323e30

My e34 wagon is now finally panel beated and is pretty much ready for paint but im not sure what kind of paint type is best to use. Everyone seems to say 2k but its expensive and needs to be baked and I have never really heard a reason why its better than acrylic or enamel lacquers ? basically im at the stage where i need to lay a primer coat on the whole car ( which i plan to do myself ) but cant do this till i decide what type of final base coat to use otherwise it may react. anyone here on the pro side of painting, or clued up on this type of stuff? planning to go Gloss black all over for the final coat

No worries, deduct about 40% off the price on the site for the sills, they are actually the last set I have now. none of the prices are up to date and a new page is soon to come.

Ive got a set of stainless Ac Schnitzer ones to suit e36 4 door. (brand new) pm me for price if interested Cheers Mike

If you run the same set up as the 325 it will be sweet, but would be less work to just exchange your pump with the correct one (with whoever supplied it) ive never tried this myself so not sure how much work is actually involved even though it sounds fairly strait forward, Glenn prob knows tho.

found an image (just)

Ashkan had a set, not sure if the offsets were correct tho, sat in correctly at rear but super wide in front from memory. Mint style rim though.

Haha, I had nothing better to do so clicked the "report this listing" button The guy is a joke, especially when you were genuinely trying to help him out and he stalks down your pages just to make himself an even bigger joke. A normal person might make a rude mistake once but not twice.

Dont bother challenging it. Just go to another place and try again. all you loose is 30$ if you go to a cheaper workshop. to get it and theres a good chance they may pass you. Some places are fussier than others. (dont mention its been failed already, its not likely that your fail has been logged into the online system) This is Cheap advise... not generally the best advice.

Not too sure yet , I have a feeling it will be one of those bosch 450hp inline fuel pumps but really havent decided, Basically doing all the mods possible that I can re use or keep when a new engine is decided. I still have all the parts sitting ready for an m50 conversion but Im not happy with the amount of weight its going to add in the front end so im looking at other options, and trying to shift weight into the rear in the meantime

have a 323i head its strait just has corroded parts in it (cam etc) have kept it for exactly this kind of stuff. Can loan for aslong as you need it for some beers.

Could be the light control unit/relay thats located in the boot near the radio aerial. its held on by 2 screws and its got 2 plugs going into it. Im not sure how you would test it but there not expensive. If there faulty you will get all sorts of weird symptoms and it wont necessarily cause the fuses to blow either.

Quite possibly the owner haha

So ive been super slow with progress on this project over the last few months but have finally got back into it. Its literally stayed in one spot since the last post sadly ! Have begun fitting a new fuel tank in the spare wheel well, Fully alloy. So far its just the tank made to fit with a filler still alot of work to be done. Have also started fitting in an electric fuel pump and an e36 radiator this way i can delete the filler tank that normally sits in the engine bay Have made custom alloy blanking plates and adapters for plumbing where the waterpump has been removed. heres the progress so far. Hopefully it doesnt take me another decade to complete this haha.

I have a few. can freight if you have no luck else where. its only about 20$ postage cost to wellington. Pm me for quote, will be cheap.

You agree and they get in the back seat. On the way, they start undressing. Then one of them climbs over into the front seat and starts fondling you, while the other one steals your wallet. I had my wallet stolen August 5th, 9th, 10th, twice on the 15th, 17th, 20th & 24th. Also September 1st, 3rd, twice on the 5th, three times just yesterday. hahaha sounds like your keeping these girls in business!

in future just get a 65$ A-class exemption reg. If you plan to drive car while not warranted it can save you a bit of money. This reg is ment to be for Non motorway or highway roads. and is limited to 90kms per hour so its not completely fool proof but 9/10 you will be pulled over on regular streets anyway.

have a pair of e36 depo clear side indicators 30$ free post in nz., But as Forrest mentioned they only just cover the old screw hole. but these are cheap so thought ild offer there the last set from what i imported a while back (plan to go again for another load late feb 2010).

90$ upwards each from memory

what kind ov vibration is it? Is it variable ? as in does it get worse or better during acceleration? or when you give it a little gas while on the brake in gear? (while staying stationary + not doing a burnout that is haha)

184mm long 82mm high outter. 160mm long 74mm high inner screw distance 175mm center to center. Visually looks the same but these are the measurements.

are they the same as e30? i may have some if they are. Look similar have a pair. hella number 127 747 00 or bmw number 1 372 530

the starter motor does nothing when the key is turned. but when it finally does it starts first time. When the keys in the dash reacts and it releases the steering lock. turn key to acc and all the electrics work fine then when you turn to start there is no reaction from the starter. so it seems to accept the key no worries. Ive also pulled out the starter in the past and had it checked over and brushes replaced. Ild drop the car off to you but theres a good chance ill walk outside now and it will start Edit : car decided to start first try now... Ill come past your workshop but im guessing it will be hard to find a fault if its not there

I have a Mercedes that ive had for about 6 years now and its always had a temperamental issue with starting. when the problem is there it doesnt even attempt to start and so far everytime this has happened it has decided to fix itself by the time it arrives to a mechanic. (has been dragged onto a trailer and then arrived at mechanic and started first pop, two sep trips) The car is a 2000 model so it has the electronic plug in infra red key which is a system im unfamiliar with so havent ever attempted to fix or fault find the issue myself. Have so far changed the battery and also the relay for the starter motor , have tried jump starting it in the past with same zero ignition. This morning it has decided to start playing up again (after 6 months of being ok) anyone have any idea or have heard of this before? Theres a good chance it will start no worries in around an hours time but then again in the past it has stopped working for 4 weeks.

yeah use the m20 e30 starter, The m50 auto's and manuals use different starter motors for each from memory. Also check that the flywheel isnt touching the oil sump, as the m50 autos and manuals use different sumps and if you use an auto sump with a manual flywheel the fly wheel will touch (by about 2mm) so it will crank manually from the front of the engine but the starter will not be strong enough to crank it over

thats a mint idea. might have to try the same thing