_ethrty-Andy_

yep the M20G240 d/s is longer than the G260 one. try Ray @ HellBM

in that case BNT is cheap, and if you know a NZBMWCC member they will have discount on top of that. EuroItalian is a Forum sponsor and they are also probably pretty good, I havent brought brakes stuff from Gav tho

maybe they are billies for the E46. they arent, or weren't, for the E30 setup i had. much thinner shafts etc than billys

get e34 540i calipers (second hand), and 540i pads and disks. bolt on and a noticable improvement over the 520i bits. flush lines and use new fluid while you are at it.

correct. was playing around this afternoon on it. decided it HAS to be the ground cable as its the common wire. grounded else where, wire brushed etc. then decided to get rid of it and put a new negative cable in to the same grounding point and it works fine now. I suspect the neg cable i had was oxidised or otherwise and was faulty, it has been sitting in the shed for a few moons in a bag of various audio cables, mind you same as the one i swapped in. Bass drop whaaatttt

not really. I saved money by driving to new plymouth and back twice and paying him. mind you i dont ahve any kids or wife etc so have all the time in the world and enjoy driving, auckland to NP wouldnt be any further than welly to NP i would have thought

I got a 316i Manual too, mines not a project though. Very economical if you never put your foot down in it. yours looks in good nick!

hmm supply is definately ok. its connected to the battery which is a strong unit. I havent been using the car much lately while i had the mercedes and i could go for a week ago without starting it and it would fire up first time every time. Its GOT to be a grounding issue i think. I havent put it to the usual place i choose on E30s i will do this this afternoon and see what happenes. i cant understand while its the normal 12.4V when the car is off though, 12.4V all the time or 4.6V all the time is much easier to diagnose!

reset error codes and adaption values in the ECU in the E30 316i this morning, now idles perfectly at 700rpm rather than surging between 400 and 1600. been chasing that one for ages! going to try it on a friends moms E46 Ti and figure out an issue with that car this afternoon

FB back I will extend the payment window to tonight for tomorrow morning as there a few that have ordered and havent paid. this WILL NOT be further extended as i dont want to hold those that paid early up. if anyone else wants to get in on this, im not going to be around my computer this afternoon/evening so if you want them PM me your order and then figure out cost and my bank account from the first post of this thread. cheers

sweet, got it sorted! cheers!!!

they have to be hubcentric BMW ones or you wont pass WOF/cert

hahahaha no comment

yep all my connections are good. changed my grounding point in the boot, and then redid the fuse holder incase they were dodgy, but seem fine. reckon its safe to go from 12V to the remote? i thought about that but im hesitant to as the remote is only a signal wire, next to no current is supposed to be able to go into it from my understanding. amp might be 5 years old but dont really want to blow her up ha. would indicate if its the headunit to blame though wouldnt it...

thanks mate

need one for a BMW related task tomorrow, i had one aside at work but someone must have chucked it in the cable bin on friday cleanup. can anyone help? need it to connect my carsoft scanner to my laptop, my serial-USB thing is temperemental and doesnt give all the results anyway

sweet. iirc its two to remove the whole latch, im guessing there is a further two? cheers for the reply

so car works fine as does the stereo etc etc. put in wiring for an amp and sub into the boot. ive wired up a sub and amp many times before, but this time i have an issue, which cant be the wiring so im stumped. amp and sub do not work. across the amp im getting 12.4V or so when the car is 100% off, and 0V across the remote to negative terminal. sweet BUT when the car is in ACC or ON mode, the voltage drops/rises to 4.6V 4.7V across both above mentioned points, untill i turn the car back off. Okay so i thought the amp might be stuffed, maybe the voltage regulator in it. It was a Sony 350W 2/1 channel i brought maybe 5 years ago, and havent used it for 2 or so. So i swap in a Kenwood 4/3 channel i KNOW works because it was working in the Mercedes before i pulled it out on Tuesday. Exact same results except the voltage is 8.xV instead of 4.6-4.7V. swapped the Sony back in and back to 4.6V. Anyone have any ideas?

ive changed a latch hundreds of time before and dealt with the different key, but how hard is it to swap the barrel so it matches my ignition and door key? can it even be done? when you pull the handle out it locks there when the glove box is open or shut making it unopenable untill you put the key in. like the handle actually chills diagonal pointing out. this cannot be avoided in any key position. if anyone knows how to fix that so i dont have to get a new latch it would be good please! have hardly any E30 spares at my abode these days.

if you insist using those wheels, get the 20mm ones.

ohhhh thats challenge talk

avoid 320i of any chassis, especially the autos

Second hand market for e30s had turned to sh*t so if you are doing it just for that, don't bother, you'll make more money buying it cheap and parting it. Maybe. In auto, 2k is top dollar, rebuilt engine whatever, NZera don't think rationally when it comes to cars with high mileage, and anything over 200 is toast. Could be 3k or so in manual.

the plate being SLxxxx would suggest its NZ New?

lol i sold it to three islanders from porirua. its probably already f**ked now.