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Everything posted by JiB
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Haha, massive wing on FWD car makes very good sense. From the track cars I've read/seen/learnt about - making them tail happy means they become neutral in corners. At higher speeds this isn't desirable - hence large wing. From the little I know about aero - bonnet vents are excellent ways to dialing in downforce and altering high pressure zones pre-venturi mouth. Scoops can be used for oil coolers, transcoolers - for fwd's. I don't see a problem with light panels for any car. Like Colin Chapman said - light means the car will be good everywhere. Shorter stopping distance, better acceleration/fuel economy, better moment change, etc. Therefore - safer, more efficient car. Big brakes? Going by your post in your other thread - you'd rather have a car that handles like poo and stops like poo as long as it goes fast and looks sacked out bro. This in my humblest of opinions is rice. Then again, I have overrated brakes and suspension on my car - with a standard M20 - standard down to the factory BMW paper filter. But hey, don't mind me, I'm just putting hate on your hate so you can be hated while you hate. X to the Z.
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All light vehicles should be 95db IIRC. A WR Yamaha 450cc single is quite capable of making 120db at 4000-5000rpm....25 times the legal limit Bike motors are silly loud for their size - I guess the tiny amount of room for exhaust doesn't help...
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No offence....but how long is a piece of string? USD17,000 per shock? Some sweet Motons for that price. I assume you mean - how much so you can make the car look lower? Try some D2's - $1200 or so. They will very probably be extremely bouncy and poo on NZ roads. But it'll look mean as ow. $2500 will get you a decent GC setup - NZD is getting strong-ish. And because yours is a road car, you'd want to fix the toe and camber in the rear - more $$$.
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Pics would be betterer than a description. 'Cos when you describe it - it sounds pretty homax - It was purple, with a carbon bonnet and gold wheels (Had an awesome stance though, hella flush wheel fitment). I lol at the rush of Honda love all of a sudden. Suddenly it's cool to hate on the haters. I'm a hater hater too, I had a Honda with all the factory rice - red interior, red calipers, big wing, bodykit, big white wheels, fart cannon, the lot. Loved it, but was too expensive to race/cage.
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Then I'm an idiot I think (not really a newsflash though ) Try looking at any of the proxy wars they have "fought". However, few of them were American lives. I think any government would sacrifice the lives of non-citizens over citizens - no matter how many. If the American government - under the conservative government - seemed to think that there were classes of American citizen - then perhaps fostering/seizing an oppurtunity may not have be out of the question? The British government certainly knows how to make the most of external threats - they have an impressive/scary amount of citizen surveillance and control. I am in danger of making non sequitur arguments, so I'll stop posting now. edit: bellicose was one step ahead of me.
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Hope I'm not being a pain - but is there a template available for the feet of the tower brace? I'm going to be cutting out bits of my strut tops for camber and castor soon - wondering if it would affect the strut brace at all?
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Oh good. A champion of democracy without the meritocracy. Though, the ridiculous power that the American executive wields - it's entirely possible to stage such an operation. But there are better ways of engineering the social identity that surely would've been explored before? Or maybe they had been . Either way, I'm entirely happy to sit in my (shaky) academic ivory tower avoiding conclusion because I don't think it's a consipiracy.
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Hmm if $25 is 20%, I'd be interested in a front tower brace if it doesn't interfere with my coilovers I don't envy the FEA/ANSYS you'd have to do Wouldn't the money be better spent converting to coilovers and boxing the strut tops to the cage? BTCC style
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They are pretty poo tyres. But like ALL tyres, they'll need 100-200kms to wear in before grip/ride/noise/etc can be judged. It's not just surface tyre lube. IIRC it's because the layer of the tyre closest to the mold has a mold release compound. And this doesn't represent the same compound as the rest of the tyres. Unless that's what you meant by tyre lube? Hope that helps.
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Am selling these. Not sure how useful they are though.
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I like rice (not that I really understand how you'd define such a term). It makes me happy - as can be seen in my aftermarket madeinchina tachometer and flouro cage, bits of carbon fibre, et al. I've spent much money on a tech1 kit, techII rear spoiler, many many wheels. None of which make my car go any better. Perhaps we should just have badges for unrepentant ricers. Can mine be repsol orange please?
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So I it's fixable/going to Taupo? What is it? Can't quite make it out - alternator bracket mount?
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Had loose and floaty rear when I had rooted Bilsteins with Jamex's in it. Addition of LSD made it less loose. Are your shocks kosher?
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Wow, that's shaping up to be a very well prepared car! If you don't mind me asking - how did you paint the interior?
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I have a feeling this is the same one I drove very slowly past (twice) in Tamaki. Such a beautiful car.
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I think "done correctly" would imply that there was capital to start with as well as the ability to hold on to the vehicle till the right buyer came along. Swaps or modifications to run of the mill E30's generally run cheaper than any //M parts I've seen. From my (perhaps inconclusive) research it's usually cheaper to go aftermarket for better bang for buck. In which case I think you would lose money due to lack of originality. I know I wouldn't rebuild the S14 - for the same money I'd happily commit sacrilege for better/more power. In essence, I think it's a bit difficult not to lose money for the average punter. For the few who can happily spare the capital and garage space as well as holding power then maybe it's more viable. If I were to own an E30 M3 - I wouldn't expect to make/not lose money.
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Books and G25 + rFactor kept me sane when I was under quarantine for pig flu.
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Remember to take lots of pics Heath. 'Cos I won't be there I can't afford it as I'm saving for a seminar in Oz at the end of the year. I should be at Kemp Rd and/or other events closer to Auckland though! Cam makes for excellent pit crew btw, saved my brakes at the RallySprint It's amazing what an extra cushion will do! But you have to wonder how the endurance guys manage it.
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Cheers guys. ...Though I'm sure your ideal E30 wouldn't be powered by a completely standard M20
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The -15's will stick out of the guard about 30 mm or so with 2deg + camber in the rear. I'm basing this on my 17x9's. I don't think 30p's will not fit in the front if you have 51mm struts. Might fit the rear, but the rim will be about the same distance from the guard as 15x7 basketweaves. Weksos. They're a sexy wheel though!
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IIRC All seals, all bearings, 2nd gear syncro. The other synchros were fine or they would've been replaced.
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I like it. Mostly because of the sacrilege
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False. I'm having to daily my car car once or twice a week from North Shore to East Tamaki and/or Town Wide fronts, max castor, loop PS rack - it's not really much heavier than the E46 unless you're stationary. I also find there's more feel compared to PS. My 2c. I will report back on a looped E36 rack once I have spare time to put it in.
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This, at a guess the end of the sump guard, maybe past firewall, should be the mouth for the venturi? For extra bling - carbon kevlar for skidpadz. edit: I have a factory sump guard sitting in my garage doing nothing, I want to make my own but ally is expensive :/ How badly do you need it?