Andre3000

So the e38 doesn't bolt onto the e30 booster?

The e38 sounds alot betterer with 27mm, matches sti perfectly. Apart from T'ing the front lines from the e38 MC in an e30 did you encounter any other difficulties? I will order my bias valve now as it seems I'm definitely going to need it.

I am looking at replacing the e30 booster for a golf mkII's. Also want to upgrade the e30 MC as I've upgraded the brake calipers. The Brembo's are off a 2003 sti which has a 26.9mm piston bore. The e30 MC has a 22mm bore diameter. I'm thinking of replacing it with an e32 master cylinder which has a 25mm bore. Has anyone done this before, or can offer any thoughts on master cylinder upgrade?

Has the firewall be massaged to fit? I'm using the e30 harness & ecu (motronic 1.1) so its the right fitment for the car already. Haha i hope so.... Look out for a post coming up in the next few weeks titled: "skids o'clock" Steve: I can get a wof, the only thing worrying me would be an inspection from a nosey officer, if i had no cert or authority card.

Yeah that's the plan. Gna try make one with a zip in between the stitching so as to access the locking pin. Would i actually get a warrant with all these mods though? Any decent wof outfit would see that most of the car is not standard. It hought you had to get a cert before a warrant was issued for modified cars, even if I didn't have a hydraulic e-brake.

Yup waiting for my competition licence and log book, then getting an authority card.

So here's my hydraulic handbrake setup for the e30. Took me no longer than 5 hours to install and cost me $229.00 in total. This build is about keeping the original look, while altering the functionality so i attempted to install the handbrake in the same position as the oem. I had to shorten the lever an inch to fit the surround, and I also removed the surrounds ashtray so the MC would fit. Also a shot of my new knob...

Plastic brake tubing would be scary stuff!! I'll do a brake test to see if i need the bias valve, then go from there. Front brakes are brembo 4 pots, got the set of front and rears off a wrecked sti. I'm assuming with a matching set I shouldn't have too much trouble but i haven't driven the sucker yet. So it panned out much easier than i expected to install. I had to shorten the lever an inch to fit properly in the original surround, which I modified rather heavily to accept the new addition. Instead of T'ing into the rear line i just rerouted the original lines/T fitting, therefore only 2 flanges to do instead of 4.

A sharper price than 305 might lure customers. I'd be keen if it was more like $250.

Ok steel lines, rigid tubing same thing. what i meant was I'm not going to use braided lines. I feel the factory lines are just as reliable if not more. I don't see how it would cost me more than $400 for the whole setup, including wilwood bias valve. I've already looked into MC sizing. With the brembo 2 pot rears its going to need a 3/4.

You should be able to pick one up for a max of 4000 in manual. The thermostat & plastic water fittings are usually the things to go first. I'd replace thermo if there's no evidence of being done. I'm not sure about putting the 328 to shame, maybe in fuel consumption? Definitely not 0-100.

Also would there be any reason why rigid tubing wouldn't be allowed? I want to avoid braided to keep the cost down.

What am I looking at in terms of pricing for an authority card? And also do I have to join BMWCCNZ to get access to a scrutineer? Thanks for your tonne of info, it helps to wade through all the misguided jibberjabber on the net these days.

You don't have a manual gear boot lying around do you? I need the plastic bracket.

Not sure as yet, keen to get into some track days/drift days, learn a bit more about vehicle setup and take it from there. Hoping the Open class will change its regulations for non oem turbos.

Thanks for that, Can I apply for an authority card before getting the lvv cert?

What if i get a clubsport licence & logbook? Then apply for authority card/lvv cert?

So your return is definitely going to be below oil line all of the time? Do you have any drainage issues? The fan's almost level with the top of the cam cover. I'm not going to be able to drive until a decent tune is done, unless someone wants to school me on fuel ratios and duty cycles? My laptop shat itself anyway... New XR6 injectors & dyno tune are just under 2 weeks away, fingers X'd.

How's yours coming along? The rear of the head is almost touching the heat/sound deadening on the firewall. Radiator has to be recessed into bonnet support frame, no room for Air Con heat exchanger. Will chuck up a photo this weekend. Let me give it a clean first..... On that topic does anyone know where i can a good under-body steam clean done?

I'm installing a hydraulic handbrake into my e30, am wondering which way would be the most durable/effective. It will be in the same place/configuration as original handbrake lever. Either the "in-line' way which intercepts the line from brake MC, tapping it through the handbrake and back to the rear brakes. Or, using a handbrake MC with its own reservoir, connected to the rear lines through a T fitting before the branch to separate rear brakes.

I've always used Woolfe mufflers, never had a problem

Hoping he will, Steve's opinion is a valued one. Interesting point about the crank, any ideas on shielding without removal of the sump?. Heres how it ended up It will be shielded next week as its closest point to manifold is just over an inch. Sly dog front mount.... I'm still deciding whether or not to paint the piping black too, but i kinda like the polished look.

^ What he said, needs to drain as straight as possible to the sump with no tight bends. Will update with photos this arvo after I put it back together.

So I've slowly been building a replica of my old e30 that was stolen end of 2009. Having the previous experience has made it a sh*t load easier, and I also know what NOT to do, i won't name the bastards... Anyway you can't change the past but you can definitely modify the present! My project now is a Jap import 1989 320i. Was a mint car and seemed a shame to dismantle but it was necessary. With the help of Brent, Martyn & Steve i've been able to piece together an m30 that fits operationally into the e30 bay. A minor problem I've had though is oil seepage past the turbo seals. This is due to the return being too small and the bends too tight. I redrilled and tapped the sump to 1/2 BSP and threaded a brass fitting into the sucker, the external diameter of which is 19mm, which coincidentally fits -12AN hose perfectly I am in the process of doing the same at the turbo end. I will run -12 rubber hose which has a nice ID of 19mm and heat shielding as its gonna run damn close to the headers.

Thanks for this in depth description, passed that on to my brother who has a very stubborn duke block.