bravo

box punishing ROFLMAO!

I'm pricing up a shipping container because the sheds are full. Note plural on the sheds (6). Says it all really. And I have very little "junk" too. Most of it is good cond. sorted and labelled bits. (and/or whole cars - 2x Daihatsu Ruggers, a Landrover, 2x e30's, an Mr2, and Ford Courier, plus as I share sheds with the old man, 1x Jeep, 1x Volkswagen Bettle (for sale), 2x vans, 1x mitsi L200, 1x Toyota Landcruiser, another e30 cabby, a Datsun Cherry, and a Toyota Corolla) On that note, anyone know where I can get a good price on 2x excellent nick 20ft containers, preferrably high cube, and MUST be water proof? And anyone want a Volkswagen Beetle?? Needs to be revinned as rego lapsed, but price would reflect this. Mechanically perfect - starts, runs and drives like a swiss watch....

That would defeat the purpose. If the closest possible ground point is the battery - use it.

Ground should go to bare metal chassis/body point, not directly to negative terminal on the battery. Positive is fine direct to battery. Check the ground is good by disconnecting the positive battery terminal from the battery so the car is totally dead. Disconnect the earth lead from the amp, but leave it attached to the car. Measure the resistance between the amp end of the lead and the negative battery terminal with your multimeter set at 200OHM scale. You should get less than 0.5OHM if the ground is good. Also, if th enoise is present when testing the amp as described in the link I posted, , check that the speaker terminals, and link wires if speakers are 2 or 3-way, are not touching the car body or speaker chassis as this creates an earth loop. The link doesn't mention this possibility. Check speaker wires for breaks or contact with the car body where they pass over or through body panels. If the headunit is at fault you may have blown the fusable links on the RCA's - did you plug them in while he headunit and/or amp was turned on? You should only pug RCA's in with everything turned off. EDIT: I should mention, that if you are using large guage wire and the negative wire isn't anywhere your RCA cables, then you can go directly to the battery. The reason is that the car's chassis usually has less resistance then the wire, so creates a more effective ground. This is not always the case, but generally is.

Read this

Not sure what one the above is, but certain parts of that image look photochopped, but I could be wrong. The 401 in Canada:

Josh, mostly its fuh raze. I was generalising to explain the popularity. Of course there are exceptions. Just like massive spoilers on street vehicles are usually fuh raze, but there are plenty of out and out motorsport cars with huge spoilers, and the odd street car that hits the track at speeds high enough to actually make it worth while. Don't take my comments to mean that EVERY car running stretch is posing. Besides, I love it, and when I find the right set of 16's for the e30 will be running stretch, posing or not.

In response, I think it can be pretty much summed up by my earlier reply. Dish became very popular. The wider the rim, the more dish, but if your rims go too wide, your tyres stick out past the guard, even with a certain amount of flaring and rolling. Many jurisdictions (nz included) prohibit the tyre tread from protruding past the guards, but its OK if the sidewalls and rims do. So guys who wanted to "show off" with the widest wheels would stretch the tyres to get around the laws. As these cars were generally highly modified cars in top condition, the natural trend is to copy for no other reason than to look the same. Couple that with a few drifters doing it for the above reasons, and half the car-modifying world follows suit. Sure there are other possible explanations, but this is the most likely one to explain the high popularity of the trend.

Hah starting to sound like a 4x4 forum. Beadlockers, tubes, [and running 3PSI]. Stretch is definitely for looks mainly. It's just fuh raze. Some had semi-legit reasons for doing it - ie wide wheels with tread still within the guards to comply with local laws - but again, the only reason was to run super-wide wheels for the look. Others have just copied the stretch as it looks cool. I love it. Others hate it. That's the whole point.

Welcome. Nice choice of ride. There is one other member I can think of with an e63, and a number with e24's. I'm sure there are a few guys on here who'd love to check yours out if you ever get the chance to make it along to one of our meets.

