nath

1986 318iA 4 door 138,0000 km WOF and Reg' until October and August respectively Sunroof Surprisingly 'peppy' around town etc! Idles excellently with no miss Auto changes perfectly smoothly with no lag or jolt Steering is tighter and sharper than any E30 I have owned Shocks have no bounce at all Original Anti- Theft BMW stereo with code 1 family owner until now No rust in sunroof, rear corners, tail lights etc or anywhere Good tyres all 'round Drivers door keyhole unlocks but doesnt lock at the moment? Locks fine from inside etc Just spent around $1000 on: radiator replaced new control arm bushes new thermostat Brand new non- rubbish tyres New oil and filter New drivers seat not shown in photos excellent classic to keep as is, or solid rust free base for something more interesting. $2000 Car is located Takapuna.

Hey my first race of the series we only just missed a placing! Watch it. edit: Oh I get it, its a gay joke. Guess I'm not in the mood tonight

I am a Mechanical engineer. Doing further study to become a better mechanical engineer.

I have 60 polos to whack a white logo on the breast of. Does anyone here do it, and at what cost? Auckland, or somewhere not too far to ship. Cheers Nathan

I've only had 6, why would I want another? Honestly Max.

Hi Guys, wanted as above. Also if anyone has rear sway bar/ bigger front one also. Auckland, but shipping is ok. Cheers

Cheers for everything Jono. What is the new Job? From the amount of general words used in people's congratulatory messages I could guess that you have become a spy!

Well done; you really have saved a car. Terrible matt paint jobs like it had just keep it in progressively worse ownership until soon after it is wrecked.

I race a Ross 930 in the PCC winter series.

I'm shielding my head as I say this in fear of starting that old chestnut up again, but: BMW will fit ACS kits, badges, performance upgrades how you like, when you like and to what level they/ you like. S5 nomenclature as time goes on has become less strictly indicative as M5 or B10. End. Over priced, but not my business. Good luck seller.

You can't sell luxury goods to luxury buyers at a low price. High price is part of the exclusivity which that market strives for. There is an amount of satisfaction in being able to pay a high price for something provided that it means someone else cannot. Niche etc...

There is a bunch isn't there? 'Been discussed on here before, I'm sure Sam can tell us how many were kitted up as S5's

Yeah I got that air dam from the other Nathan on here

I imagine the km's are getting a bit high..... time to sell to me. Must be the most un- used 'driven' car on this forum!

I like how effective a change the wrap is, but can I just say that the contrasting carbon fibre- look stuff seems like the equivalent of black- centred cheap cast aftermarket alloy wheels with inappropriately deep dish. I like the flat grey.

I wonder, is BMW's market and customer profile changing, or are they changing it? Either could be believed. It could of course be that all brand's markets have changed and are demanding things that only this technology can satisfy.

I recommend AA for price and most of all service. 'Am pretty sure that STATE have other priorities than car insurance, as there seem to be so many complaints about theirs.

Too much hair. I would prefer something easier maintenance, like a doberman

Wicked! Assuming that blue M5's werent exactly common here, I remember when that car was near new with it's original owner :S

I cant comment specifically on the A4 1.8T But so far as 90's turbo Audis go, I once owned an original S4 2.2 20V turbo. It had a marvellous engine with a shitload of torque that was all available at 1900rpm. Electrically it was a bit of a pig, not the major things but just self- check system for bulbs etc was a real pain. The ZF box was excellent. Handling was pretty poor, it seemed to have standard super- high quattro suspension. I hear that since my ownership, the 'bulletproof' engine has needed a new head. Poor maintenance of things such as the N75 valve are the little things that let them down as they get older, so a service history would be helpful. Pretty sure that electrics are the biggest second hand issue on Audis. I hear that good easy gains can be had from the 1.8T motor also, with some having MTM upgrades already (careful of fakes, there isnt really much to tell you if its genuine or not). A 286(?)HP MTM 1.8T A4 isn't too hard to come across.

I assume you mean that it is skewed around the vertical axis? Mine was, the rubber bushes in the alternator mount had gone soft. a temp fix was to remove them and reinstall so that the pressure is now on the 'good' part of the rubber. Or just get new ones or whip some up from nylon.

I've blown a circuit in my ECU by cleaning the engine before, proceed with caution! Didn't think it would happen to me, and it was a real pain to diagnose

Ooh sorry no I dont, I remember reading it from the owners manual. The internet has confkicting info I feel. At the end of the day the best timing for mine was just when it 'felt' right. My notes for you were ideal, as it is hard to actually have a perfect condition AFM etc

I currently have this problem on a car. It is hard to conform to a rule which has financial implications which seems to suggest that children only travel in cars with airbags that have occupancy sensors, which is a ridiculous assumption. The only just argument that I can be sure of is "exactly what goes on in the emulator, how reliable is it and how might it affect my other systems presuming it hasn't been through rigorous testing?". The cars which are having this problem tend to be in the $3- 6 thousand dollar bracket, which at Up to $1000 to repair isn't a wise financial move. A very tough spot.

Having been through the ringer with an M10 on my old E30: -AAV (auxilliary air valve) check its operation by putting in freezer to check that it closes, and heating to check that it opens. It does not have full open to full closed travel ever, but can be adjusted to bias either way. Operated by way of bimetallic strip. -AFM (airflow meter) make sure that it has not been tampered with and is in good condition inside etc. -Distributor: make sure the timing has been set perfectly. Naturally the dizzy cap and rotor should be in good condition also. -Throttle air bypass screw: This should be adjusted to a perfectly timed engine, to give correct idle speed when hot. -5th cold start injector: can be tested by removing from manifold and when cold, cranking the starter with the injector going into a container. it should squirt only when cranking and no other time. As far as I can remember, those are all that is involved in the jetronic starting. There may be more that I have forgoytten but I don't think so.