JiB

I want a quad cam V8.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=192374440 ?

? I was under the impression that was what my radiator did too? It's out of a manual '83 323i - upgrade from 320i. I thought all M20's had the same flow. But I may be wrong. Good luck with your search, I'm sure Ray will have the part you need.

I have a good condition radiator you can have for cheap $65 BimmerSport Link

I think he means they're bling bling in the right way?

I don't want to wear my 6pt now.

I'm a fan of the DOWORK car. And obnoxious colours But white/gold BBS LM's is my favourite ...Oh, and this one

Lol, more when the piping is out. I'm thinking an optimistic 40kg+ has been removed inc sun roof haha. Although, you did the aircon, I've got grazed knuckles If you read CamB's post above that: you will still need to visit the Seatbelt shop for the plates to mount the bolts. Trans tunnel side. Seatbelt shop does not do harnesses. I still would not recommend harnesses in a street car. However, $229 is a reasonable price.

Cage update - first post

I think we put them in not long after I bought the car....IIRC the previous owner said the car had just been aligned with the new tyres for wof. But to be honest, the "new tyres" were snow tyres, so it may have been a cheap/rough spec alignment.. CamB and I drove it immediately after we got them in, so pre alignment and the turn in was instantly improved. The car was then aligned as close to factory spec as possible. I drove it pre and post alignment after installing the bushes....and the turn in was dulled post alignment to be honest. I have the alignment sheet here somewhere, will dig it out. Maybe it might be an idea to get M3 bushes and strut tops then use a combination of standard and E30M3 alignment settings? (I'm thinking of using E30M3 alignment specs - in theory my car now has roughly the same castor and camber amount as M3.)

For toe settings, I was told 1deg total toe front- .5 each aids with turn in. But this was settings off a series car with M3 offset bushes top and lower. Factory is 2deg toe IIRC. Again the above is my 2c, which is being applied to my racecar so may not be suitable for road use.

techII, et al are silly expensive. Why not a suede Prototipo or equally baller wheel? I had a techI which was nice to use, but felt like a bus!

E30 centre console trim - black Reasonable condition Misc Bike Rack Also have random ducts and aircon bits from a PFL 325i coupe. Pipes, rad, etc, etc Have PFL foglights, Passenger side cracked All free, or if you're generous maybe swap for pack of coke or something. Will be posting more stuff when I find it. Have a pair of braided rear brake lines. Have yellow sleeve, so road legal. Want $40 ono for them.

Have done offset castor bushes as well as camber/castor strut tops. The more castor, the better my car drove....to the point I want to cut up my strut tops so I can have even more castor. The offset LCA bushes are in the top ten mods imho. I used the el cheapo noltec ones, haven't had a problem with them. I liked the excessive toe/camber setup in the rear when I had the car's chassis 90-100mm off the ground. Felt like a go-kart. Probably terrible on tyres. The front camber really doesn't seem to be affected much by lowering tbh. This is only my 2c. I'm sure people with more suspension knowledge will chime in.

+1 They're choice. I use them. Done a coupla events without issues. Good price too Though, if your brake lines are healthy, then pads would be better value for money/have bigger effect.

Bags are only cool if you can lay frame at speed and spark down the motorway

Damn, I was hoping it'd be a bright orange tiger striped E30

I was using a seperate set of wheels/tyres for track use. And eco tyres for street use. This was the cheapest way of doing it for me. Choose your tyre before you choose your wheels. I wanted to use the series size which is 205/50R15, so I got 15x7's. If you want 205/55R14 (available in Toyo RA1's) then you should go for a 14x6 to 14x7. I would go for a track specific tyre like the R888 - they can withstand abuse, great in both wet and dry. More importantly they give you plenty of confidence to learn about your car. Seeing that you have a very light E30 with not much power, maybe you wouldn't need so much rubber? I'm not sure how much cheaper soft compound road tyres like the AD07, RE01R, RE011, Falken, Ventus RS2 (Z212), etc are but they may be worth a look. Of course, all of the above can be had second hand. But make sure the tyres you buy are not too old/cracked/damaged. There is a great range of track oriented tyres in 15" but wheels for E30's are a pain in the butt to find. I would see if any of the E30 series competitors are selling some 2nd hand wheels.

That's a seriously choice car. If the car is remaining a street car I'd keep the 3.46. I have a 3.73 in my track hack, which makes everything a bit short. Even more noticeable on the street. My 2c P.S. Do you have a dyno figure? Curious to see how much power the dynamics motor is putting out.

We get 100km's more out of 98 in the E46 than from 91. I can't really tell the difference between 95/98 for the E30, but hey, if 98 reduces the chances of detonation then I don't see why I should "save" 2c per litre if it means my motor lasts longer. So it seems that 98 is more economical? For a 325e30's and 328e46's anyway.

+1 The dude spent $550+ on a short shift kit.

Um, I would actually say that BMW's have higher maintenance costs than Toyota/Honda/Nissan of similar vintage. But you get what you pay for I'd highly recommend a pre-purchase inspection from a BMW specialist.

Give youo $10 for the elbow....But how much is shipping to Auckland

Does dishwashing liquid not degrade windshield and surrounding rubbers?

Have a random assortment of E30 bits available if that reduces cost of E34 bits. Btw, whatcha using E34 bits for Cam?