Stupid offers removed. Stop trashing Shanes For Sale thread. You're not being funny. Shane, you need to put up a price. Ask anywhere for $400-800 for the motor, and $250-500 for the box. You decide how good condition it is and how long you want to wait for it to sell.

Who are you after?

Pinned. Nice write-up.

Had a great time. I'm no purist and was nice and drunk, but sounded mint centimetres from the stage. Would have stayed longer, but made the Denny's call at 4am, and after that didn't have the buzz on to go back so went home around 4.30am. Awesome night.

Save up. Do it once do it right. Speaking from personal experience here. It's so worth getting the right shocks/springs. Definitely do the suspension first - as Mike said, large wheels on stock ride height looks like arse. Lowered on stock rims can be pulled off. 17's can work (I have them), but I would definitely prefer a really sick set of 16's than 17's.

I'd rock some. 8" rims with HEAPS of side wall. Use coloured rubber for rainbow spokes! I think the prototype is designed that way to showcase the technology and prove they are really airless. I think you'll find any production units will get thin sidewalls to make them look more like traditional tyres. Valveless, puncture-resistant tyres - excellent. I wonder if they could do an off-road version that you can "let the pressure down". Not sure if this would even be possible with these.

Sounds as though you only have the +12V wire connected, and not the ACC +12v feed. That is why it "turns on" when you press eject - most players will eject a disc when they are turned off with only the 12v feed attached. The unit won't turn on until you also connect the acc feed. (yellow wire usually). You should have the black (sometimes brown) wire to a permanent earth. The red wire to a fused permanent 12v feed, and the yellow wire to a switched feed that comes on with the vehicle ignition. If you want to test the unit you could temporarily hook both the red and yellow to the permanent feed and it should stay on all the time, but this is not how it was designed to operate.

You can say what you like. Ignorance isn't a defence. The more believable your ignorance, however, the more likely the cop will give you another chance. Most people know when you get personalised plates you hand in your old ones.

I'm with FMG which won't help you as they don't cover urban areas AFAIK. If you're both over 25, I can't see why it's a problem. Talk to Swan and insure your racecar - they have a good rep for insuring motorsport vehicles, then add the others once you're a customer. I've heard they have excellent rates, pay out on claims, and even offer track day cover for a wee bit extra.

Listening to it now. Prefer the older tracks to the newer ones though. Have more of an "NZ" sound to them.

ASB VISA's rewards points program is good if you use the card alot. It easily covers both my rewards program fee and the card fee, and then enough points to buy a box of beer a month at Woolworths (you can redeem the points at Woolworths by using the rewards card just like another credit card). Really easy. I found VISA Gold suited me better as I didn't need 120 days of travel insurance, 90 is enough, and the lower fees mean more free beer. As I pay off the entire balance each month it's interest free, and no transaction fees, the ability to purchase goods online, and the ability to use it like an overdraft if I really need it is great. You can buy almost anything with VISA these days. If you are doing alot of flying I could see the value of the Global Plus Airpoints scheme over the rewards scheme, although, as I said the ability to use rewards to pay the card fees means the card costs nothing to have.

No they are two separate things. If you read the "get you lights right" leaflet I mentioned before you would know this.

Lots of conjecture about what's legal and what's not. The lighting rules are clear. Visit the ltsa website and look at the "getting your lights right" factsheet. Tells you all you need to know about foglight operation and aiming rules. As far as using them when it's not foggy - the rules are clear here also. About 3 years ago the cops did a blitz fining anyone driving with them on during clear conditions. Once they've gotten bored of chasing europlates I bet they'll go back onto foglights again.

do a search for 2.7 build here. There's a couple of threads where Gus and I have posted up the entire 2.7 article from Performance BMW mag complete with run downs on the various blocks, heads, cranks, rods and pistons that can be used.

Hey Sgt. Rick Stewart - Where's your seatbelt????