bravo

I started to watch it, but after a few minutes I realised I don't really need to have that kind of thing in my head. I'm involved with volunteer rescue and we occaisionally have to deal with injured people and corpses, and I realised I don't really need to see any more. What I saw was an older man lying in the bush being bashed with a solid object inside a bag until his skull fractured, and then a few mins of film showing him still alive, but his body going into shock. I didn't watch the rest.

Yeah, but it's not Ashkan after the covers, but BEEMIR/Josh, and I can't remember whether his car is auto or manual.

I think it's too steep, but only based on what I know a 325i manual with tech I cabby went for, and the price of other 325i manual cabbies. But apart from the tech I I don't know what condition the others were in as I didn't drive them so its partially academic.

Manual or auto? I have a gas pedal, plus auto brake pedal.

Possible vacuum leak. Check all hoses etc around intake manifold and throttle body, esp the large rubber intake boot. If its not that, at least that'll eliminate that as an option. Then check fuel. Maybe ICV is supplying the extra you need when its cold, but its leaning out once it warms up and the ICV shuts off. I'm taking a stab in the dark though.

Withdrawn. Got the skill saw out and chopped 300mm off the end of my current box. Was restricted to how small I could go as I had mounted the sub smack in the middle, but got the box down to total displacement of 64L. As there was some empty space behind the box I'd left for another amp, I probably gain about 55L of boot space. Net enclosure size is 49.5L. Still bigger than it needs to be, but it is a cheapish sub, so needs a bigger box to get a decent result. Thats a few boxes of beer on the next camping trip. Weight is still an issue, but must have lost 6-7 kg??? maybe. (no scales). Still going vented as too big for sealed. Graphed the new box design and I had to raise the tuning frequency slightly, which means it drops out earlier (-3db @ 34Hz vs 33Hz for the old box,), and the SPL is slightly lower below 50Hz. Will test it tomorrow after a trip down the road to buy a new vent the right size.

+1 for stance. The whole point of lowering for aesthetics is stance. People get caught up in trying to be lowest, and forget why cars look good lowered in the first place.

+1 Hot rims.

That looks hot. Perfect height I reckon in that colour with those wheels.

If you guys want to talk about the car Sam posted, take it out of Brooks thread. Start a new thread or use the PM function.

Moved to Trademe Discussions. Please keep these types of threads there.

Yeah, I can build my own, but I'm lazy, and want something lighter than what I have right now. Would be keen to find out what vol. yours is mike - total vol - I'll deduct woofer displacement. My current setup I built to fit snug in the boot, and was a false wall with the box behind so the boot was smaller, but it looked as thought the sub was mounted in the firewall. Weighs a ton though and I've pulled it out because I'm sick of lugging it around. My system goes pretty hard without it, but I miss the sub. hence the reason to go to a smaller sealed box. Sort of a compromise between sound performance and weight aka vehicle performance. The current box is around 110L! 58L of enclosure+3.3L of sub, plus 24L of rectangular port +25L of 16mm MDF. MASSIVE! but it goes hard and sounds sweet considering its a cheap sub. I aim to halve the size, drop half the weight (by going smaller and sealed or using plastic port, not mdf port) and end up with not too much difference in sound.

Beer taster Astronaut etc are no good - too much study, too much proceedures and protocols. Its not as if they give you the keys to the shuttle or jet and say " go for a spin bro - pulls pretty hard around 300,000 rpm" Seriously though, once my mortgages are paid I'm gonna quit my job, borrow some cash, buy a yacht charter and do that till I'm too old to deal with clients any more, and then I'll just go sailing.

To fit e30 boot. I want a 35L sealed box, but could run ported with this sub in a box around 47L, so any box from 30L to 50L will do as if its above 40L I'll just cut a hole in it and shove a port in. So that also means if you have a ported box around 40-50L that's OK too, port diameter should be around 75-80mm, and I'll just put one the right length in. @75mm I need a 150mm long port. I don't are if it comes with terminals or is carpeted. I can tidy that up myself. Important things are size, good construction, fairly low weight if possible, and cheap. Thanks.

email [email protected] They are nz distributors for Powerflex urethane bushes which are excellent quality. Prices a year ago were: PFF5-301 Front Control Arm bushes ( 2 per car ) $48.00 + GST each x 2 = $96.00 + GST = $108.00 PFF5-302-19 Front sway bar bushes ( 2 per car ) $39.00 + GST each x 2 = $78.00 + GST = $87.75 PFR5-305 Rear subframe (2 per car ) $81.00 + GST each x 2 = $162.00 + GST = $182.25 PFR5-306 Rear Control Arm ( 4 per car- 2 x inner 2 x outer) $57.00 + GST each x 4 = $228.00 + GST = $256.50 PFR5-308-12 Rear sway bar ( 2 per car ) $39.00 + GST each x 2 = $78.00 + GST = $87.50 PFR5-300 Diff ( 1 per car ) $60.00 + GST = $67.50 So a bit of a mixed bag there as to who is cheapest.

are those 18's?

Take it to an auto sparky. They have testing gear which will tell you. You can take a guess and replace the alternator, but the only way to know for sure is to test it.

They're not really going to be stiffer than his current shocks though.

Are the wires on the ignition barrel returns?

1 billion chinese?

He'll need more than 5 to catch up with the wild card leader, Clare from Taiwan.

Don't forget a fuse. We don't want your bimmer catching fire.

What they are saying is you need to buy a standard automotive relay (I'd have thought they'd supply one the useless beggars). You then connect the pins as shown. The relay will be what's called "normally closed" ie when the relay makes a circuit when power isn't connected to the "control pins" So when the car is off power flowss from the positive wire, through the relay, through the led, and back to ground. When the car is turned on, power flows through the accessory circuit which the relay is now connected to, so the relay opens and the circuit with the led is now broken and it stops flashing. They seem to have missed a positive feed though. Need constant +12v to pin 30. If you want, just put positve to +12v always on (like the power source for your radio, or battery positve) with a fuse - probably 2.5A or less for a small wire to an LED - and a switch, and then negative goes to any baremetal on the car connected to the chassis (there are grounding nuts all over the show under the dash) or an existing ground wire, and just operate it manually. But if you want it to be auto you'll need to learn a bit about relays etc. Or do it like Glenn suggests - always on.

I've read about it. Is it a fully functional OS, or just a trial version for the beta? I won't be swapping from XP pro on any of my machines, but would love to try it on a spare box I have.

I know its hard to think fast when it happens, but did you try jumping on the clutch???