bravo

bloody hell. That's not right. Just when police-public relations were at an all time high... [/insert sarcasm] I'd buy one of the units, would be a 5 min job to hook it up to my alarm for GPS tracking and cell phone alerts, and $250 is about a quarter to a sixth of the cost to buy one retail.

In my book Audi can do no wrong. Even their interiors are the best in the business.

Thanks David. Have never owned a 4-cyl e30.

To elaborate just a little on M3 Power's coments: *Power Steering fluid black and burnt Agree probably just very old fluid, but worst case scenario is new rack and pump. These are inexpensive secondhand items and cheap if you do it yourself, but expect a bill of $600 upwards if you pay someone (parts included). You should in the first instance change the fluid to prevent any damage to the pump or rack and see if the new fluid deteriorates abnomrally fast. $20 for fluid and half an hours labour. *Right hand engine damper leaking Leaking??? Engine mounts don't leak - they are made of rubber. So not sure on this one. If it is just the engine mount they are around $100 RRP for both and an hour's labour. You should definitely do this as if you are in a minor accident or break in a hurry the mount might let go and your engine will end up in the radiator. If it is the shock absorber (which can leak) then budget $400+ for 2 new shocks and an hours labour to install. *Rear control arm inner bushes inner and outer perished, both sides By control arm I assume they mean the trailing arms. Common and lsomewhere around $100 for the bushes I guess. Another hour labour maybe less depending on their familiarity with e30's. Otherwise they may be talking about the sway bar bushes - similar parts cost, slightly less labour. *Oil leak at rear of gearbox Potentially expensive. If its slow, top up the box occaisionally and worry about it later. As long as you keep it topped up ( a pain if itsmanual - easy if its auto), then you won't cause any damage. *Signs of coolant weep at heater hose connections at rear of cylinder head. Sounds like a cheap fix. But maybe check to ensure it is just the hose or loose connection and not a corroded hose barb or something a bit trickier. budget around $45-60/hour depending on where you live or who you go to. If all else fails contact the people who did the inspection - they will explain all. you didn't pay them to get a sheet of information you dont understand. More than likely they'll be more than happy to explain - especially if they think they might get work out of it. Not a bad list for an e30 depending on the purchase price. DIY is definitley cheaper if you can do it. I recently bought an e30 for a grand. Replaced the auto trans, driveshaft bearing, motor mounts, cambelt, tensioner, replaced the steerig universal, fixed minor electrical gremlins, wipers and lights, did an oil change and auto fluid change, flushed and replaced the coolant and fixed a leaky coolant hose, replaced the alternator belt and got a new WOF and reg all up cost only $750 plus my own labour. Would have been closer to $3000 all up if I'd paid someone. DIY FTW.

Hey thanks mate. That is probably it as in the past I've had a loose connection on the drivers side rear lamp that fixed itself over time. Maybe its just manifesting itself in a different way? I'll look into it.

There will be holes that hold the plat holder on correct? Drill appropriate holes in your plate and use the screws that hold the holder on. I've had euro plates on my vehicles for 2-3 years with quality double sided foam tape and last time I took one off to install the tech_II kit I had to work very hard to get it off. The tape works great.

Feel free. Remove your shoes, Beer is in the fridge. Pictures of your ride are more or less compulsory.

When I indicate left and depress the brake pedal, the check panel lights up for Rear Lights and License Plate Lights. Indicators, brake lights are working fine. Turn on headlights and rear lights and license plate lights are working fine. Any ideas?

I've never thought of Howick as being short of bimmers...

And the long answer: The onus would be on you to prove your GPS was accurate enough and calibrated (same as their guns have to be). GPS are not designed to give velocity (although they do and quite accurately too). It depends alot on the way in which the unit calculates velocity. Whether it is an averaged velocity calculated from your position change over time, whether it is calculated from the doppler shift in the satellite signal or the latter smoothed with the former. Each unit uses one of these methods, and there are varying accuracies associated with each.

Very rough idea: All of the above (head bolts etc). Plus piping, intercooler (optional - recommended), s/c Brackets and fabrication to install. fair bit of work to design and install with a belt to run s/c, get piping to fit and work etc. Then you probably should run an aftermarket computer to make sure you get it tuned right and thus avoid the negative effects of running too rich or too lean etc (can blow headgaskets and more). Cheapest option as far as aftermarket computers is about $1000 plus installation and tuning. This is the roughest run-down. Missed a few details, but I'm yet to fully price up and sort out a parts list myself, so thats the best I can do. But at this stage looks definitely cheaper and easier than turbo.

I'm looking at forced induction with low boost (6-7 psi). If you have a strong m20, then some head preventative maintenance by way of inspection of the top end, new head gasket, stronger head bolts etc, then you will get away without rebuilding the motor or upgrading all the internals. You could consider cams and uprated valve springs if you like at the same time. Then do a junkyard supercharger setup, and keep boost low and you should get the same gains as Andrews stroker method for less money, but also less reliability as you won't have a fully rebuilt motor. Options Options... But these all cost as much or more (almost definately more) than your quoted rebuild. And that is doing lots of work yourself (which my guess is you aren't). You can buy a strong m20b25 for $800-1200 depending on mileage or if its been rebuilt and installation is as close to plug and play as you can get. You'll be swapping a tired 90kw or less m20b20 for a 125kw m20b25. Good idea. That's 30% gains for a couple of grand and you still have the old motor to flick off.

rofl jimbo you cynical bugger. Alothough probably never a truer word.

I've had good experiences with Dunlop SP Sport Maxx in a 20545r17. Direzza's are similar, but cheaper. Sport Maxx is the Dunlop replacement for the older SP9000 series tyre which I also had and were also good.

No. Not if you are running the correct size tyres. The law says that the diameter cannot change by more than 5% from standard when changing wheel size. Therefore if you have the correct tyre size for your bigger wheels, going back to standard won't make any difference. Its all perceptive/optical illusion unless you were running the wrong size tyres.

repost

Yeah all good, just passing on the comments made as a culmination of many hours of discussion amongst alot of people both on and off this forum. Martyn - power bang for buck is the reason. Look at the HP and torque figures for m20b25, m20b27, m50b25, m52b28, and compare the various costs of doing each and you'll soon see why. But I guess like anthony says, it can always just escalate and escalate. Becasue even if you go down the FI route (probably best bang for buck) not only do you spend alot doing it, but then you make enough power that you have to upgrade brakes etc also which adds to cost again.

Several of us have looked into it. Usually the conversations go like this: Unless you are rebuilding the m20 anyway, you are better off doing an m50 swap. If you are going to do an m50 swap, for the little bit extra you are better off doing an m52b28 swap. Or looking at FI on your m20 which you are rebuilding anyway. But all that said, it's probably still not a bad way to go.

There is not a chrome wheel made on the planet that looks better than any of those.

Big ups for being the most committed e30 owner on bimmersport. no-one else I know would be willing to pour $10k on a body kit, $20k on sounds, plus rims and springs into a 17yo 318i auto. You must love your car.

I found it. But only because I remember that Gus posted it and called it rebuild, not conversion.

The 3-piece RS's that wide are very hard to get. I think you can buy them new and they are easily $2k new. Hi Tower's ones aren't as wide AFAIK. I have no idea what gomtorr wants for them, but I know roughly what was involved in fully refurbishing them and it was quite involved.

lol. Evidently.