bravo

Read it again Alex. That is what I said.

Yeah no worries. SC14. It's fine for the low boost I'm running, but I've already decided that long term I need a bigger one

BTW, the guys comments about cruise control on that how to are wrong. You just remove a jumper under the dash, passenger side and cruise works perfectly.

They should work. The control for the mirrors is on the drivers door grip handle. There is a left/right slide switch and a joystick. If they don't work, you need to check fuses and then the next step would be see an auto sparky to test the switch and motors.

Hi. It's been explained how to do it before. Click search top right and have a look.

One for me, one for the missus, and one to tow stuff and play in the mud. Plus company car that I don't have to pay for thank god. Although while I'm playing with the e-dirty and KT is at uni, I'm dailying the MR2. Even worse for those who like to collect old cars. Doesn't mean they're wealthy as we're not talking $50-100k cars necessarily. The old man pays rego on a 1942 Willy's Jeep, a '69 beetle, a 77 datsun cherry, an '86 e30 vert, plus his daily and a ute for carting stuff about. Only the Willy's is on vintage car rego. If it wasn't for both him and mum having company cars, there'd be two more on top of that... It's beside the point anyway. Why levy per vehicle anyway??? If you own more than one you can only drive one at a time...

Just exercise due car with the pickle-fork type splitter as you can tear the rubber boot around the joint. I prefer the more expensive screw-on type.

Do a search, but the"correct" method if you don't use a ball joint separator is undo the nut until it is level with the top of the thread so if you miss with your hammer, you hit the nut, not the thread, then apply downward pressure on the arm you want to remove with a lever (a friend doing this frees your hands up, but possible alone) and then smack the flat area on the strut the ball joint thread passes through. It's a tapered shaft - all you have to do is shock it free.

The original Auction listed them as SSA wheels. Perhaps they're not, just similar style. I like them.

I want to know whether it shrinks, whether dirt will collect at the edges, and what residue it leaves behind after say 3-5 years? I'm presuming the manufacturer will claim none, and that may be the case, but I'd like to see it 3 years down the track out of interest's sake.

Other communist cars????? China: Cuba: North Korea: Laos: Vietnam:

Who needs a fast car when you're carrying an AK-47????

Ouch. Keep the bad-taste comments to yourselves please (one in particular I have removed - think before you type). What if those hit were you friends/family? I feel sorry for the driver. Without knowing the details, you could assume that he was driving on a sanctioned track on an organised day. Crowd control isn't his responsibility and in that sport there are offs all the time. The responsibility lies with the organisers and to some degree the spectators.

Thanks Andrew. Good info Ron. Still researching...

I thought you would have agreed with some of the points George made on ES, Graham.

+0.9. You've heard my car Graham. You seem to like the way it sounds. Unfortunately the Polizei may not.... In general the bills are as expected in our over-legislated society, and most won't affect legitimate road users, but there are certain parts that don't wash. I'm also disappointed with the work done to formulate this act. Two things in particular: 1/ No research has been done in regard to the possible negative effects to motorists. The bill simply states there are none. This is a total cop-out. 2/ Consultation was weak and only inter-department. What happened to consulting with parties with vested interests? LVVTA, AA, and so on?????

Further to that, PORTNOY has not ever contributed positively to this forum. He's back again for the sole purpose to sell something. Banned. Fail.

Not really Tony, now there is a Bill being considered, the ramifications to the non-boy-racer car enthusiast must be considered. The rego plate thing in particular really gets my goat.

That's not correct. It actually says "require a vehicle ordered off the road for excessive exhaust noise to undergo an objective (metered) noise test to reduce the occurrence of exhaust swapping or tampering:" The down side is that this will be at the driver's cost, and that as you say, even a legal cert will not be enough to stop having to pay for the test. It would be possible for a cop to abuse this by pulling you over on a weekly/monthly basis and ordering another test in case you have "swapped" or "Tampered" with your exhaust. Most of the measures are ok as they deal with the worst offenders, but the anti-cruising, rego plate and exhaust ones are too draconian.

Link to main bill Confiscation and Seizure Bill If nothing else, you should read the explanatory note. It'd be worth following this through Parliament, but I suspect that come 1 December it'll be in force in more or less it's current form. This is scary:

Yeah me too. One due today, and the others in the next two weeks. Still the current levy is still a bitch if you have 3 cars. Load it onto a yearly licensing fee and fuel tax. Add penalties to drivers that receive serious traffic offences as they are more likely to cause accidents. It's not quite that simple, but that could be the basis for a review.

Here's the scoop The reasoning at the end for why I should pay 3 levies as I have 3 cars is a crock. Total bollocks.

Thanks Ron, Mike, Cam. All valuable input. Ron I agree totally with your reasoning, but will have to do some more research before I fully understand the methodology. Sorry about the variable voltage semantics..... Will have to look into the TPS vs RPM differential more closely as basically what it would be reacting to is engine load, although you would still want a max RPM where the SC is always engaged so if you floor it during a high-speed cruise scenario, it doesn't kick in at the high revs - it would have already engaged at safe RPM. I don't think I want to get into a software-activated solution for now. Want to keep it under budget and simple. So the solution will have to be something already discussed here or a derivative of. My main goal is to reduce the motor and SC loads. The SC currently runs all the time, except with the ignition Off, Acc, or cranking. My information is that this is a great way to overheat the SC and eventually kill it, and my loss of boost at higher revs could point to heat being an issue. So the game plan is for now to turn the SC off at idle. I could do this with just a TPS feed, but that would also cut it out on engine braking which as earlier explained isn't good if I then reapply the gas and it re-engages at high RPM. So, if I can devise the system to work so it switches off at say closed throttle provided the RPM < say 1000rpm criteria is fulfilled, then I can use that to get the electronics side working under the current tune. Then head back to the dyno, change the RPM and TPS presets, and then retune.

^^^^That's the who-dickey I was thinking of. Will go the TPS route. Just have to work out what sort of output I can get from an engine speed sensor. Still not sure if I can take the output from 1 TPS and split it without affecting what the ECU sees.

Back on topic. Repost, but who cares, Snijers is the man...