bravo

Hey Andrei - Russian spelling... The bumper setup f/l to pre f/l is entirely different both in terms of the look, but also lights and mounting. Once you had both set up and running you could lok into making kits that fit on the other cars - lots more work, but that would be cool. Side skirts are easier as the mtech I (pre f/l) fit on the f/l cars also. mtech II would fit on pre f/l but would look terrible as they would stick out funnily. Good luck - its more work than it sounds, but if you are committed and put the effort in, you'll have a good, saleable product. My advice woul be start with something for the newer cars (as much as we all like e30's) as there is a bigger market, and that market is also more cash-rich. e30 owners are cheap, broke buggers as a general rule.

I agree wholeheartedly with what has been said, but we're a bunch of precious assholes aren' we?

I wish I had the spare time to game. I played Need For Speed (some version or other) on xbox 360 for about an hour on the weekend. I think that's the first gaming I've done all year. (Playing Buzz and Guitar Hero on the piss doesn't count)

I was looking at where the needle was in your clip. Was the speedo graduated same as this one? Badass if it is.

That's a very nice conversion. Good luck with the sale. Not sure how much interest you'll receive as this smacks of many scams we've been getting over here lately. You're the third person to advertise a vehicle overseas for what seems like a cheap price. Bet that thing moves though - nice work!

Lowering the car shouldn't have anything to do with it. Sounds like your auto is stuffed. The vibration may be to do with worn mounts or driveshaft hanger bearing, but it doesn't sound like your diff, and the universal joint won't cause "slipping". Its a joint - if it breaks, it breaks. If it wears out, it will cause vibration. Not slipping. Have you checked the auto fluid level lately?

Yes - There are different kits for pre f/l and f/l, the kits and cars above are pre f/l.

That Schnitzer front air dam is smoooooth Riley.

I knew you'd like me using that pic Gus...

Yeah, pretty much. Undo circlip and slip off - dust cover comes off also. If you don't have a gear puller, put the joint in a vice (use Al or wood vice blocks and firm, but tight) and then "gently' remove using a hammer and anvil tapping evenly all around the bearing. Obviously the correct tool is the gear puller or press, but if you are stuck, the hammer method works. P.S. CRC is your friend.

mtech-I - badass.

Driveshaft hangers are different pre f/l to f/l and are easily swapped over. 10min job even without a press if you've done it before. Don't listen to that bollocks about removing the whole motor - that is a huge pain. All you have to do next time is undo the motor mounts, and then hoist the engine from the front hoisting point about 50 mm - the weight will transfer back and the gearbox will tip down enough to make access to those bolts relatively easy (Still need all the extensions etc for leverage, but you can get your hand on the bolt to get teh socket on easily. I've done 5 gearbox swaps now and never taken the motor out of the car. They get easier every time as you learn little tricks. (like undoing the two bolts holding the sway bar bushes on so the bar drops enough to undo the inspection cover - 2 second job for so much less pain later. Not sure which coolant pipe would be in the way??? Also, the manual box is easier as it is smaller, and lighter. Hope you remembered to put the spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft before putting the gearbox and clutch on. Good luck.

Cool rims. Welcome.

Hey joe, Batteries changed about a month ago for an unrelated reason. Found another loose connection on one of my tail lights and problem appears to be fixed. Cheers.

Agree. But when you are given a free subscription you may as well read it.

Yeah I noticed. Reviving this thread as they've done it again (secret Bimmer fan at Top Gear Mag???) Any way - Mini Clubman pages 15-19 (OK not really BMW, but wait - there's more). X Coupe Concept mention on pge 22. E92 m3 mention on page 23. 635d full-page summary page 24. Review of the X5 page 54-55. And then on the money, a little tribute to M-cars pages 117-120 ending on a gem of a quote: Gold.

Left hand thread?

Lucky bastard.

Haha - I got that on VHS cassette - taped off the TV many years ago. Its a classic.

Or wait a month or so. Naked DSL is coming. i.e. broadband on your landline, but you won't need to have a phone account. According to my g/f who works for a broadband company they will be offering it in about a month.

Havn't read the article so flame if I've got this wrong, but you're right about the m30 being much heavier and ruining the already slightly front heavy weight distribution of an e30 with an m20. but if the guy did as much lightening as possible to the whole front end of the car, and cut his firewall to push the motor back (common on m30 swaps as it is also the only way you can run a mechanical fan), then it should be possible to get close to stock weight distribution. Better? unlikely.

Get a room.

Noone was bagging your opinion.

Looks like a tidy conversion. I've always been partial to a rotor.

BTW that's mostly e30 info (my post). e36 may be different - just realised that's what you drive.