bravo

lol @ Josh.

Yeah mate, I here ya! Kerry also knows the certifier well if he used the guy I think he did. On the one hand if I hadn't asked he may not have made me, on the other I didn't want to make any assumptions. Like I said its no real biggie. The biggest piss off is going to be tracking down a thin combi spanner to remove the front seats and lifting the carpet to bolt it in.

I know a member on here who did this, had two cars the same type and colour, but different years - had 2 sets of plates, and you can get a replacement rego sticker for free. If he wanted a WOF he could go in with the real plates as being rego'd is not a WOF requirement - the other way around in fact. Very dodgy.

I am NZ distibutor of aforementioned magazine. First copy only $15 plus freight! Comes with everything you need to get started. Fist copy comes with cool "brembo" brake caliper covers for that performance look without the performance price. PM me t o subscribe.

Moved to correct section.

The fact I have vented discs all round means that as long as they pass the braking test they're OK. Braking test is 3 hard stops from 100km/h within 2 mins without sign of deterioration. Should be fine? Will test myself before I go for cert, and if borderline might throw some decent pads in. Race series guys get along OK pushing they're brakes harder than that. Drove it for the first time at 1am this morning (was supposed to finish at 10pm, but ran into a few hiccups, and I had decided I was driving it last night no matter what lol!) I was very tired and it was dark, and first run so didn't push it hard (didn't want this post to be a " so I got the car going and promptly put it in a ditch") Went fairly well. Can hear the SC until the exhaust noise takes over, and the BOV is nicely muted. You can hear it in the car, but doubt you'd hear much from outside. Pulls like f**k in 1st and 2nd, but on the roads I was on and the speed I was happy doing it was hard to say how much better 3rd and 4th were. I do know on the straight before my driveway I made an easy 10-15km/h more at a mailbox I use as a yard stick. Some wrinkles to iron out, and a few things to do and It'll be done. So a few more beers yet, but not too many. Beer Count: 74

Certifier recommends it. See my other thread. If certifier recommends it, I do it - only want to get inspected for cert once as I have to take a day off work and drive 80km to his workshop.

Welcome - at least you're man enough to admit it when its your fault. Can only get better from here right?

Want a fairly small one. Currently using a modified Power steering reservoir and want something slightly more compact.

Not on mine. I have total 2x u-joints. 1 on rear of rear half. 1 on rear of front half. Hanger bearing pushes on to front half. Rear half slides onto spline of front half. Like this one: Which is why it's so important to get the two halves phased right as it is possible to have the u-joints out of phase. Not like this one where phasing of u-joints is fixed as they are both on the same part of the shaft as you describe.: or this one lol:

Toni Marsh wtf???!! I've seen better looking hookers that probably take less drugs.

If the Rear UJ fails = no prob, shaft would drag, and the rear subframe is a loop anyway. If the front UJ fails, the rear half of the UJ is attached to the shaft that goes through the centre bearing (another loop) and the front half of the shaft will just bonce around inside the area with the heat sheilding until you let off the throttle and select neutral. If the guibo fails, then you need a safety loop there. Although I think its all overkill.

Hah exactly. I suspect if I hadnt' asked he would have let it go. He said I could argue that the increase isn't significant thus doesn't need it, but that the brake test threshold is 20% more, so I should do it. Since I plan to improve things another 10-20% over the next little while I thought it prudent to do it. (I want 150rwkw as it's such a nice number, currently should be 134rwkw according to dyno) Plus I am able to employ the services of a very friendly engineer to do all my work for beers. Sometimes I need to watch him as this kind of payment makes him want to cut corners, but as long as I do this I get a good job for pittance. So in that regard there's no reason why I shouldn't do it. Can't wait for the work day to finish so I can bolt a few things up and go for a cane.

I was actually meaning Glen with the turboed e30, but thanks for your input anyway. I've been talking to the certifier. he says that as long as it's not likely to come through the floor, then 360 is not required, and that single bolts either side are enough, and just enough either side to allow strong bolting through. Just thought someone else might have done something nice and tidy.

Been told I need one. I'm thinking a 360° loop of steel welded to a flat piece across the bottom of the trans tunnel? Been told 50x5 MSF anf M10 G8.8 bolts through floor with washers. How many bolts? 2? 4? How far either side of trans tunnel? Centre bearing should function as safety loop should front universal go, and rear subframe if rear should go. So this is just in case my guibo explodes lol. Overkill I know for this amount of power, but rules are rules. Thanks

Thanks - wouldn't reach the head - definitely was a backup[ to the generator - found the clean bit on the old generator it came off, and almost certain I actually fitted it a couple of years ago as said. So last night I bolted up d-shaft, heat shield and exhaust, and did some tidying of the wiring under the dash so the interior is all back together, fitted my new shifter boot (thanks Nathan B.), and gave it another run with exhaust fitted so I could fill and bleed power steering. Need to give it a shakedown run to blow some cobwebs. To do: Buy exhaust gasket (leaks where bolts to manifold) Buy nylock nuts for engine and gearbox mounts as per LVV manual Weld reinforcing bar in front of airfilter to replace removed metal Paint all bare metal edges and install grommet strip Find out about driveshaft loop as per LVV manual - anyone know what is required ? Flush coolant Finish tidying up engine bay Buy oil catch can and fit Refit body panels Do a skid Obtain cert Have mtech II front repainted (again). Beer Count: 67

ROFL! Priceless.

Comedy gold.

That flywheel is sex!

And at ET40 they'd need spacers.

Write-up of actual car Some of you will have seen this either driving around, or at Taupo or Puke. Best vid till last - if you only want to watch one, this is the one:

Second vid: (Oh and they are road-legal in nz! Not sure if this one has been vinned yet or not) xtr2_P1020619.mov

Don't know alot about it. Hayabusa power, goes like stink. Bought it in France and shipped it over. Video is from the test drive in France Awesome! Hint: best vid 3 posts down. xtr2_P1020619.mov

Haha - so their postal service is faster than their communications - NO WONDER things get lost in the post. By the time they track it down it's been and gone days ago. Good news though - would have been a nice surprise/pressie!

Its the circuit breaker for the elec windows. They are mostly faulty. If you play with it, it will eventually pop right up with a red band showing around the base, and none of your electric windows work. I jumpered mine as occasionally someone would play with it and then my windows wouldn't work until I fiddled with it to get it down again. And yes, the other, smaller one isolates the rear windows.