yng_750

look up what part number i takes on the quaife website, i believe they come with good dimensions etc. but my guess would be no

Still available. Bellicose where do you live might be able to arrange something for ya.

C191 PLUG i had very similar issues with a m20b25, turned out it was the big round plug dead center under the intake manifold was faulty. Happens to heaps of them, often you can see corrosion on the contacts though in my case it looked good but was poked. it has about 7 wires which run to the water temp sensors and the injectors. When one of the ground wires fail the front or rear 3 injectors lose power. i tested by taking the intake off and removing the fuel rail. i hooked the injectors back up and turned the car over, front three injectors squirted fuel about 30cm into the air, rear three shot it a couple of meters high, i cut the plug out and crimped in bullet terminals, fixed the issue. I had another engine that was running well but the plug looked average so i cut it out and used terminals again, made a big difference to fuel economy as all injectors were firing the same. So in my opinion worth fixing for the $10 cost of terminals as problem or not its probably on its way out here is the pic of where to find it, http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT...oFilo_VYJ2i_7_L and what the loom looks like when removed from the car. http://pixelpusherz.net/E30/harness1.JPG easier to do with the intake off but can be done with the intake in place which means you dont have to replace gaskets etc. Would highly recommend using proper ratcheting crimping pliers if doing it with the intake still on.

i believe brent did some engine maintanance on the e39 v8 he put in the 3 series. mainly throttle body gaskets and plenum gasket etc. have a read of his thread but it seemed to make a difference for him

bump

awesome wheels. dont take a cent less than $2k. if you cant get that here you would on ebay.com.au

dont suppose the acceleration scared the sh*t out of the last driver?

there are plenty of people with the machines around to make up custom braided hoses. At worst you may have to take the old hose off and let them give it a measure up. should be standard fittings either end. shouldn't cost much around $60 would be pretty fair i would think. also supercharger.....?

only things i can think of is a proper brake fluid flush, making sure theres no old crap fluid in the ABS unit. especially important if it hasnt been changed for a while. If you want to go anal, testing the wheel speed sensors and clearance to the hubs. Couldnt hurt to re grease the CV joints, cheaper than wearing them out and new greases take better shock loads. investgate whether there are wearale parts in the shifter mechinism, also goes for clutch system. And a great upgrade for feel is braided brake lines (also clutch if its hydraulic) Engine wise, i would consider getting the vanos sytem crack tested. Also cheap insurance chuck a set of big end bearings in it.

be keen to see what you find as far as new heater buttons go. mine are cracking on temp controls. looked online and seems you can only buy a whole new face plate rather than just buttons. that included aftermarket cheap crap. most retail around $110 USD brent may be able to shed light on if we can just get buttons

yea ive heard good stuff about liquid copper. i doubt its the head as it had been crack tested etc. ive ordered a water pump so hopefully thats what it is

Update. Car has been sitting since just after i got the warrent on it (about 6 weeks). i have done about 1000kms since the head was replaced with no issue. Took it for a quick drive yesterday and all was well but when i got home and let it idle it was a little rough. I let it cool and restarted it with cap open. it appears to be bubbling when i raise the revs a little but it stops when radiator is under a little pressure. Two possibilities are, i was sold a head that wasnt as good as i was told. (looked very good) or the waterpump had a small leak on the center shaft so it may be sucking air in when theres no pressure. I wll be having a better look later this week but if anyone wants to take it off my hands in the mean time i wont say no. $1000 AIWI without the wheels $1300 AIWI with the wheels worst case get a new head, best case its an easy fix and a warrented and registered car for $1k

I find it useless how people wait years for the housing prices to come down before they buy. i was wasting nearly 15K a year in rent that now goes on the mortgage. unless the housing price is going to come down massively theres no point waiting. i paid around 280k for 170m2 on 750m2 section in taupo. relatively new house very tidy nice part of town. had 16K as deposit, mostly from kiwisaver. 1 year later the house has a valuation of 315K which means im give or take at 20% equity already. simple math really. im paying rates and insurance and the two flatmates cover the mortgage. it all comes down to having the commitment to put needs ahead of the wants. if you cant, stay renting or live with mum and dad

if you go to a place that knows bmw they will be able to tell you more reliably whether it needs a service or a recon. sounds like just a service though marshall transmissions are good

18x8 i believe. not sure of offset. genuine. They were on my e39 but i am really surprised at how good they look on an e34.

bump. open to offers

my car has a repair invoice in the glovebox that shows the last owner paid 5.5K for a repair on the box in my 540i. So probably cant hurt to get it reconned, better drive and more reliable. do some research and make sure they are experienced with bmws. do it once do it right i guess

what on earth is damaged that would require 96 rivets?

yes obviously the person looking at overhauling the entire suspension is in it for a brand name, and yes i could go OEM. but if i was willing to waste thousands of dollars doing buying overpriced sh*t i would have bought a more expensive bmw. I know OEM is (sometimes) better but would i rather buy an aftermarket suspension part for $30 per arm and risk possibly doing it twice in a few years time or just go out and pay $350 per arm from the dealership. seems like a no brainer. Do you know what tyres i bought? no, so dont comment. Do you know what i can and do for my car? obviously not, so dont comment. I have replaced all the cooling system parts, CCV valve, wheel bearings, headlights, window regulators, rocker cover gaskets, coils, Cam position sensor etc etc All stunning examples of how OEM is top quality as you say. So please re read the original post and if you dont have constructive feedback please keep your honda forum comments to yourself.

yea the main reason i want to do them is i know the alignment changes quite abit under power and braking. $500 is worth it to save the $1000 of tyres i just put on it. Ive never been overly impressed by the handling of this car as it always felt to understeer orientated and wallowey, also very little steering feel when cornering hard, though i attribute much of that to poor bush performance

Probably not going to keep the car long term, maybe another year. I realise that OEM quality is better but even on pelican parts the same list of parts tops $2300 excluding freight. I might investigate warrenty and reviews but it was always going to be. this Vs nothing Vs a couple of bushs done only. Either way will wait for the e34 to sell before going any further.

for sale. 89 525i. Auto Dark Blue Brand new vtnz wof and reg. No comments or repairs listed on WOF Just had a new headgasket as the old one was leaking oil. New headbolts, intake gaskets etc Runs well. shifts smoothly Comes on 18" bmw wheels that look the part. AC Schnitzer bodykit, bumper lips, archs, side skirts. Rides nicely. downsides. Paint needs a good polish and a touch up in a couple of spots. (arches faded and has had a small repair under rear tailight Front seats very average. No stereo. Tyres passed wof but are getting inside lip wear so may need replacing soon. otherwise a good run around car of start of a project. Looking for $2000 ONO AIWI 02102745013 will post pics very soon will try to get some better pics, unfortunately i was held back by late work days and a tree that dirties the car daily haha ****************See my later post for update on car*************

So i have an e39 540i that need a little suspension work doing. Front control arm bushing are soft which is causing a brake shimmy. Also notice that there is alot of toe in on the rear wheels and it had a wheel alignment 18 months ago. So im looking at this ebay Firstly is this worth it or are they going to be crap quality. ive bought single items similar before and found them to be as good as oem. Finally is it worth doing subframe and diff bushings or are these not a hugely wearable item.

so his first video convinced everyone to dance like a retard. will this one promote people to push girls over and trip them up? stay classy korea