petone

Welcome Not sure on 5 series but if they like the 3 then they probably have 5.25" speakers. So if you want a clean and simple install get 5.25. On the other hand its not too hard to make 6.5" fit. I squeezed 6.5 into the kick panels in my E30 so you should be able to easily manage it in the E34. As for the amp is it under the parcel tray? Otherwise just follow the wires. I don't know about the stereo in E34 but i asume the amp will just drive the current 5.25 speakers? Why don't you just install your sub and amp as you would normally. Then put your new speakers in place of the old factory ones, using the same wires and then hook up your headunit to the factory RCA and you don't even have to rewire. Hope that helps and makes sense.

did you put in a new pressure plate when you did the conversion? It seems like a lot of clucth parts are crapping out when people are putting them back in the cars after they been sitting around for a while. Any reason for this?

Yeah M10 has adjustable valves and does the little ticking as well. Its normally not doing any harm but if it gets bad you could be losing power or putting extra strain on the rocker arms and valve gear. Vent, you noise could be the exhaust nocking against something, my one did the same thing for a bit. From the noise it was making i didn't think thats what it would be but sure enough it was.

You can do the valve adjust yourself easy enough. You need torque wrench, valve cover gasket, feeler gauges plus a few other tools which i'm not exactly sure on, just stuff like a stiff wire to move adjusters and a 10mm spanner etc. There are plenty of write ups on different tech sites, search around for them. Other than time the only cost is valve cover gasket., which is $17 for M10 i think. a gasket for you M20 shouldn't be too much more. Don't expect the noise to go away completly though, its normal for all e30 to have a quiet ticking noise.

I reckon about 90% of drivers on NZ roads would travel at 10K over the limit.

No markings or anything like that on it? I agree with carl on Mtech1 side and rear interesting how that front just sits over the stock valance.

Hmm, something RWD and manual. Maybe a Silvia, AE86, 190E would be cool also. I find my car way easier to work on than my mates honda, everything is so spread out and much simpler than the honda.

Getting performance tyres is always more expensive than its seems, as well as the tyres themselves costing more they don't last as long so you have to buy them more often. Grant, could you explain some more about the GT Radials? did they wear fast or poor grip, or both Hmm, i want 15's so i can get T1-R. Since Cdrive come in 60 profile i'm looking at some of those.

When you wire up your new head unit DONT even think about just twisting the wires together. Either solder them together with heatshrink over top or use crimp connections.

I'm not sure on this but i thought the 2.5 head was better than the 2.7 and when the 2.5 head is on the 2.7 block it gave you lower compression anyway?

Ouch, atleast he had the brains to leave the road, if it had been a head on the outcome WOULD have been much worse...

Had a look at pick a part in the hutt today and they had an old 735 sitting there. Just thought someone might be interested in the air flow meter or other parts to upgrade. Also had a BBS front lip on it. cheers, mike

I had to make up a tool for this when i did my gearbox oil the otherday, its a little bodgy but works and is a 17mm nut, which fits in perfect. If anyone in welly area needs to borrow it just letme know. cheers

I know, 50nm gain is heaps, i know he has a really free flowing exhaust, (twin pipes with 2 cobys on each with no muffler) but i don't know if he dynoed the car before or after he got the exhaust done. And i'm not sure but i think intake is standard? maybe carl or ian can correct me.

I got dynatron in mine, no problems and no false alarms

How far through making the mould are you?

Hopefully the springs will be available in less than a months time, i been using them in my car for a bit becuase with my springs there is too much camber at the back, hopefully that be fixed soon and i can put my 40mm ones in. His springs are only 20mm lower than factory but stiffer, the fronts are available at the moment though. As for the instument clusters, they are around somewhere i just got to find them.

I can get ya springs up to 60mm lower for around $350 i think. Choice of brands, dobisport, whiteline, lovells, etc. Not king springs tho. (Main difference will be colour, all after-market springs are around 30% stiffer than stock, same as sports shocks, all around 30% stiffer than factory. Regarding rim's though, most people think 17's look better but 16's will work on the car far better, less unsprung weight, better ride, less harsh on steering and suspesion components, etc. Not to mention they are normally cheaper as well. BTW, i actually think 16's look better on E30's than 17's Edit- if you can afford it upgrade your shocks to something stiffer as soon as you can. Standard shock will wear quicker with the upgraded spring rates and they might also bounce. Getting stiffer shocks to match the stiffer springs will make a huge difference in handling, much more than just spring alone.

Finding wheels for them is a bit of a mission unless you are going to buy new, there just aren't many 4 x 100 with rear wheel drive offset mags arounds.

Ian gained 50 Nm from the headers on his 323, i doubt ecu would give you that much.

I know of someone trying to sell his MK Motorsports Baur Convertable E30. Its was an 85' 323 but has been modified by MK Motorsports and includes a shitload of goodies. Including: LSD, bodykit, 15" wheels, koni's, and best of all, M20B27 engine with hot cam, headwork, lightened, balanced etc, and is making around 246hp at the fly. Unfinished project, has just had lots of rust work done. Need engine and box put back in and some paint touch ups. I haven't seen it in over a year so it may need other stuff and I'm unsure of what else needs doing, If anyone is seriously interested in this car I will go take some pics. I think i should add that this car was built for the Munich (or something like that) motorshow, and is probably extremely rare. And I'm almost certain he said $5000, which is worth it for the motor alone. Cheers, Mike

Thats the same setup i got for my fronts, it not that hard to set up, but will sound way better than just headunit power.

I try not get to involved in the whole brand x is better than brand y debate but i got to agree with E30-318 on the whole DOHC thing. Who cars if holden/chev/hsv engines don't have dohc/vvt/etc? They still make 400hp and carry their weight much lower than fords BOSS engines. Not that 0-100 times are everything but despite the extra technology the holdens are still roughly half a second faster than the ford equivalent.

Not sure how true this is but some basic maths... Lets say a modern formula 1 engine makes 15hp per litre per 1000rpm If you want 250 rwhp you will need around 330 at the flywheel (with a 25% power loss). So 330hp from a 2L is 165 Hp per Litre, which going by F1 standards means you will have to rev to over 11'000 rpm. What I'm saying is to get 250+ rwhp from a 2Litre NA you will need to be revving to around 11'000 and have the same efficiency as a F1 engine. Dunno how true all that is but i saw it somewhere and changed the numbers to suit.

Are both the subs the same? and are they both single voice coil? If so then i would use the best amp you have to run both of those. Then use your other amp to run your speakers. Either bridge it to run the fronts or use it to power all speakers, I wouldn't use it to power just rears speakers, as they will bo too overpowering. Even cheap components will be far better than the standard E30 speakers so try and get something. Dont worry about ease of installation, it might only cost you a few extra buck and maybe an extra hour of work to have the front speakers amp'd but it will sound far better. My crappy fusion components in the front go plenty loud enough without needing rear speakers. Also E30 boot is plenty big enough for 2 subs with heaps of space still available. (I can still get my spare tyre out with the subs in). BTW, if your subs are different then i would only use best one. My 2 cents.