318Touring

Gasket/sealant, unfortunately BMW haven't been making long lasting products for a while now.

I wish it was only condensation! This F types have been known to fail WOF because water was dripping and running down the inside of the headlights. Actually, when mine went through its WOF last month, the tester said it would've failed if the leak had been just slightly worse than it was.

I do have this coming up as the next one to tackle, will need to either get a smoke machine or create one myself. This is an example, not exactly the same car but same hassle:

https://redriven.com/cheat-sheets/used-bmw-3-series-f30-review/

I have always supplied my own parts. Either OE or OEM, and I don't go for the cheapest options. For example I bought Bosch (activated carbon) still a 'Premium' not the most expensive nor the cheapest. https://cars245.com/en/catalog/order-price-desc/?q=1987435503 For the BMW, I use Autostop in Jville and Conti down in Kaiwharawhara Boxster: Autostop and Armstrong Porsche 911: Autostop for WOF only, and Armstrong Porsche MINI: Autostop for WOF only and Conti Since I can get a 5 litre bottle of Mobil1 0 W40, Porsche A40 spec for $90 from SCA, that makes a lot of sense. BMW and MINI's oil sits around $50-60 from SCA or Repco (Castrol LL-01 & LL-04). Additionally, Autostop source their Euro parts of an NZ distributor which doesn't supply OE parts so I'd rather supply my own parts. Conti wasn't happy at the beginning but hey, I can always take my business elsewhere and buy other car brand(s) ..... Re, if my own supplied part is somehow defective, taking a ganble here, but I usually go for OE parts as much as possible.

Take the dealer to Motor Vehicle Dispute Tribunal

Hi all, looking for recommendation which PDR company to use, in the Wellington area. There are a few out there but since thge last time I needed one was almost 15 years ago, things would have changed by now. Would be good to hear your experience and recommendation. Prefer a mobile one and can work from my garage. I've only got one dent to take out at the rear quarter panel of the Boxster. Thanks

59900 kms, 2013, NZ new In actual fact, while buttoning up everything, something else was leaking coolant. There was an O ring under the turbo that also leaked. I suspect it's the age of the car where everything starts to leak. Annoyingly, there was no indication that anything was wrong apart from the one "engine temp' message that flashed, and the fact that the reservoir level was down below the Min level. The engine's response itself was restricted by the ECU, but there was no code, no warning light, nothing, nada. But without any code you would think that the car had always been that 'slow'. This is my son's car and he's just got back from finishing his year-long TI at another city so I'd just been able to drive his car. Don't know how long this had been an issue.

Update: went to Conti BMW, bought the part, showed it to the local garage, confirmed it's the correct one - going in for replacement tomorrow.

Understandable, especially the value of these cars drop by 50% every 3 years, and before long the cost of one repair is about 10% of the value of the car. Unfortunate, as I think these are good cars and I'd rather drive a 6-7 year old BMW rather than a 2-3 year old Mazda.

Thanks for clarifying this, in realoem it is shown as #1 - which I didn't spot until just now. There isn't anything else at the back of the engine that's called 'housing' and can leak, is it? Unfortunately the job sheet isn't very clear on whether the cost is part+labour or parts only. "approx $805 for replacement housing and seals. Labour content is approximate as access to housing will require some disassembly of other engine components" Hence I wanted to know which part will cost $800 that can leak. Based on the information you have helpfully provided, the costs is a total of labour+parts and not parts only.

N13 Could be the housing where numbers 5 and 7 are located? That seems to be the only candidate for leaking. I can't find anything else relating to this. They said it's at the back of the engine and costs around $800 to replace using aftermarket parts. I'm very tempted to get BMW to quote the work after telling them what's leaking.

Just got back from the indy who advised that the "Coolant outlet housing" is leaking and will need to be replaced. This is at the back of the engine. Unfortunately they are going to source aftermarket parts. Anyone knows what exactly this entails so I can go to BMW and get the parts myself? The indy can then fit it for me.

Hah, at last. I went to take a look. Front bumper has different shade to the rest of the car. Front radiators half-blocked by rotten leaves. Interior hasn't been looked after so it was dirty-brown. Discs badly scored all around and they didn't want to negotiate on the price.

Price is roughly at the right level for the mileage. There is.a NZ new 987.1 with 90kms in Welly for $29k, been sitting for months now. Unless been refreshed, suspension will likely due soon (any clonking noise?), as well as reservoir bottle (they crack from the ongoing cycle of hot and cold). GLWS, I think I have it in my watchlist, and good on you for putting the wheel cap(s) the right way!