_ethrty-Andy_

Skids or gtfo

Sweet have already priced it with Gavin sounds like a nobrainer! Will post back either way next week with result

so the car is not warming up ever. i replaced the gauge sender first because i thought its probably that which is the issue. i tested the wire by grounding it and then applying 12V fromt he battery and gauge movs as its supposed to. put the engine all back together and still minimal gauge movement. the needle is about 1mm off the bottom of the scale when the car is totally off, and goes about a mm past the lowest line when "hot". only time i have EVER seen it go further is when it was idling in my friends driveway charging her battery for about 5 minutes, it was just past the max-blue mark then. i dont take the car for long drives often, but on the weekend drove from Karori to my house (about 50km or so) so should definately hot. I decided i would check the temperature using my multimeter which has a thermister attachment so immediately after getting home i took the radiator cap off and apart from a slight hiss of pressure no difference to if the car had sat for 3 days etc. multimeter read 55degrees celcius after it adjusted. I didnt believe it so boiled the kettle with the thermistor inside and seems to be fairly accurate! I also drove to see belicose and back in this car a few months back with a trailer on the back, nonstop drive, was at his for about 10 minutes then all the way back. NEVER left the blue. coolant mix is 30/70 and havent had to top up water since. water pump looks reletively new and belts need replacing but shouldnt cause this issue anyway. radiator seems to be working fine. thought i wonder if the coolant lines in the block are clogged so maybe the block is overheating, but there is no loss of power when ready, compression is remarkably very close to when the engine was new etc. am i right in thinking this is the thermostat thats jammed open? surely it would still eventually get hot coolant though? better running too cold than too hot i guess..... but still!

after the narrow grill versions if you can. E34 have two grill types as you may be aware. might get some wide grill versions too for a rainy day if they price is right.

can you get E34 ones?

think that was a Honda Legend from memory, green coloured too

you have to have then or you won't get a WOF, simple as that. Are then an aftermarket wheel or from another manufacturer e.g. Audi? if aftermarket, talk to their dealer in NZ and see if they can help you source hub centric rings, just dont tell them of course you already have the rims.

Mark 1Rotty used to have some, maybe will sell them now he has the euro NZ reps i do the group buys on?

definately not one of my mates! only a couple of them are into their cars, but they have same style as me only japanese, function over form! you've seen my cars brett no ricey bling on those!

ha no problem any time. look good!

ahh yip didnt reread the thread again

well all the roundels are replaced with ///M's and ACS ones so just in case you dont know what they are.

works for me :dunno:

my 525iT i used to have, gone back to the guy i bought it off now, was calypso when it left the factory. not so much these days. Could equally be applied to mine being not yet street legal, wasnt the intention though!

you need to short it out though. i had to when i manual converted my E30 320i back in the day.

turns out there are quite a few calypso E34 tourings around! i know of three and a half now!

Also seen this on siones wedding 2 lol i have a feeling i seen it before? Yes i stopped the dvd and figure out its a uk/nz spec 325i OY2898 maybe on bbs rims. I need to get out more.

just an idea as i dont really know the engine, but did you reset the ECU codes after you did the vanos seals? prehaps the ECU adapted to the old busted ones? older engines like M50 M40 M20 did that obviously no vanos involved but adapted to other issues etc

some people dont post everything on bimmersport

coming from a length of life point of view (i work in the ewaste/remarketing industry), the Toshibas are better than the Acers.. we get a lot of late model Acers maybe 2 years old that are already broken for one reason or another (hardware faults not neglect-type issues). You can't really go past Toshiba, would be what i would have if i wasnt an Apple guy. Dell isn't bad these last 6 7 years either, they have got rid of thier quality control issues they used to have. Skip anything Sony Viao or Asus. the former is expensive to get parts for if needed, and the Asus laptops are just crap all round. HP arent bad, but quality has gone downhill in the last 5 years from what we see. As far as specs you need, i cant really comment as i have macs which although still i5 i7 processors etc, totally different OS demands etc. the last windows latop i brought was a Dell back when vista had just come out, probably what converted me to apple lol. Hope this helps

everyone agrees their coffee is sh*t lol

Looks good! A manual conversion will improve your fuel economy a LOT over the automatic too, worth while just for that if you drive around in it alot. Pm Brent he has a blue 316i/5 hes parting that manual setup will work for this car. Has a for sale thread.

I think you need to get some better friends Brent!

BNT had universal ones about 6 weeks ago when we fitted lowering springs to a mates e30 managed to damage the boots. Iirc about $7 a piece with bmwccnz discount

Fags. Meanwhile, red e30 320i convertable bbs manual doing laps in wellington and pulled over, who was it