Jacko

Oh theres a scratch. Oh theres another dent. Oh theres another stone chip. There is a reason people pay other people to do this stuff :D 2 Hours per panel.. but shes looking pretty shiney!

Midgets. Dead Midget Hookers.

These guys did a really nice job on my old corolla, insurance covered all the rubbers and mouldings. Turned up when they said they would, and had the right parts ready to rock.. also didnt have a 3 week booking period! http://www.accurateglass.co.nz/ I doubt E28 mouldings etc are as common as a 90s corolla, so you probably want to give whoever use choose a bit of a heads up

Day.. Tuesday. Sump cleaned up, oil level sensor seal changed. Sump gasket and the sensor seal were very brittle. Surprising it didnt leak more to be honest. Getting the sump back in and lined up is a bit of a dexterity test... But once in its in! Would be so much easier to do in a hoist and with the subframe totally out of the picture. Torquing it all back down is time consuming but straight forward - 8Nm +90 degrees. Engine mounts are simple, problem is the top of them isnt keyed to the engine, so need to be tightened with the lower section already in the lower key.. Access to the top nut is a bit of pig with the lowers tight however! The old mounts have noticeably more movement in them than the new, no sign of rubber cracking but I assume the fluid filled lower section is dead. Lining the subframe up and bolting it back down is a bit like wrestling a mechanical octopus... Could do just the sump gasket in 2 days pretty easily.

So much want!

Day 2 part 2 Sump off. Quiet odd, bolt torques were allover the place, some were hand tight others very tight. May have been oil interfering with the factory thread locker? The drain back tube from the CCV system would be a total mare to remove without the quick disconnect tool (1/2"). Its very tight and in a very tight spot. Id place money on the fact they all seem to leak at the same spot, lowest aft corner, is that that is also the location where the gasket steel frame is also joined.. German engineering! Will put it back together with a thin smear of sealant. I was hoping to pull the windage tray off too have more of a looksee at the innards but it requires disturbing the oil pick up into the pump, and id rather not bust an o ring and cause it to starve. Bloody hard to get a decent picture of block innards...

Day 1.5 - cup of tea time update. Anti drop engine in face bar installed. Had to tweak the tow fitting, knocked the edge off with a die grinder as it was fouling on the rocker cover. Pulled the airbox out for access, and to get some light! Subframe comes out easy. Few little things to disconnect, 4 engine mount bolts (funny lookin things) and 6 subframe bolts. Bit of a wiggle and jiggle and down it comes, along with about a kg of road stones. 10000000_450039405477835_7695946383546510403_n.mp4

And probably the first to 300,000 km

Anyone got one of these handy, somehow Ive lost one along the way. p/n 07146949380

Day 1 take 2. Lots of prep and some more cleaning.. Thanks oil leak. All looks good on the suspension. Bumpers and bonnet off and off to paint shop to be resprayed. No more stone chips, for a week at least. Turns out e91 fits many things. One wheel off for a kerbing repair, clipped an apex a lil tight! Will leave oil to drain overnight, then front subframe out tomorrow.

Yeah the only thing that actually worked was ISTA+ CCV kit is stuck in customs, but whenever it turns up Ill pull the intake manifold and replace it to, as the oil level fluctuating is still weird. Car drives mint though. Any theories on how the DME learns to behave so poorly? Im assuming it was just cranking the fuel trims looking at the graphs.

Totally agree, its a farce. Dont get me wrong there are some good doctors, but damn there are a lot of hacks out there who get pumped out of the machine... After an absolute hack (he was googling anatomy sh*t in front of me) twice misdiagnosed my broken ankle as a sprain, sent me back to work with instructions to take it easy on it. I refused to pay the bill, after walking around in pain for a week as it was just a sprain.. I went to a different surgery who instantly stuck my leg in an MRI and discovered my talar dome had a crack in it.. (2 months in a cast, 2 more months of light duties...) If I hadnt got a 2nd (3rd?) opinion I wouldve kept on walking around on a broken ankle and then wouldve had to have corrective surgery to stick all the bits back in the right places. Some of them are just there to dish out panadols and get paid 6 figures for it, and you have no idea which one knows what they are talking about, and which doesn't ?

Was curious too see what the actual price difference is between hyperdrive and tirerack. 235/35/19 PS4S Tirerack $434 NZD Incl Gst + Shipping Hyper $475 NZD Incl Not worth the hassle in this case.

E8* 1 series are the closest to a "modern" E30, differing body styles, but in terms of ethos and sizing. First thing I thought when took the 130 for a drive was the similarities to how it felt and drove to my old one. The F** 2 series M2 got bloaty again, nice cars but they drift further away from the reasons the 1M was "perfect" Were the tii style pinstriping you see on a few 1Ms a BMW Performance option?

Anyone got some sanely priced 135i calipers, front and rear. Dont mind if they are dirty/paint damaged. Will rebuild/paint and retrofit to the 130, just need the calipers (will rebuild as the BMW performance units with BMW P rotors)

FCPEuro do a kit for like $200us

was an eagle F1 assy 2, one of the originals when I bought the car (have been through a few sets..) no idea how old it was.

SOLVED!! *dancing* Installed ISTA+ and got a K+DCAN cable. A few hours of naffing around to get it installed and talking and BOOM! Reset the engine DME learning and adaptations and its solved. Also using less gas and pulling harder, it doesnt feel way slower than the 130 anymore... It was like flicking a switch between runs like a dog and runs like new... Yay for piracy

Ive done 100,000k on non run flats, with no spare, probably been lucky but havent been stranded yet! (couple of quick trips to the tyre shop for puncture repairs, and one delam, but still... not stranded! )

Now all I need is some time.. looks to be quite a bit of work removing the car from the sump. Reasonbly cheap parts though, couple of hundred bucks for everything including all new bolts and the engine mounts. Even the engine support was only $80.

Put car on tardme. Price it above everything similar, as its better. One text message 2 days after listing, comes around an hour later, looks it over, pays you asking price in cash with no haggling or screwing around and takes car. Why cant all tardmes be like this!

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=PG56-EUR-12-2011-E90N-BMW-320i&diagId=11_3296 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/other/listing-1703024465.htmhttps://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/other/listing-1703024465.htm If its actually blown the seals out, its probably not the seals however

Got it dirty.

Manukau specifically, I have a wide brush

Got all the bits to do the sump gasket and engine mounts on it... and just realised I was looking at the wrong diagram and have ordered the sump bolts for an auto trans engine.. apparently they differ. Doh ? Im going to try drop the subframe while disconnecting as little as possible, some people say the whole subframe must come out (ie drop the suspension as well) others seem to have done it and left all the suspension together and have around a foot of clearance with the subframe still attached to suspension and the subframe simply lowered. Has anyone actually done this here and able to comment?