JiB

Edited first post.

Grand Theft Auto 4 Ratchet and Clank: Tools of Destruction $60 for both For PS3

That hoooooooooooooottttt. edit: Withdrawn

Yup, all my current wheels will need spacers (I need spacers anyway 'cos of my brakes). If you're after wheels in general - CamB is selling some 16x7.5 AC Schnitzers, they'd bolt right on Edit: Work wheels in original post definitely can't be redrilled. They're hollow back wheels.

They might be able to be redrilled, but current hub size, and backing type should be determined first. It's also not cheap to re-drill tbh, I was quoted 115+gst per wheel for a 4 stud standard taper. Remember that on top of spacer costs, you will have to get the car certified as well. Ideal 4x100 - 4x114.3 spacers would be a 57.1 inner bore, 15-20mm thick, OD the same as the rotor bell. Then have a outer bore the same as a datsun or silvia (something common). Remember to be legal/certed the spacers need to be hubcentric on both sides! The thing is, even if they are redrillable, you might need hubcentric rings, slip-on spacers, etc. So be wary of hidden costs They're definitely super sweet wheels, so might be worth the effort! Lol, I'm not exactly sure I want to sell my SE37K's myself, but I really want some ce28n's (a wheel that's eluded me for years!)

Oh wow. A gt3 rs.....but with fr and v8! Best thing ever! (So far, on paper at least)

Volks, roh's, ssr's, racing harts, etc. The reason i don't own them already is i have 26 wheels in my ownership and i don't have any space or cars left for more wheels. Especially wheels i don't need like CamB says. If you intend on putting them on a e30 with big struts the fronts will need a spacer or they'll touch the strut @ 8" and 25p. And ideally i'd run a 30p or more at the rear for a 9" 'cos there's lots of backspace available. This is especially true with FL e30's. As for drilling, 4x100 can't done to 4x114 if the hubsize is already too big to accomodate a 100mm pcd. And it should only ever be done to flatback wheels. My 2c. P.S. Frantic, you need to re-school yourself on offsets and withs.

Nup....mines a garage queen

This one also!

Looks amazingly well setup. I want it (more than an M3 even )P.S. If you can't stand Ken Block, skip the first 30sec.

Yeah, 'cos this might be a goer could ask them for a 400hp engine package - probably just needs a RB26 with bolt-ons + tune. FWIW I reckon the white Evo I posted would be a better deal than the Spec C.

Would've thought this was just about perfect for you? FIA, LVV, Auth Card, Reg, WOF. I bet with a bit of bartering the price could drop too?

I ruined a decent E30:

OT: ^ I wonder how the AE92 hatch held up against the 205 gti?

Ohhh wow. what a deal! Any idea on weight?

Maybe he's got a composite ARB? Y'know 'cos it's a racing model.

Looks like the car is a E36 M3 Evo...black one too (according to carjam). I'd lol, if he had an S14 in his E36. I don't recall E30's or E36's having side vents though :S It's like he chose bits from E30/E36/E46 and advertised them all as one car.

So much for ADSL2+ speed

'Cos "skid wheels" are ones that are expendable, ones to throw away. The ones you mount used tyres on to turn into smoke. I assume it's because it's often the "skid wheels" that meet the curb first lest "skid mishap" occurs. Regardless, If I had an E36 - I would have 5x120-5x114.3 adaptors and those wheels. Good deal for cheap pimpin'

People who'd rather have functional, light, forged wheels over soft, wobbly 3pc wheels?

Get the gold pinstriping and keep the wheels silver imho

Am also happy to throw in a few bucks to help. These were the cheapest I could find after a quick look on t'me. :S

Lulz, more nzHondas alumni trading in fast Hondas for slow BMWs

The greater the distance from the centre of the hub = greater the force on the hub (leverage). But you shouldn't ignore other factors like the ones I mentioned in the above post. Different disc sizes can be for different trim levels/facelift/region specific models = different brake systems. For example, DC5 Type R's of the same year and trim level would have different brakes. The ones from Japan had 4 piston Brembos, whilst the ones form NZ have pathetic single piston jobbies = hence different rotor sizes.

Caliper brackets will need a cert $400 or more. Rotor problems in order of difficulty: -bell height -thickness -hubcentricity -stud pattern Good luck finding a rotor that matches all of the above! IIRC, some Citreon ones might do the trick. Caliper problems: -the pad area won't utilise all of the rotor surface (defeats the purpose somewhat) -caliper internal radius will be designed for a smaller rotor, monoblock calipers can be machined to work, not sure about the poo BMW sliding callipers However, going to a larger caliper will still have problems: -wheel clearance issues -BMC size -plumbing Cater about $1500 to do it right, this is not including pads, fluids, etc. But if you're still interested, I think there's details of my brakes in my build thread. (4 piston monoblock 300mm, front. 2 piston monoblock 296mm rear). To be honest? On a 318? Don't bother, spend the money on stainless lines and bushes. A caliper rebuild if you're really keen. edit: I think "Sammy J" might have a better solution than my BBK setup if you're adament on bigger brakes