Jacko

Doh, cleared.

I wonder how much of it is more modern cars not scaring the sh*t out of you when doing medium level dumb ideas, stability control, slushboxes etc combined with a NVH levels that allow you to play on your phone in total comfort? Kinda similar train of thought to that roading experiment where they got rid of all the speed limits, and the accident rate dropped as drivers got a lot more aware and cautious about what they, and everyone else, was doing. Wonder what the accident rate world wide is doing?

Gave it a much deserved wax, as a nice break from pulling the sump off the toyota...

Has anyone played with the uber expensive waxes? Does wax costing triple digits stack up?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1607174464.htm?rsqid=fd873a663feb4000b0982a2603a75dc6 Uk import? I dont think japan got the 2 door hatch either (or if they did, rocking horse)

Prime candidates for seem to be SUVs, and from my sample while driving: everyone who drives a new ford ranger Judging from the sample set "whos crashed into me and neighbours fence in the last 12 months" 1x Suzuki Swift, 1x Mitzi Canter Truck, 1x Vt Holden, 2x Honda Odyssey, 1x Honda Accord.... After the first few crashes, AT put in a new 50kmh sign. The Suzuki actually crashed into it, and it did slow the car down before it hit the fence, so good job there.

Drivers are the issue. There are some inept numpties on the roads. I do 1500km a week, I seen some sh*t

Done!

https://www.kommentools.com/products/bmw-rear-suspension-subframe-bushing-tool-set-for-e87-and-e90 This tool set used to remove and Install front and rear bushings in the rear subframe. Applicable: BMW E87 and E90/91/92/93 Used once, very high quality (would suit a workshop). Makes doing the subframe bushes very easy. the adjustable section is awesome for doing bushes that nothing else fits as well. Note the pictures not quite right (old?) adjustable section is far more trick (like the e53 one on kommen site) Cost $600+ landed in NZ, $400

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/schwaben-silent-block-tool-set/024979sch01a/ Remove and install rear ball joints on E38, E39, E60/61, E63/64, E65/66, and E70's Removal and installation of ball joints and bushings on rear control arms on E36, E46, E39, E60/61, E63/64, E65/66, E70, E83 and E85/86 Z4's Removal and installation of rear subframe mounted differential bushings on E36, E46, E83 and E85/86 Z4's Removal and installation of rear differential mounted bushings on E36, E46, E9X, E60/61, E63/64, E65/66, and E85/86 Z4's Used once, pretty decent quality, has some handy sizes (fits a bunch more than whats listed) $100

Are there any legit used car dealers left in NZ?

Are there two Jackos?.. Or did I buy and sell an E34 with being aware?

Changing the angel eyes bulbs in a 1 series requires removing wheel well liners. Or, dislocating wrists, dropping the bulbs and then removing the wheel well liners to get the bulbs back.

Nah they go in pretty easily, rattle gun helps in removing them from the hub. Just be sure to make sure the rubber bush on LCA is at ride height before you torque it up (otherwise the rubber gets loaded up and it effectively changes the spring rate (and kills the bush)) . I just noted where the hub sat in relation to the wheel well when on the deck, then jacked up the hub to that point before tightening.

Love my ryobi one+ R18IW

Eagle F1 A3s, 19s on 225 front 235 rear.

Check out https://luxxio.co.nz/ as well, kiwi company with product actually developed here, at a decent price, awesome service, and its actually good stuff as well I havent come across anything like their "speedy coating" from anyone else before, its legit. The luxury wash works great in foam gun, as good as anything else Ive tried. Agent X wheel cleaner is good too, not as "grunty" as dragons blood but easier to use. As Breaker said, OCD are great as well.

500km on it now, still being gentle on the clutch, but, some thoughts. Its hard to break up whats doing what, since did so much at once - But Turn is night and day difference. It feels agile AF. The front end is so much more reactive, and you can feel the extra camber. Body roll is minimal, significantly less than the M sport sway bars. Gokart is a bit cliche, but Gokart. The ride is different, hard to say if its softer or firmer. It is MUCH more compliant, but can now feel the road. Its like its deleted the potholes, but left the road behind. No more crashiness, however the assometer now senses the pebbles. Back end feels very planted, no more squirmyness under hard (in gear) acceleration. With the clutch still being babied, its hard to say how effective the LSD will be, however in all the wet weather have definitely noticed the lack of the DSC light on the dash flashing at me every 2 minutes. BMW should have talked to Birds when they originally did the suspension setup, probably not the M3 geometry stuff as its a little darty for the average numpty, but the B1 sway bars, springs, and shocks are a thousand times better than the M kit setup as a road car. 3 thumbs up. Have been watching my oil leak, its very minor, can wait until the next oil change and Ill do it and probably the engine mounts when Im there.

Ferrari 488 on SH1 heading south out of Auckland. With the indicators flashing all over the place as the driver tried to find the wiper controls

Any update on this, in the same situation. Tossing up DIY Vs dumping it at a shop. Parts are cheap, lots of labour by the looks though

Drives awesome, now that that 40 odd mm of toe in is gone It feels firmer than stock, but nowhere near as crashy as standard M suspension, turn in and steering feel is epic! You can feel the diff working even when driving semi normally... Unfortunately it looks like it wasnt just the input seal on the box that was leaking, ass end of the engine oil sump gasket is weeping Its not pissing out, just can see new "dampness" now its all clean. I wonder if retorqueing them is a good or bad idea (single use ali bolts) to see if it fixes it. Dropping the subframe to get the sump out looks like a lot of work.

Day D. It moves. Exhaust, heatshields, etc back together. Bled the coolant system and gingerly lowered it back down. Clutch feels fine, no noticeable extra noise or roughness from the SMF. Ill reserve judgment on the clutch until its broken in and I can stamp on it. Gearshift is epically tight, feels like its gated. In the little drive i took it for to leak check i didnt notice any vibes etc being transferred. No leaks, or fault codes ( other than the alarm battery nonsense ) Needs a wheel alignment (tomorrow) as its all kinds of crazy at the moment!

Jack stands currently under going extreme testing

Day Tuesday. Box if beers as bribery and got some mates around to install box. Cut the heads off two of the old ali bolts to use as guide "studs" It went in and about 3minutes, all lined up freakishly well. No butchery required, very minor jiggling. The top bolts were again a total nightmare to get in and torque, took about an hour per bolt, other than that all went smoothly. Pic of the extension setup used, and all the tape to hold the head of bolt in socket and the universals tight enough to guide the bolts in. Shifter reinstalled, feels amazeballs. Clutch bled, its all downhill from here! Looking forward to seeing the difference.

The F*&(^Kng bolt at the top of the (&(*)& box into the )*&(#(^ head of N52, who put that there! Need 12 foot long tweezers. Deep breaths.