petone

Just had another thought, i may be able to use the smaller conrods from the 2.0, which are 5mm shorter, although this may drop the compression too much. Anybody got links to some good tech sites?

I already have the 2.0 complete but its dead, i haven't taken the head off so i don't know what ports it has. I was worried about the smaller head not being able to flow enough but that said, in the article on the 2.7 build gus posted they say the 2.0 head flows enough for 200 hp. In they same article they also say the 2.5 pistons will hit the 2.0 head, but that is for the longer stroke so i might be alright with the shorter stroke of the 2.5 As for why... complete 2.5 engine is a little out of my budget, and i just want to play with an engine.

I'm looking for some info on the various parts for the M20 engines. I have a 2.5 block (incl pistons, conrods, crank) but no head, manifolds etc. I also have a dead M20B20, which i want to use for the head, manifold etc. effectivly this would be a stroked 2.0 litre rather than a full on 2.5 Unless i came across a whole lot of 2.5 parts cheap as then I am stuck with the 2 bits. Questions, will the 2.0 litre head work with the 2.5 crank rods and pistons? Will there be any other problems? Will a jetronic loom and ecu be able to handle the extra cc or is a motronic 2.5 must have? Compression ratio? If anyone can help me out or point me to a place or person that can it would be awesome. I wasn't able to find much using searches. I know that i should be using 325 parts as they are bigger better etc but this is more of a project that i want to do. Also for what i paid for these parts theres no reason not to try it. Any ideas or suggestions would be awesome. Cheers guys.

its the damage to the rear quarter thats goin to be main main reason for the write off. similar thing happened to my car, let my mate drive and he slide into a curb.

Happy Birthday Tane, have a good one mate.

Don't get me started on SUV's. Can't stand the f**king things, biggest waste of time/space/money ever. :rambo: SUV and for good measure :rambo: Campervan

Have a look round for any wires or switches etc round the seat. See if you can find a way to reset the light yourself. It might be as simple as using a jumper wire (similar to E30 inspection reset)

Nice car. Very cool Did the M42 motor come in anything else? They'd all have the sports suspension, hows that different to the normal stuff? (other than the struts) is it just stiffer springs, shocks, swaybars, or more to it than that?. Also some of the normal 318's came with discs on the back while some 320 have drums. Lastly, the later 323i were 150hp.

Still got a long way to reach sparkles standard though

I have never driven with an LSD so can't comment on them but I find the biggest problem is telling whether its going to do the gay spin the inside wheel thing or both wheels let go. I don't find understeer that much of a problem, with the manual steering you can sense when its coming quite easily. As for the snappy oversteer comment, if you do it deliberate under power its not too bad, its when you aren't ready that a lot of people have been caught out. I know of 3 E30's that have suffered this fate, maybe 4. Although the drivers were inexperienced, it still shows you have to be ready for oversteer, espically in poor driving conditions. My 2c

sure mate, sent ya a PM, anyone else keen to join us for a few?

keep saving until i could afford an SR20

if we're talking engine bays, try a bit of dynamo (liquid laundry powder), Just dilute it down in a garden sprayer. Spay it on, wait 5 min then hose off. Works wonders, also gets to those hard to clean bits. Safe to use on paint. Use degreaser for the engine tho. Also, if your like me and go a bit overboard with the hose spray WD40 all over the dizzy, etc. (It only happened once) Yeah, sorry a bit off topic

haha no easy way about it sorry. Just have to run a dirty great power cable down the length of the car. E30's are relativly easy though, pull off the plastic covers on the door sills, underneath then are channels for all the other wires, theres plenty of room for extra wires. Its not too bad when you figure out where everything can go. Hell, i have RCA's from headunit to amps in back of boot then speaker cable going forward again to the front speakers, more speaker cable from the headunit to back speakers, aswell as other RCA for subs, amp turn-on wire and the main power cable. Note: Just make sure you run power cables down a different side of the car to your RCA and speaker cables, otherwise you can get nasty noises in the system.

Glenn, your using E36 front struts aren't you? Why did you go for the brembos instead of the upgrade you mentioned above? easier to find the brembos or better stopping or something else? Just interested...

Emma, i can't see your parents having the same problems with the cops that tim, gus, andy etc would have. The only problem i can see is what sic said, regarding camera fines.

Nah i think he's talking about the ones martyn refering to. Either do what martyn said or if you don't have tools or whatever just take it to a tyre shop and they'll sort it out. EDIT- See if you can by a key off BMW, its pretty small and simple so might not be too expensive

Happened to me about 3 days ago- only some of the pics though. Running IE on this computer. Still not fixed.

might want to say whether its 2dr or 4dr. Also its a pretty common thing, all the e30s ive seen have ripped seats.

Even my little 318 will spin up so I'm assuming it must be pretty bad for guys in 325's

I'd take the Britton, then the mac, then the BMW collection. Sadly, being a poor student i don't think i'll have to worry about which i'd choose. I'll leave you guys to your own little dream world

Front should be 20mm and rear should be 12mm. The size isn't the only thing to go on though, some bars are hollow where others are solid. Also different steel, mounting points etc. If anyone has a cheap 20mm front bar floating round let me know.

No trust me, they were completly different. The BNT person agreed with me, there was no way they were going to fit.

in my 1st of 4 years at uni in canterbury doing a BE (mech). Dont have a job in canterbury yet but when i was in welly i worked for the local tyreshop and was also pizza boy (using the 318) Also done some contracting work for the old man, some of which I think is for GHD (glens company)

My master cylinder shat itself a while ago, i only did a quick fix, no hone. Now I think its playin up again so I'll do it properly this time with a hone etc. As for the recon kits, they cost about 25 with BMW club discount however mine was a little different and some of the seals didn't fit. I ended up buying 2 random seals off BNT instead for about 2 bucks each. You don't use half of the seals you get with the kits. Just buy the individual seals. As for new master cylinders the best price i found was $100 from hutt city auto parts.