E30 325i Rag-Top

Lots of stuff in the technical section of the race series forum Jack, and the arguments on which pads to use will go on for ever! There is a balance to be had between how much they cost v how long they last v how well they stop you. It all comes down to $$$s at the end of the day.Most people say that EBC are cr@p pads, but I still run with them as they are relatively cheap ($180 front set yellow, $144 rear set yellow) and last a season and a bit for me whilst still working ok.

Just clicked up 78,000 miles in the 'vert.... thats over 124,000kms... nicely run-in ! Not bad in 23 and a half years!

What else is Santa bringing you this year Foxy?? I hope you have got the Ok from the committee to run a turbo on an E28 before you go too far into the build...

Those are actually beach huts - the British equivalent of the old fashioned Kiwi bach, still a funny picture, with a sad and poignant reflection on changes within society kind of an under-current.

Nice find there Nath, great starting point for a race car. Wish my Dad was that cool

Crazy cloggies do love their Oranje!

It's a pity you can't actually put a comment on when you reply to an offer or I would give a few choice words.Funny how this appeared late last night... Seller Comment: Thanks for letting me know, bid removed. 7:34 pm, Mon 29 Nov when the obviously dodgy mate Thorbet with all of 5 star feedback was leading the bidding because the went past the maximum auto-bid of the genuine person! Time for an e-mail to TradeMe I think.

You know you can't use it in the E30 series don't you Jack ?

Indeed.Will be interesting to see what happens tonight when the auction finishes if the sale goes through this time...

Is that the only thing that has the yellow connector that plugs into the dash cluster there? I have a yellow connector plug in the wiring for my race car but definately no OBC and doubt if one was ever fitted!

Looks good - how much work is involved on wiring side to get the smilies to work on the pre-fl?

Is it the speed reading that has stopped working (the needle), or the mileage (odometer)?

I''m far too old to know how to photoshop - but fwiw just colour code the black plastic bits and leave the chrome parts showing, same on the rear bumper. Easier and cheaper to spray up - no masking,etc and you can do the taking apart and putting back together.You might want to ask yourself if this is a priority right now though... even if it is the same kind of thing that I would do !

Tools Explained DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh, sh*t!" SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but, can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while you are wearing them. Son of a b*tch TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "Son of a bitch" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

Hope you have had a good day young fella! Catch up with you soon at Hampton.

Need to edit the sig picture as well now Jack...

True, the "Special Interest" category. However, in the TradeMe listing he is just saying it will be 20 years old so no problem to register it. When I looked at the SI category it did look a bit more work to get a vehicle accepted and it was down to someone's call at NZTA rather than a clear cut decision. IMHO with the whole dodgy way this vehicle has been registered as an ATV (and used on the road!) and kept here all this time NZTA are pretty unlikely to say yes without a lot of hard work and $$$$s from the new owner.All I am trying to say is "buyer beware" it's a great car and should be owned by someone who will appreciate it rather than this knob who is not kosher.

I'm not sure if anyone has dealt with him in person, but he has been well and truly torn to pieces on some of his TradeMe listings due to their totally inaccurate information and generally suspect nature. There are a couple of threads on here as well, referring to him by his TradeMe name which used to be Strat1 until he was banned, and has come back under another couple of names.I have just been through the CarJam report for this "Alpina M5" which turns out to be registered as an ATV class of motorcycle, hasn't had a warrant since 2008 and failed on it's last trip to the testing station. Anyone interested in this car needs to very carefully check through the compliance process - just because it is 20 years old and LHD doesn't mean it can be complied as an import. I am pretty sure the age thing is 20 years from first registration (not build date) up to when it ARRIVES in NZ, not when you take it for compliance.

A very good place to start for a 16 year old. Add an iS front lower lip, then just look after the car properly.

Now back on TradeMe as a no reserve listing, let's see if it sells this time... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=332657409 I think you were a bit optimistic with your bid there Foxy !

As ever, the engineering on the strut bar looks top-notch. You guys wouldn't be interested in quoting for making up another set of those amazing throttle bodies, trumpets, inlets, etc would you? Looks the dogs.

Can you please check the material on this bumper? If it's Polyurethane it should be marked with PUR and possibly a % of fibre-filler, if it's a normal car bumper then it should be Poly-propylene and marked with a PP stamp.

Unfortunately there is a lot of history with this car and in particular the guy selling it, numerous low reserve auctions (for this and other nice beemers) which get won but don't go through, usually with lots of suspect bidding, then the car pops up again for a low reserve sale. Look at the feedback history already, how many incomplete auctions, and excuses. You are right without the correct paperwork it's only worth about 2.5k, even with the paperwork the compliance would be a real mission.

You are correct, the rear seats in a 'vert are different, they are quite a bit narrower to allow for the side space where the hood mechanism folds away and the rear quarter lights drop down. It wouldn't be a straight bolt-in job, but anything can be made to fit if you try!Fronts would be a straight swap tho.

From the seller's web-site: The vehicles have been held in the collection since new and are secured in a private garage(s) outside New Zealand. All prices are in New Zealand dollars ($NZ) and FOB the secure garage(s) outside New Zealand where the cars are located. My guess would be that the sales broker is in NZ, but the cars aren't (with the exception of the silver 456). Fairly lax business and tax laws in NZ, plus a very strong dollar making it better for selling internationally. Shame, as I would love to go and wander around amongst that lot pretending I was going to buy one... "any chance of a test drive mate - I've got my license on me?"