KwS

If its an mk1b, I believe the part number is 52021-17021 and may still be available. Mk1a are discontinued. Looks like it maybe quite a complex part to fabricate, but would be doable with enough time and money.

Bump

Two of the best things I did in my 335i were linear throttle and boost by gear. Hugely recommend it. Even with an LSD without them it was a toss of the coin to which way the back end would slide if you took off with a bit of gusto. Linear throttle meant I had much more control over how much throttle I was actually giving the engine at any one time, and boost by gear meant I could run stock boost in first gear to get off the line smoothly, a couple of PSI more in second to start hauling, and then maximum boost in the rest of the gears. A+ would trade again.

Those Alpina sound like they are E36/E46 offset though. Ps, buy the M parallels, they're gorgeous.

Can you get a photo of the markings on the backside of the wheel face? That'd give you an idea of what it is

Oh gutted, freedom spec engine strikes again.

I wasn't aware of that, I thought only the E36 M3 got that poxy "US ///M" motor and the zeds got the full fat euro engine?

This doesn't compute eh. M54B30 is factory rated for 228hp, so that will be at the flywheel and less ATW. My old S50B30 made 240hp ATW, and the B32 makes more than that, sooooooo.... I'm with you on that one. Someone is spinning a story there.

Ouch, yeah, way over priced. Not Motorsport, no cruise, no paddleshift, no comfort access, no light package, no xenon, pretty basic really.

I know when i had the E91 i looked into Carly and there were warnings about certain FRM units that would sh*t the bed if used with Carly. Maybe related? http://support.mycarly.com/knowledge-base/carly-safe-coding-specially-regarding-frm-ecu/

A lot of cars have locking tabs/washers and according to realoem and google the e36 is one of them. looks like they were axed for the e46 so will run without. Thanks for the info on the lock stops. Sounds like something I don't need, so will run without.

Do they double as locking washers to lock the inner rack ends or is it just to shorten lock?

Came out of a compact. What are the stops? It looks like the e36 used thin metal washers as locking tabs? No sign of anything for locking tabs in realoem for e46 ti

Iirc the common single mass conversion flywheel is an M20 one? I recall that's what was used when my 323i was converted. I believe there are good options for flywheel and clutch kits on trademe now, but someone else will need to chime in on that.

E46 steering rack. Do they use locking tabs on the inner rack ends? Rack came without ends, and new ends dont have locking tabs.

Welcome back. E36 life is best life. Hellrot really does suit the shape, lovely.

Made my e36 too low. Now to raise it up so I can get out the driveway.

Big end breaings on the crank. Doing that is also covered in the same video series (and episode) I mentioned above.

If you haven't already, have a look at the Weekends With Moose series on the Speed Academy Youtube channel. They are doing an E36 M3 Euro project, and one of the episodes focuses on the sump. The standard sump looks to have good baffles anyway, but an upgrade to a 3.2 dual pickup pump and sump would be better if you were on the track.

Typical Q&A warriors talking sh*t with no intention of buying. I kinda agree on the whole, should cert before sale thing, but also know what it's like when you just don't have time to do it. Looks like a tidy example though

I havent, but will keep it in mind. My only issue is the rough idle, it starts first pop hot or cold. Will see what happens with the new FPR and maybe do the relays anyway later.

Interesting, that one idled like a dream. I recall I had the intake off at one point but dont remember why. Be worth checking the ICV and its piping. Also worth checking fuel pressure as that warm start issue is usually a sign of the fuel pump one-way valve failing and bleeding all the residual pressure away. Easiest to test the fuel pressure from under the car, at the outlet of the fuel filter, rather than trying to get at the fuel hose at the back of the rail. In regards to the current one, I tested the fuel pressure today. The FPR is rated at a max of 3BAR (43psi). At idle, with the vac line attached, I had 50psi. With the vac line attached, according to the manual, I should see 6-10psi less than 43psi at idle, so should have about 35psi or so. New FPR is on the way, so will see what happens when I replace that. Fingers crossed.

Not the only one! Realistically it's not that bad, a slight stumble when warm and lumpy when cold. Just bothers me not knowing what it is!

Its a tad primitive. Its no wonder they changed to the Siemens on the B32 Good point on the tube. Mine doesn't seem bothered, but I made sure to unhook it further down the engine bay so it could move and not bend.

Another part of trying to sort the idle is to replace the idle control valve, which has been a bit suspect from the beginning. I don't particularly enjoy taking the intake off, but its the only way to get to the idle valve. I cleaned the idle valve a while back, but obviously it was still suspect. Even after cleaning I was still getting a reading of zero in DIS for idle air flow (I haven't had a chance to test since replacement). After some research it turned out that the S50B30 idle valve is shared with the M60/M62 BMW V8 engines, so although its bigger and not shared with the other I6 engines, it's not too hard to source one from an E34/E39/E38. I got a good used replacement, and got to work pulling the intake out again. Thankfully last time I had it all off I chose to fit a pod filter instead of the standard airbox, as that was one part that pissed me off a lot when reassembling; refitting the airbox. Taking the plenum off doesn't take too long, it's just a bit fiddly. Here we go again Out came the old valve. The only difference between the M6x ones and S50 is that there is a rubber grommet on the M6x ones. Once you pull that off, they are the same, even down to Bosch part number. It became obvious that despite me cleaning it, the original valve was still sticking, and it moved nowhere near as freely as the used replacement. An easy test of how freely they operate is to twist/shake the unit side to side and see how easily the shutter inside it moves. The old one needs quite a firm shake to move the shutter, whilst the replacement moves very freely. I suspect this is how the original one moved in DIS but may not be working correctly. With a full whack of voltage to fully open or close it (as the DIS test does), it works OK, but you can't finesse the movement and tweak it just a little. With one of my previous orders, I had ordered a replacement mount for the valve, as the old one was brittle and broke last time I removed it (hence the zip tie in the above photos). On went the new mount. I fit the replacement valve, reassembled, and tested. It seems the idle acts a bit better than it did, with noticeable changes when load is applied at idle, but it's still rough and misfiring at idle, so obviously the idle valve was an issue, but not related to my original fault.