Ahmedsinc

As above, looking for an Oceania C23 tuner unit please. In the process of trying to graft a NZ business tape tuner in place of the jap spec C23 but so far only limited functionality. Also keeping eyes open for a C43 or BM53/54. Thanks

Black on black leather with M-Pars. I hate you, Jooles!!!!

Kudos to Hotwire & Tim, think I'm getting somewhere now. On a parallel topic, is there a way to adapt the Jap phone system to accommodate an iPhone?

Yup, he's the one that's supplied me with the info so far. Bloody nice guy & knows his stuff. Hopefully he won't mind more questions, I'm hoping not to appear to be taking advantage of his knowledge, considering it's how he makes his living. Frustrating cos I think I'm close to sorting it all out!

Holy crap, cabling heaven! Interesting side note for Mac users, the site won't run on Safari Now, to try finding the right diagram

Only guy I've seen that regards a Bobcat as a workshop tool! So much awesome!

I'm in the process of changing the jap spec tuner unit in our E39 for the radio / tape indash unit from the parts car. Following the advice of someone that knows way more than me I've got it to the point where I've swapped the main antenna amplifier on the passenger C pillar for the NZ new unit. Obviously reception isn't great but at least I'm getting local stations. The second antenna amp on the parts car is also a part of the EWS, though it seems to me like it need a 12v+ source to boost the incoming signal. Original unit was round pin, new is flat pin so the old soldering iron has had a workout this weekend! Now my question is - which wire is which? Red / black & white / yellow. +v - gnd??? Bit weird as all gnd wires are usually brown, that I've seen so far. The first amp sends a coax line to the head unit, and a second coax link to #2 amp.Both amps run a single wire to the antenna in the rear screen, that circuit is connected. Does the second amp need a 12v source or am I on the wrong track here? I'd have quite happily used the original cabling but the NZ new & Jap cars terminate their cables differently Also, I'm trying to figure out how to get the 16:9 display to show what frequency the new unit is tuned to. As the donor car used an MID I suspect there is a connection I've overlooked here. Only wire I haven't used on the new unit is grey/red, illumination dim circuit (no relevant cable to splice to in loom). Bit of a stretch but I'm hoping someone can cast a bit more light on the situation. Tia!

Mmm, did wonder if it was starting to push it. Bit of a bummer as the CH is one if my favourite wheels on the E36. Ah well, cheers Josh

Win!

H&R + Koni. 'Nuff said

Anyone know if it's possible to redrill a set of BBS CH from 112 to 120 pattern? And idea of cost? Ta

Sweet, means I won't have to get an M50 one for my swap, thanks. Yeah, it's a bit of a losing battle really

Doesn't need to look flash If you ever get round to it, I'd be keen to see what's gone on in there!

Ha, looks like it's got a brighter future than the one I sold

Glad to see you've finally pulled the dust cover off this little monster, man! Still getting my head around the 10l/100km economy (driven nicely, I assume) given it's delivering 300hp at the treads Pics of the engine bay please!

Could be interested depending on price

Ohhh, I see it now. Couldn't see past the drool inducing machines on the foreground

Which sump did you use? 35hp is a healthy jump, you must be very pleased

Sky?? What sky??

There goes my weekend!

Lol, gotta be quick. As the ads already gone, what was it?

V8 / FI M5x project or strip it for parts. Would be good to see some competition for Glenn though!

Thought so. OP, you could go for a 5 stud conversion too. Would open up your options greatly!

Take a look through Rays posts, I'm pretty sure he took a few photos of the remains of an E46 M3 on knock-off aftermarket wheels. Patience is the key, I scored my wheels for less than 400 slides including a nearly new pair of Dunlops on the rear

Unless you plan on tracking your car regularly I wouldn't bother with coilovers. Add certification cost to the struts & springs price and you've spent the same as a new set of Bilsteins. Plus the E36 was never designed to take spring load in the rear arch so you're opening yourself up to more problems there if running a true coilover setup in the rear. Do all four at the same time unless you have proof that the rears are reasonably new. Sucks having to get an alignment twice in 6 months! Just had a look on Pelican Parts, full set of Bilstein heavy duty shocks is $1120 shipped. You'll probably need to factor in import duty of 15% (?) so call it $1200 round. You could find cheaper locally but the last I saw the going rate for fronts alone was $475 ea. Lesser shocks can be had for much cheaper but I've found you get what you pay for.