JiB

To be honest? I got an E30 because it was cheaper and I found the E36 boring, even if it has better technology. The E36 no doubt drives better too! That said, $ wise, it would've been wiser for me to buy a mint 328 E36 already with better power/brakes/suspension. If I didn't go the race car route. Our E46 328i is a better all round car than my E30, but isn't as raw/informative as my E30. It's also VERY heavy. Yup, sold the DC5R. You're welcome to come have a look at mine once it's back home I'd happily say that the E36 has better dynamics. But the design just didn't float my boat. The E36 is probably a more comfortable daily driver too! E30 325's would be the only E30 I'd drive daily, especially if you plan on a sedan and keeping all the interior. E30's don't really have that much torque, 318's and 320's feel about the same as a B16A What are you going to use the car for? 325/328's usually have the most options, but they're expensive in manual. E36 325 felt a bit slower than my standard 325 E30 to be honest. It might be due to weight.. I reckon drive as many as you can, and then decide. There are some real rotten examples out there that might give you a bad impression, so make sure you drive some good ones.

Hi, you wouldn't happen to be the same sugarfree that owned a B18C eg hatch would you? As for E30's be prepared to spend more $$ for not much gain compared to Hondas. They're slower as well, but really fun to drive.

It is dangerous to mix directional/asymmetric/non-directional. IIRC mixing will make the car unpredictable under load. Why not see zenneti? He had some good prices up on the forum a while ago.

340i > 540i My street spec e30 was doing the same lap times as the latest m5 and m6 at ruapuna last week. There is no way a striped 540i would get anywhere near me on the track I voted V8 E30. V8's in small cars rule. But a 340 wasn't part of the equation Riley. Notice how I said 540 > 325? I was replying to //James and Nick021. I stand by my comment that stripped 540 > 325. The E30 has a pretty agricultural rear end, and E34 onwards have a multilink rear if I'm not mistaken? Better brakes as well I'd say. Not to mention price wise, the costs of 325's these days are getting up there.

I use Ireland Engineering Urethane motor and trans mounts. Highly recommend if you don't mind a bit more NVH. Expensive though.

540 > 325. I'd rock a stripped, manual 540i over a crappy 30. And listen to CamB, any power in an E30 is an expensive exercise. If you just want cheap power/giggles get a Japanese car. Chances are said Japanese car would have a better suspension setup too. If I were after a overpowered road car I'd get the aforementioned 1JZ Altezza. Over any BMW. *dons flame suit*

Jealous. I only have the CA bushes, and they made hella difference. Guessing the full kit would be choooice

Can recommend. Got mine from him. Alloy ones too.

I vote V8, Kemp Rd taught me that displacement rules. But listen to what people are trying to tell you, you will need more money than what ever figure you think will cover it. Friend has a 3SGTE AE82 race car. Easy 230kph at the end of the Puke straight, BUT 300whp+ and 900kg FWD car = torque steer for Africa. Not sure why you'd want one.

IB > All. Doesn't matter once you're in Uni. Back on topic: I still can't quite fathom how the crash happened? Looks like the nose carried on at right angles to the rest of the body? Can't believe the driver is just standing there

It wasn't notchy when the standard shifter was in. Most of the selector bushes are new. Trans and motor mounts are solid urethane. Gearbox has been opened up and inspected. Ernst is rebuilding another for me. It's actually not bad at all, 2nd is just stubborn when it's cold. I'm just picky, am used to 1st and 3rd being so short now. Would a rooted diff mount affect gear selection Glenn?

I had a look at all his other videos..he seems to think that jumping a car 100ft is not that big a deal. Nut case.

I think I've got the Z3 3.0 or Z3 M in my car. Notchy as, and 3rd doesn't feel like it's in the first few times you drive it. New ex BMW via Bavarian Motors. If you have the old style shifter, there's a bit of dicking around to fit it.

For $30 a blade, I'd go for the Bosch AeroTwin range from Super Cheap. $23 each last time I checked. I'm a wiper geek, and have gone through PIAA wipers to el cheapo ones. But my favourite is still the Aero Twin. Silent and clears water cleanly. Best wipers I've used on the road. They don't work well on E30's due to the shape of the screen, too small and curved. But on bigger cars they should be sweet Have had them on the xtrail for nearly 3 years now and still on original blades, still working like new. Car is never garaged or cleaned My 2c

V8 gets my vote.

Basically everything from the roof of a e30 with manual winder sunroof is available. Apart from the headlining 'cos I cbf treating it nice. I don't need it, scaffolding is going in its place. All in pretty good nick. most of the screws etc, available. Pickup only.

Lucas ones are definitely not the "best ones" you can buy from Repco. Mintex and Bendix are available through order. Lucas are the cheapies, even Super Cheap's mid range Ferodos are better. edit: If it's for a road car, why not try OEM BMW pads? They're pagid ones or something. I'm guessing most of the driving is done ~100kph

It's a PFL with techII by the looks of things. The kit doesn't quite look at home :S My PFL has the same indicators

Seatbelt shop, Silverfield Rd, Glenfield. Talk to your local certifier that can do Authority Cards and they'll point you in the right direction.

Rear seat mounts and had to make a mount up to MSNZ specs on the gearbox side. Am using FIA MONZA 6pt ones - but with 4 pts installed. Other 2pts going in w/ the cage. I wouldn't recommend harnesses in a road car to be honest. Would be a lot of hassle, uncomfortable, just general PITA. I'd imagine they'd be all over the place on a conventional seat too If I were to do it all again, I would've tried to keep the harnesses for secondary use on track and standard seat belt for road use. And without a cage, I'd just do the driver's side and leave the passenger as standard.

As far as I can tell, from internets and looking at a few on hoists, the differences are: -Offset strut tops - extra camber, no extra castor -Offset control arm bushes - castor and camber (?) -Longer aluminium control arms - apparently 3x more castor than standard. -Sway bar tabs on the front shock bodies. -5 stud hubs - but is there a larger track than a standard E30? -Faster steering rack than a standard E30. (LHD) What else is different? Is the body any stiffer? Extra gussets? Seam welding? Braces?

Updated first post.

Unfortunately, these will sell without raills or brackets. Might brackets/rails separately at a later stage. I need them for now.

Switch to Motronic 1.3 from FL 325's

I have a rebuilt one if you're interested 260 is apparently stronger.