works fine. Didnt do much else special to bleed the coolant but seems fine now. Must have been an air lock or some such from the stuck heater. Car is finally up to scratch. Chris: Yep put that radiator in cheers. Unsure if it has enough flow actually, but all good.

Non- starting 328i with E34 throwing star wheels. $1500 asking price Broken 328i People probably have their sneaky eyes on this already, thought I would point out the bargain to the rest of you.

Hi Guys Now that I've been told there is nothing wrong with my steering and after getting all new tyres, I've moved to the next task. Ive finally gotten around to replacing my radiator, and have a problem. Upon refilling the coolant and taking reasonable steps to help the system bleed itself (running to temp with cap off etc) the heater has decided not to work anymore, and the radiator top tank (no expansion tank on these) started to bulge as the temp needle went past half way on a drive. Symptoms that could mean something to someone: Coolant level is seen to drop as the car is revved, when looking with radiator cap removed. Hose coming from block to heater is warm, return hose is less warm, not cold though. All hoses when squeezed seem to be full of water. -Could the fluid drop indicate lack of NPSH and thus major trapped air that is having a vacuum applied to it as the revs are increased? -Is my heater just stuffed to add insult to injury? (the valve tests 12V on full closed cold, ~0V at heated temperatures) -Air expands at a greater rate than water. This may explain my pressure probmlem, but not the fact that the radiator isnt releasing it. Any help appreciated, I have flushed and changed countless cars' cooling systems before, never had this problem.

I love this (critique). It's a CL63, the rego says so. Pretty sure the Dealer who sold it to it's single owner would have known a thing or two about it's top model Some things in this world are exactly how they seem

Good call, collectable value or much value at all for that matter has largely been lost with the rate that they pump out AMG cars and M cars etc now. the W211 E55/63 must be the most common E class on the roads in auckland

Bushes in and done